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Simplicity: 1736 (Cloche Hat (View E)) thumbsup - Type:Accessories    printable version
Viewed 327 times 4 more reviews
Review rated Helpful by 1 people    Very Helpful by 14 people   
Reviewed by:nicegirl
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About nicegirlstarstarstarstar
DC USA
Member since: 5/10/06
Reviews written: 319
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 308 people
patterns reviewed: 319
Bio: more...
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Posted on:12/3/13 10:15 AM
Project Photo:Simplicity: 1736 by nicegirl

Simplicity: 1736 by nicegirl  Simplicity: 1736 by nicegirl  
Pattern Photo:Simplicity 1736
Simplicity Pattern Info

More Info provided by nicegirl

Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
See other patterns in this category: Accessories    
Available for sale on PR: $16.95 (See envelope) Click to Buy
Current Tags What is a Tag:
Fabric:Wool Woven  [See other projects in this fabric]
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Pattern Description:
Misses' hats in three sizes. The pattern offers 5 hats, including a fedora, a soccer ball pieces hat, a bucket hat, a toque-style hat, and this cloche.

Pattern Sizing:
S (21"/35.5 cm head size); M (22"/56 cm); L (23", 58.5 cm)

I used a small and it fit perfectly, which made me happy as I have a child sized head and feared I would have to grade the pattern.

Fabric Used:
The hat is made of Vera Wang wool purchased from Fabric.com for $1.99/yd several years ago and dyed with Sunshine Orange Rit to get the rust color and lined with tie silk from a FFC bundle purchased many years ago.

Total cost, including pattern and embellishment: Around $7

Time to Make:
This is a fairly simple, quick project. It took me about 2 hours to cut and sew plus more time to embellish.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the shaped seaming on the crown and the 3/4 brim. The pattern is well drafted--all the pieces fit together nicely and easily and it was true to size for my small head.

I am not crazy about the finishing technique presented in the pattern.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope?
Yes, although I topstitched my crown seams rather than piping them.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, they were fine. It uses 3/8" seam allowances (a fact for which you have to dig a bit, which is annoying).

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
-The crown is made of four pieces, and the three seam allowances come together at the sides.  It takes a lot of steaming and pounding to get them flat, but in my wool I was pleased with the effect.  The pattern is recommended for fleece and I think it would be harder to get the seam allowances looking nice, though fleece doesn't ravel so you don't get the bulk from finishing the seam allowances and it can be trimmed very close. I couldn't get the serger into all the seam allowances and had to zigzag.  For the second half I just went straight to zigzag, as it was much easier.

-When I put on the constructed crown to get a preview of what the hat would look like, I was a bit disappointed that the seam lines were lost in my fabric.  The pattern is designed to have the crown seams piped.  I don't know how you handle all that bulk where the seams come together, but I think something has to be done to emphasize those lovely lines.

I used a twin-needle to topstitch the seams with jeans topstitching thread.

-I interfaced the brim for stability and body.  Again, my wool performed beautifully under the iron with crisp corners and nice body.  The pattern does not call for interfacing, but I think even fleece will benefit from it--though you might have to experiment a bit to find an iron setting that fuses the interfacing without melting the fleece.

-As drafted, the pattern is unlined and the raw lower edge between the ends of the brim is meant to be finished with hem tape.  I was not into such an unfinished look, so I lined it with leftover tie silk from lining my jacket.

I constructed a crown of the silk, leaving an opening in one of the seams for turning.  To put it together you layer the right side of the fashion fabric crown to the brim and then sandwich the brim with the right side of the lining.  Stitch all the way around the circle.

-Then turn it right side out through the opening in the lining and close the lining with hand stitching.

It results in a lovely hat both inside and out and really doesn't add much time to the construction.  The hat uses so little fabric it's a nice way to use of scraps of silk too small for anything else.

-For every day wear, the hat as drafted is very cute and actually quite practical for winter as it covers the ears.  But for Tweed Ride, cute and practical are definitely not the values we're going for!

