Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|Make Bra: DL01 (MakeBra 3 piece foam lined bra) - Type:Lingerie|
Review submitted in Lingerie Challenge Contest 2013 Contest
|Viewed 313 times
||3 more reviews|
Review rated Very Helpful
by 15 people
|About Sigrid. |
|Member since: 11/14/06 |
|Reviews written: 144|
|Favored by: 132 people|
|patterns reviewed: 139|
|Posted on:||10/29/13 4:47 PM |
|Last Updated:||10/29/13 5:07 PM|
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|I've reviewed this pattern before but this time I made it so different that I think it needed a separate review. It also is my entry in the lingerie challenge contest. The techniques used are different from what I made till now. It's not my tnt pattern that I've used often before, this is quite new terrain for me too.|
A three part cup, side boning and underwires.
A lot of different (European) sizes, ranging from A to G cup. The site provides an international conversion chart for the sizes.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Not really, mostly because I used lace instead of lycra covering the cup.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I did not use them. As I said in my previous review the pdf instructions are an order of construction and more info can be found on the website.
Since my last review I have followed a workshop at Kantje Boord (the famous lingerie fabric and notions store in Amsterdam) and learned a few tips and trics working with padding that I will share below.
I like the style and recently I've sewn a few bra's using preformed cups. This is a nice alternative for the preformed cups.
Lycra, padding, embroidered mesh lace with a little stretch.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made
I wanted to use lace for this bra and use the scallop edge too. This meant that I had to change the upper line of the cups to a straight line, instead of the original (beautiful) curves of the pattern.
Here you can see which lines I've changed. The line on the side cup (bottom right) is to get the right shape there, based on my tnt pattern.
For the elastic I planned 'normal' lingerie elastic, not foldover elastic (except for the top of the cup). Therefor I added a seam allowance to the side cup.
A last alteration was to take away a bit of the band under the cups. It was a bit too wide to my liking, I prefer to have just a little over the width of the wire chanelling.
The embroidered mesh lace I was using is very see-through and changes with the color used underneath. I used a fierce pink and wanted to use it over the cups and the side/back panes. Which meant that the cups had to be covered with the same color as the band first! Padding is only available in a limited range of colors, so I used the following technique to cover it with the lycra:
- cut a piece of padding sufficiently large for all 6 pieces of the cup (remember to have a mirror image)
- cut a piece of vliesofix (bondaweb) which has adhesive on both sides
- iron it to the padding with the paper side up
- when cool peel off the paper
- place lycra on top of the adhesive and iron with press cloth to the padding. The end result is padding with a top layer of lycra in the color you want
- Now the pieces can be cut from the padding and sewn together with a large zigzag stitch. Make sure the ends are securely stitched and don't come apart.
- When the cup is stitched, thin the seam allowances on all seams. Put the point of the scissor inbetween the layers of the padding and cut. This will make the seam allowances thinner, creating less bulk and on the top of the cup it will be more easy to add the foldover elastic.
- Foldover elastic is stitched over the top of the cup to finish it.
Next step is sewing the lace parts and sew it over the padding cups.
The padding looks a bit straight now and it's pressed more round using a mould (a styropor ball in my case), a pressing cloth and a bit or ironing spray. Press without steam andform the cup more round.
Here you can see the difference to the shape, it gets better after completing.
The band, closing, shoulder straps etc. were all sewn in a regular way for sewing bra's.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will sew it again, I'm happy with the result. I do recommend to try it if you are looking for a padded style. My next step will be making the cups from a non-stretch lace, without padding. It should/could work too.
Nice pattern with a lot of possibilities for variation.
Another side view
Inside of cup
Just to show how different this mesh fabric is on another color: on blue and on pink
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