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Make Bra: DL01 (MakeBra 3 piece foam lined bra) - Type:Lingerie
Review submitted in Lingerie Challenge Contest 2013 Contest    printable version
Viewed 313 times 3 more reviews
Review rated Very Helpful by 15 people   
Reviewed by:Sigrid.
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Friend of PR
About Sigrid.starstarstarstar
NETHERLANDS
Member since: 11/14/06
Reviews written: 144
Sewing skills:Advanced
Favored by: 132 people
patterns reviewed: 139
Bio: more...
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Posted on:10/29/13 4:47 PM
Last Updated:10/29/13 5:07 PM
Project Photo:Make Bra: DL01 by Sigrid.

Make Bra: DL01 by Sigrid.  Make Bra: DL01 by Sigrid.  
Pattern Photo:

Pattern Info provided by Sigrid.

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I've reviewed this pattern before but this time I made it so different that I think it needed a separate review. It also is my entry in the lingerie challenge contest. The techniques used are different from what I made till now. It's not my tnt pattern that I've used often before, this is quite new terrain for me too.

Pattern Description
A three part cup, side boning and underwires.

Pattern Sizing
A lot of different (European) sizes, ranging from A to G cup. The site provides an international conversion chart for the sizes.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Not really, mostly because I used lace instead of lycra covering the cup.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I did not use them. As I said in my previous review the pdf instructions are an order of construction and more info can be found on the website.
Since my last review I have followed a workshop at Kantje Boord (the famous lingerie fabric and notions store in Amsterdam) and learned a few tips and trics working with padding that I will share below.

Likes/dislikes
I like the style and recently I've sewn a few bra's using preformed cups. This is a nice alternative for the preformed cups.

Fabric Used
Lycra, padding, embroidered mesh lace with a little stretch.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made
I wanted to use lace for this bra and use the scallop edge too. This meant that I had to change the upper line of the cups to a straight line, instead of the original (beautiful) curves of the pattern.
Here you can see which lines I've changed. The line on the side cup (bottom right) is to get the right shape there, based on my tnt pattern.

For the elastic I planned 'normal' lingerie elastic, not foldover elastic (except for the top of the cup). Therefor I added a seam allowance to the side cup.

A last alteration was to take away a bit of the band under the cups. It was a bit too wide to my liking, I prefer to have just a little over the width of the wire chanelling.

Construction
The embroidered mesh lace I was using is very see-through and changes with the color used underneath. I used a fierce pink and wanted to use it over the cups and the side/back panes. Which meant that the cups had to be covered with the same color as the band first! Padding is only available in a limited range of colors, so I used the following technique to cover it with the lycra:

  1. cut a piece of padding sufficiently large for all 6 pieces of the cup (remember to have a mirror image)
  2. cut a piece of vliesofix (bondaweb) which has adhesive on both sides
  3. iron it to the padding with the paper side up
  4. when cool peel off the paper
  5. place lycra on top of the adhesive and iron with press cloth to the padding. The end result is padding with a top layer of lycra in the color you want
  6. Now the pieces can be cut from the padding and sewn together with a large zigzag stitch. Make sure the ends are securely stitched and don't come apart.
  7. When the cup is stitched, thin the seam allowances on all seams. Put the point of the scissor inbetween the layers of the padding and cut. This will make the seam allowances thinner, creating less bulk and on the top of the cup it will be more easy to add the foldover elastic.
  8. Foldover elastic is stitched over the top of the cup to finish it.

Next step is sewing the lace parts and sew it over the padding cups.
The padding looks a bit straight now and it's pressed more round using a mould (a styropor ball in my case), a pressing cloth and a bit or ironing spray. Press without steam andform the cup more round.
Here you can see the difference to the shape, it gets better after completing.

The band, closing, shoulder straps etc. were all sewn in a regular way for sewing bra's.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will sew it again, I'm happy with the result. I do recommend to try it if you are looking for a padded style. My next step will be making the cups from a non-stretch lace, without padding. It should/could work too.

Conclusion
Nice pattern with a lot of possibilities for variation.

Side view
On me
Another side view
Inside of cup
Strap detail

Just to show how different this mesh fabric is on another color: on blue and on pink


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17 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
USMCMom said...
Wow, Sigrid! Beautiful bra, and such a wonderful, informative review. Thank you
10/29/13 5:45 PM
Quickie said...
Beautiful bra. I love those vibrant colours
10/29/13 5:53 PM
ArtAttack said...
Gorgeous, Sigrid! I will make a note to keep this review for future reference. I'd like to make this one again but need to narrow the bridge and see if I can perfect that step. Good luck in the contest! Beautiful entry!
10/29/13 6:18 PM
Judy Kski said...
Thanks for the detailed review on a very beautiful bra.
10/29/13 6:35 PM
lacroise1 said...
That is really pretty! I will have to look into getting this pattern. Thanks for the great review
10/29/13 7:52 PM
Sarsez said...
gorgeous bra and thank you so much for pasing on those helpful tips for working with padding. Much easy than wrestling with a tonne of pins!
10/29/13 9:20 PM
Annette Wright said...
I can only hope to aspire to make a bra as lovely as yours someday. I reread your tutorial all the time. Thanks so much. This one is gorgeous.
10/29/13 10:18 PM
JDpenelope said...
Your bra is gorgeous AND it fits! Great review, too. Someone's review, maybe one of yours, on this site led me to order a Makebra kit. I am not interested in padding, but a woman who fitted me a long time ago said that the molded bras don't need to add to your bustline; on the contrary, they merely provide better support. I wonder if you agree.
10/29/13 10:34 PM
Sigrid. said...
Thank you ladies for your kind comments. @JDpenelope: I agree with this. I'm a size 75F, which means I don't want more bustline than I have by nature, the molded bra's give support and feel well. The way I treated them with the vliesofix also makes the padding having less "give", adding to the support.
10/30/13 6:00 AM
annakeeton said...
Such a beautiful bra. Your skills with making them are amazing.
10/30/13 6:38 AM
julie w said...
Beautiful a d thank you for your detailed construction steps
10/30/13 7:11 AM
JDpenelope said...
Sigrid Thanks for the reply. Good to know you don't think the molding needs to add to your bustline. I woke up wondering if we have any round balls in the right size, to help mold the bra into the correct shape. You use some terms that are new to me: 1) vliesofix (bondaweb) and also 2) styropor ball but I get your drift. I will refer to your reviews of the Makebra when I get enough gumption to try it probably after making a few other attempts first with other patterns. The Makebra kits are NOT inexpensive!
10/30/13 8:09 AM
Margaret said...
Very beautiful bra and thanks for all the details on working with the different layers.
10/30/13 11:15 AM
treefrog said...
Beautiful bra, Sigrid! Thanks again for sharing your construction tips and tricks. I think this method would be perfect for making a sports bra. I'm amazed at how different the mesh looks with the different coloured underlays.
10/30/13 4:58 PM
clothingengineer said...
Gorgeous as usual Sigrid!
11/1/13 8:41 AM
ryan's mom said...
Gorgeous bra, Sigrid! I love the tip on use a fusible web type of product as I have been using basting spray before sewing. I think fusible web would be a better option. Also, loved the tip for molding the cup over some type of dome-shaped surface. Very helpful!
11/2/13 9:14 AM
Sue Parrott said...
Wow, this is a boutique worthy bra! So gorgeous!
1/26/14 9:32 AM
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