|Pattern Description: (from pattern envelope) "Very loose-fitting, unlined duster has optional shoulder pads, bias, two-piece sleeves with stitched hem, turn-back cuff, side slits, bias placket and snap closing." My notes: Surprise! A pattern described as "very loose-fitting" by Vogue is actually more fitted than baggy! With fish-eye darts in the back & bust darts, there is some waist definition, and the bias sleeves give a more fitted sleeve than one might normally expect from Sandra Betzina (I actually widened the sleeves a bit)|
Pattern Sizing: MANY sizes! A to J; Bust of 32" to 55", waist from 26.5" to 50.5" I cut a B at the shoulders (and still narrowed them by 1"), expanding to a C at waist & hips. I did NOT do my usual sloping shoulder adjustment - Betzina builds in a certain amount of narrow & sloping shoulder into her patterns, designing for the more "mature" figure
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The overall shape looks very much the same. I made a number of styling changes, in the pocket and with silk-screening. I admit that the pattern envelope did not appeal to me at all, but after seeing shams' 'Geisha Face' version I jumped on this pattern & couldn't wait to make my own. My version was, admittedly, heavily influenced by hers, especially since we had the same take on what we liked & didn't like about the finishing instructions.
Were the instructions easy to follow? This is (surprising to me, since I have quite a few SB patterns) the first pattern I've actually made of hers. Her instructions are rather delightfully thorough (even though I chose not to use a number of her suggestions), and she gives a ton of hints that can be helpful for many levels of experience. Thumbs up on that!
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the simplicity of the design - for a light-weight coat for cool summer or warm fall evenings, the collarless, barely closed design with side slits is perfect. The bias sleeves are also shaped nicely. I didn't understand why the plact is placed on the bias, so I didn't do it. I also didn't care for her instructions on the facing construction, which I also didn't follow.
Fabric Used: Linen, with silk-screening touches using Marcy Tilton's designs.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Narrowed the shoulders (starting with size B)
Expanded to size C at waist
Shortened the sleeves and the overall length by about 3"
Widened the sleeves (easy to do with the two-piece sleeves)
Extended the side slit
I like her pocket design, but I ended up using only one pocket, with a silk-screened piece stitched on to the pocket piece.
I finished the facing pieces with bias edging, and used Hong Kong finishes on the sleeve seams, for a finished look inside (since the coat is unlined)
Inside Front View
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will most likely sew this again! It's such a great warmish-weather cover-up; I think it would be great in the right cotton or even a loosely woven wool.
Conclusion: A simple but versatile pattern! For more pictures and construction details, please visit my blog post