I dug into my millinery stash and came up with orange netting and some feathers, along with a vintage brooch.  I *love* sparkle pins and buy them at just about every antique store I visit.  I just gathered the netting into a semi-circle with hand stitching, and then hand stitched it to the hat, with the edge hidden by the brim.

The feathers I gathered into a bundle and secured with floral tape, then hand stitched the bundle to the hat (again, the join hidden by the brim) and then took a few hand stitches to splay the feathers into the netting the way I wanted them to look.  Up close you can see the stitches, but they disappear at about 12 inches away.  Normally you would use glue for this, but I wanted the embellishment removeable so I could use the components again and have the option of using the hat plain for just a regular winter hat.

-Asymmetry is usually more flattering to my face than symmetry--I'm not sure what that says about me--so I wore the hat with one "side" at the side of my forehead.  Theoretically, it was supposed to swoop down, but in actuality the weight of pin made it sit pretty much straight across my forehead.

Conclusion
My only gripe with this pattern is that the crown is taller than my head, so it is a bit puffy and lumpy rather than totally sleek as a traditional cloche is meant to be. However, it ended up being the perfect crowning glory for my Tweed Ride outfit and I received many compliments on it.  It was one of those simple projects that only takes a few hours but makes a big impact when you wear it.  It also helped that it was toasty warm!

All photos are here and the blog post is here.
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18 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
MinaLMcGrady said...
Nice!
12/3/13 10:19 AM
Melwyk said...
Very nice! Thanks for all the tips on fitting, seaming and lining -- I'll be using your help as I've just bought this pattern. But I bought it because I have a gargantuan head and hats are hard to find big enough for me ;)
12/3/13 10:41 AM
RadarRadiance said...
What a fun review, love your new hat, super cute and stylish on you!
12/3/13 10:49 AM
61sew4fun said...
I have this pattern waiting to be made up. I have the opposite problem as you, a very large skull, so always need to grade up :(. This is so stylish on you and I really am inspired to pull it out today. Lovely linings are really necessary in fashion hats, good call, and removable trim is brilliant to make it versatile. I have an extensive vintage hat collection all of which are too small for me except the whimsies and perch toppers so I am jealous that you could wear my 20's cloches, this fabulous winter white turban and my Caroline Reboux.
12/3/13 11:10 AM
frame said...
Great hat!
12/3/13 11:20 AM
clij said...
Love the style and color of your hat. I have never considered making a hat but your review might change that! Thanks for the lining tips.
12/3/13 11:42 AM
Quickie said...
gorgeous.....!
12/3/13 12:26 PM
AnneM said...
How adorable! I love hats. This is a nice combination of practicality and style. Silk makes a good hat lining since it doesn't flatten the hair as much as other options. Thank you for providing all that pattern information in your review!
12/3/13 1:19 PM
FreyaStark said...
A fine effort, and it looks wonderful.
12/3/13 2:59 PM
Mufffet said...
Oh how cute! That is a scrumptious hat! ;)
12/3/13 3:51 PM
atymonw said...
Very fetching!
12/3/13 6:45 PM
zuzu_petal said...
You had me at Rit dye. I love how you had a plan and it all turned out so great; very inspiring as I have this pattern tucked away. Thanks so much for a fantastic review.
12/3/13 8:32 PM
Dilliander said...
What a gorgeous dye result and a great hat! Enjoy the bike ride event. You look fabulous!
12/4/13 0:07 AM
sergette said...
What a gorgeous hat...and the colors look so good with your coloring. Very comprehensive instructions. Well done!
12/4/13 1:56 AM
marec said...
Ilook forward to your wardrobe for the tweed ride, especially the hat. This hat is so very cute, and your trims are wonderful. Nice!
12/4/13 9:39 AM
Mahogany Stylist said...
Thank you for the very helpful review. The hat is gorgeous.
12/4/13 12:45 PM
SewLibra said...
Great, thorough review and very cute hat!
12/4/13 3:35 PM
bunnypn said...
Fabulous hat and it looks wonderful with your coloring. Beautiful!
12/9/13 4:04 PM
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