|Pattern Description: |
The fabulous Grainline Archer button-down shirt. It's not a fitted garment, so no darts but has collar stand, patch pockets, button plackets, yoke, cuffs, and sleeve plackets to contend with. I cut view A.
I cut a size 12, and graded to a 14 for the hips.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions on the pattern are great, and I also recommend the online sew-along, as there are additional instructions and videos there. I think this would be a great first button-down/collared shirt for someone because of the quality of the instructions.
I don't recommend this pattern for someone who is beginning sewing, because the details like sharp corners, clean straight topstitching, and seam finishing are very important to have down before you start this shirt. However, if you've never done a collar stand before, don't let that stop you.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like how the sleeves are set in before stitching the side seam. I like the collar construction, and yoke instructions (I followed the burrito approach shown in the second sewalong video).
For the bottom hem, I followed the instructions except that I did a machine-rolled hem at 1/4" because I find this gives you a very clean & exact hemline. The difference is that there are 3 rounds of stitching to complete the hem:
1. Sew a guideline at 1/4" on your hem (nothing folded over yet)
2. Trim the edge if needed, fold along the line of stitching and press
3. Stitch the folded seam down at 1/4"
4. Fold up once more, and press.
5. Stitch the final hemline with an edgestitch
I had some difficulty with the cuff construction at the edges on the underside - I think due to sewing with such a lofty fabric. I had to rip out and re-sew parts of both cuffs to get the inner edges caught in my understitching correctly. In the end, I did a wide topstitching, and did stitch-in-the-ditch for a few inches at the outer edges to catch the inside. I still had to hand-sew one of them down, as it had exposed seams. Ordinarily, this would be ok, but on this shirt I'll be wearing the cuffs turned up often, so it needs to look good.
I used a thick cotton flannel purchased at The Textile in Greenfield, MA. The colors are great, and it got even softer and thicker after pre-washing the fabric. This is the first garment in flannel I have made that is not pajamas. I don't think it will be the last - it's so comfortable that I didn't want to take it off to finish while trying on during the construction process.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
My only alteration for this first shirt was to increase one size at the hip.
For my next attempt I will make a couple of alterations:
1. Shorten the sleeve by 3/4" (I have monkey arms ladies, so if I'm shortening you should consider it too)
2. Decrease the cuff circumference
3. I may go down a size, I'm not sure.
4. Add 3/4" to the bodice length.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This shirt seems to be an addiction for all who have sewn it - I'm no different. I already have plans to sew this up in chambray and also silk crepe.
More photos, construction details on my blog
This is a great shirt, everyone is sewing it, and SO SHOULD YOU!!!