|Pattern Description: Lined jacket in two lengths with high round neckline. A, B: short length, has long sleeves and patch pockets. A: purchased ribbon ties and trim. B: purchased trim on outer edges. C: three-quarter length sleeves, mock welt pockets, purchased trim along outer edges of jacket. D: button front, three-quarter length sleeves and mock welt pockets. E: button front, full length sleeves, patch pockets, outer edges trimmed with purchased fold-over braid. D, E: longer length.|
Pattern Sizing: Misses 6-22. I made my standard size 12 and after making and fitting a muslin I took a substantial amount out of the shoulders/upper bust; added 1" to sleeve length; added 1" to biceps; and raised the back neckline 3/4". modified sleeve with vent added
Were the instructions easy to follow? I did not follow the instructions, but made this jacket in a Susan Khalje Class with her help and instructions.
The first thing we did is make a muslin and fit it. After the muslin was fitted and adjusted and properly marked, I was able to use the muslin as my pattern to laid it out on a single layer making sure the plaid matched from side to side and top to bottom. This was a week long class (5 days) and i stayed at a local hotel and did a lot of home/hotel work at night so that I could get as much done as possible in class with Susan's help laying out pattern Each morning when leaving the hotel there was thread and fabric scraps stuck in the carpet everywhere. I wonder what the maid thought. Boucle ravels so much.
After it was cut with a generous 2" seam allowance, I thread traced all stitching lines
The lining was cut using the muslin with boucle attached and the lining being wrong side up, so when it was cut, there would be minimal movement of the pieces when pinning them together to baste and quilted to the boucle every 1" making sure to stay at least 2" away from seam lines. This 2" gave me room for more fitting and also so that I could tuck in the seams before hand sewing them closed.
I then basted the jacket together for another fitting. Once it was fitted nicely, I sewed the jacket together (omitting the sleeves at this point because those needed to be put in after the main jacket was completed fitted so that I could match up the plaid correctly. I also needed to make sure any additional adjustments were noted on my muslin for future use.
The sleeves were then set in by hand using a backstitch on the lower half of the armseye (between notches), and a felled stitched on the stop (sewing on the right side of the fabric easing in the sleeve cap).
The lining was then sewn closed by hand on each seam.
The coat hooks were added to the front placing the first hook at the bust, the second one at the very top, and then dividing that space between the 2 in half for the third hook, and then placing another 2 below the bust hook at the same space as the three above. The hooks go in before the lining is closed so that they can be somewhat hidden in the lining.
The jacket stalled at the trim. The trim must be put on before the lining is sewn closed at the edges. (easier to sew the trim w/o worrying about catching the lining). I couldn't find the trim I had in mind so I settled for grosgrain ribbon and trim . I'm still not very excited about the trim and if I find something better, would gladly re do it! But needed to get it finished so I could move on.
After the trim was put on, the lining and jacket edges were sewn closed and the pockets were cut, trimmed, lined, and sewn onto the jacket by hand. (The pockets needed to go last because of the plaid and their placement.)
I then added a chain for weight at the hem, and buttons
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It was a basic cardigan style jacket and was recommended by Susan Khalje.
Fabric Used: a boucle for the outer fabric and silk charmuese for lining; organza for for stabilizer at shoulder view that was the only interfacing/stabilizer used in entire jacket.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The biggest change to the pattern was to make the 2 piece sleeve into 3 piece and had to redraw the vent
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. This jacket was a lot of work, I learned a lot, and is such a classic. I now have a great fitting pattern and am *almost* ready to tackle another - on my own!
I have since moved the buttons on the pockets to below the trim. After looking at it, it didn't look right; and the buttons, so close to the edge, pulled the pockets down.