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Simplicity: 2057 (Misses coat or jacket with collar and sleeve variations) thumbsup - Type:Coat/Jacket    printable version
Viewed 281 times 9 more reviews
Review rated Helpful by 1 people    Very Helpful by 6 people   
Reviewed by:LM2HYD
photo
Friend of PR
About LM2HYDstar
VA USA
Member since: 3/7/11
Reviews written: 69
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 13 people
patterns reviewed: 68
Bio: more...
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Posted on:10/15/13 3:17 PM
Last Updated:10/15/13 3:22 PM
Project Photo:Simplicity: 2057 by LM2HYD

Simplicity: 2057 by LM2HYD  
Pattern Photo:Simplicity 2057
Simplicity Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
See other patterns in this category: Coat/Jacket    
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Fabric:Wool Coating  [See other projects in this fabric]
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Pattern Description:
Misses Coat/Jacket with collar and sleeve variations. A Project Runway Pattern.

I made the shorter jacket, with the rounded collar, no pocket tabs or epaulets or the back yoke.

Pattern Sizing:
4-20 I made a 16 at the shoulder, graded to an 18 at the waist and graded to a 20 at the hip

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes!

Front View
Back View

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I used a combination of the pattern instructions and several tailoring books. I used custom tailoring techniques to make this coat including a huge amount of hand sewing, so I needed additional instructional aides rather than just the included instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the princess seaming and the defined waistline. I also liked the set in sleeves.

I don't like the yardage charts for the Project Runway patterns. For this coat, the yardage for the sleeves was separated out. Seriously, all coats have sleeves!! For some unknown reason, they suggest 1/8 yard more fabric for the pleated sleeves than for the plain sleeves. Any difference in those two versions would alter the width of fabric used,not the length. As for the yardages for the coat itself, they are generous. I made the short jacket (and I am short too) and I used about 2-1/4 yards of 60" fabric.

Fabric Used:
A 50/50 Wool/Poly coating blend. The lining was Ambience Bemberg Rayon and I interlined the coat for warmth using sateen backed flannel. (I thought I had ordered satin backed flannel to use for both lining and warmth, but I didn't read carefully and it was actually sateen backed flannel, which wouldn't be slippery enough to use as the lining. Whoops! Well, at least I learned how to interline a coat!)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made 2 muslins before cutting into my fabric.

Here are my fit changes:

--1" FBA (on princess seams!)
--Made the shoulders narrower by 1/2"
--Raised the waistline by 1" (lengthened the bottom pieces 1" to compensate)
--Raised the pockets (I have short arms)
--Redrafted the collar to be narrower
--Widened the sleeve by 3". My tailoring books suggested 2-3" of ease at the bicep and the size 16 sleeve barely gave me any ease!

Here are my tailoring/assembly changes:

--I Fully interfaced the front and back of the coat using sew-in hair canvas
--Interfaced the sleeve hem using sew-in hair canvas
--Pad-stitched the collar and steamed it into place
--Interlined the entire coat with sateen backed flannel. I used the lining pieces for patterns.
--Added piping along the waistband, along the collar and along the facing/lining edge
--Added an interior welt pocket to the lining
--Made horizontal buttonholes instead of vertical (and wish I hadn't)

For more on all of these changes, and my commentary on vertical vs horizontal buttonholes for this coat, see my Blog

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would sew this again, and I would recommend the pattern. I'd definitely suggest making a muslin to get the best fit possible.

Conclusion: This was a long learning process for me. I put in over 54 hours of time starting from cutting the fabric to sewing on the buttons. I had wanted to tailor a coat for a while now and I vowed not to take any shortcuts with it, and I am glad I didn't. I am very happy with the fit and can attribute it to forcing (truly forcing) myself to take the time and do multiple muslins. Buttonholes aside, I am very happy with my coat and can't wait for the weather to cool off so I can wear it out!

For more on the entire process of my coat making, please see my BLOG
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15 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
NEMDF said...
I have been watching you work on this, following your blog. The coat turned out to be VERY nice. The color is quite flattering on you. Super job!
10/15/13 4:34 PM
madbadger said...
Beautiful - I'd like to make a coat & had narrowed down to this and a couple of other patterns. I love the simplicity of your design, without all the embelleshmints and will likely now use this pattern. Very nice job!
10/15/13 4:48 PM
madbadger said...
Oh, wanted to add a note of thanks for the warning on the horizontal buttonholes. I probably would've done the same thing!!!
10/15/13 5:13 PM
Mary Nanna said...
It's lovely - the waist band in particular is very flattering. I admire all the work you put into tailoring this garment. A coat to treasure!
10/15/13 7:26 PM
BlossomKyle said...
GREAT JOB! Wow about the 54 hours!! All that hard work paid off! Enjoy your new coat!
10/15/13 9:01 PM
MaryDB said...
Beautiful coat that fits you perfectly, and looks great on you. Nice work. Thanks for the review.
10/15/13 9:16 PM
msschiel said...
This is a fantastic coat! At least you have a perfect fit.
10/15/13 9:30 PM
lamstu said...
This looks like a beautifully made and well-fitted coat. Congratulations on all your hard work! Enjoy it. For a long time - I still have the hand-tailored CK coat I made 40 years ago.
10/16/13 8:09 AM
margy.64 said...
Very flattering coat that fits you beautifully.
10/16/13 8:14 AM
cocosloft said...
So pretty, love the color and fabric. Great review, you clearly put a lot of time into the fit and construction of your coat, and it fits you very well. Nice work!
10/16/13 9:34 AM
Jstarr4250 said...
All your hard work is very evident. Wonderful looking coat.
10/16/13 10:49 AM
carolynw said...
Your 52 hours resulted in a wonderful and perfect fit coat. I love the colour. Didn't notice anything about your buttonholes until you brought it up - doubt anyone will. Congratulations on your staying wiht it (I doubt I could hve) and on this beautiful coat
10/16/13 11:21 AM
AndreaSews said...
Beautiful coat!
10/16/13 2:59 PM
STARG said...
Great coat. Hand tailoring takes a long time but is well worth it and the benefits can be seen in your coat. Good job.
10/16/13 3:20 PM
wingamajig said...
This is an amazing coat, and very flattering on you. The fit is excellent on the shoulders & bodice, nice job on the alterations.
10/17/13 11:06 AM
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