|Pattern Description: |
Misses' knit dress has elastic waist with crossover, tank, or racerback bodice. Choice of crossover or straight skirt.
I used the crossover bodice and the straight skirt.
XS-XXL. I cut a S at the shoulders and bust, transitioning to an M at the waist and hips. Fitting is not crucial with this dress as it is fairly voluminous and the elastic waist is adjusted to fit.
A polyester knit purchased from Kashi at Metro Textiles in April 2010 for $6/yd.
Total cost, including pattern: about $14.
Time to Make:
This is a pretty quick make, about 5 hours.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the gathered shoulder, it gives nice volume and drape.
I dislike the shallow crossover of the bodice.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope?
Yes, although I used the plain skirt rather than the crossover skirt as illustrated for the crossover bodice.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I did not use them.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
-Many of the previous reviewers noted that the front bodice gapes; almost all of them had to wear a camisole underneath. So I took a fairly aggressive amount out of the crossover on the front bodice to prevent that--you can see the three tucks I took to shorten the crossover.
While I don't have gaping and don't need a camisole, I ended up with a similar problem as with Vogue 8870 (my high-low hem birthday dress) where the bodice is short at center front and blouses a lot at the side seams. That goes more with the style of this dress so I'm fine with it, though it benefits greatly from (of course!) a sash.
-This dress's star feature is the shoulder gather. It gives some shoulder coverage without a sleeve and allows for plenty of volume in the bodice to get the grecian drape.
To make the gather I sewed the shoulder seam with the sewing machine rather than the serger, and then pressed the seam open. I machine-basted long gathering stitches starting about two inches from the already finished neckline and ending about 1/2 inch from where the sleeve hem would be stitched down. I pulled the gathering stitches tight, and from the right side stitched in the ditch, catching clear elastic underneath to keep the gathers in place. Then I removed the gathering stitches and hemmed the sleeve. The gathers could have ended further from the sleeve hem, as it does pull up a bit.
I think I just don't care for crossover styles where the crossover is shallow, ending just a few inches from center front. A crossover that goes all the way to the side seam is easier to adjust for a small bust without distortion and more flattering and wearable for me, not to mention more secure. I'm going to have to stay away from these styles in the future.
That said, I do like this dress despite the weirdness with the crossover bodice. The pattern also has a plain tank bodice, a racerback tank bodice, and a crossover skirt option, so it's quite versatile.
I timed the sewing of this dress poorly. I wore it on the day the photos were taken, but I won't get to wear it again until late next Spring when it is warm again! We've had some crisp days in DC though luckily it hasn't gotten truly cold for good yet, but this is just too summery to get away with in mid-October.
All photos are here and the blog post is here.