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Vogue Patterns: 8430 (MISSES' JACKET) thumbsup - Type:Coat/Jacket    printable version
Viewed 474 times 30 more reviews
Review rated Very Helpful by 21 people   
Reviewed by:jewelea
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About jeweleastar
TX USA
Member since: 10/19/05
Reviews written: 39
Sewing skills:Advanced
Favored by: 20 people
patterns reviewed: 38
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Posted on:12/15/13 3:32 PM
Project Photo:Vogue Patterns: 8430 by jewelea

Vogue Patterns: 8430 by jewelea  
Pattern Photo:Vogue Patterns 8430
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
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There seems to be as many opinions about this pattern as there are body types and style preferences. As for me, I love this little jacket! And I say little, as it's not so big on me, since I used the size small. It is roomy, but not oversized. I actually added to the side seams beginning at the hem, 2 inches on the back and 1 inch at the front, then tapering to nothing toward the armhole. You can see that on my muslin here. Yes, I could have worn it as it, since it isn't meant to be fastened, but when I matched up the center fronts, it was snug around the hips (and, yes, I am the sort of sewer/person for whom the center front must match correctly).

The other change I made was to narrow the back, beginning at the neckline, tapering to nothing at the hem. Once again, you can see it on my muslin. I simply made a dart in the muslin to take in as much as needed, then did the same with the pattern piece when I traced it, truing the neckline and redrawing the straight of grain. It now fits me comfortably and I like the way it looks.

I used some ancient wool jersey in my stash that had a fair number of moth holes in it. Because I had a limited amount of fabric, I felted it only once. After consulting three articles from Threads magazine (#80 "Wool-Jersey 'Cutwork'," #109 "Two Takes on Felting Wool Jersey," and #147 "New Jersey"), I basted my fabric together at both the selvedge and the cut edges, washed it in my washer in hot water with a small amount of detergent, then dried it the dryer at the hottest temp. Even at only one pass, it looks very felted. And the basting of the cut edges kept them from going curly. I also disregarded some other advice to only steam and not actually press the fabric. I wanted the seams nice and flat, so I both steamed and pressed which didn't seem to affect the texture of the fabric.

I was just barely able to cut this jacket out of the shrunken fabric, and did cut the sleeves on the cross-grain, since at least one of the articles said it didn't matter, and I can't see that it has made any difference. I was able to avoid most of the moth holes which ran along the fold, and I dealt with the random ones that remained by simply (and carefully) sewing them closed by hand, working on the wrong side of each piece. The repairs are unnoticeable in the thick, pebbly fabric. Then, because I can't seem to leave something plain, I criss-crossed the fabric with random lines of stitching in three colors of rayon embroidery thread, using a simple two-step stitch.

One refinement I made which was not on the instructions was to sew the shoulder seams to the dot where the fabric pivots upwards into the collar. I then clipped to the dot, turned the collar part of the seam in the other direction and stitched, shown here, so that when the collar is turned back as worn, the seam allowances are hidden underneath the collar, which you can see here.

All of my seam allowances were pressed open, top-stitched and trimmed. (The underarm seam was not pressed open, but it was treated like a flat fell seam and top-stitched.

Several of the previous reviewers have mentioned not liking the longer hem in back. I don't especially like the abrupt, stepped look of it either, but I didn't want to make the back shorter, so I've left it as is. What I would do if I were to make this jacket in the future is to make the fronts the same length as the back at the side seams, then taper to nothing at the front. You can see the change I've made on my pattern piece here. Because of how the jacket falls when it's being worn, the fronts hang down longer than the back at the opening, and viewed from the side, this creates an odd, triangular void on the side that a tapered hem on the fronts would fill in.

I'm thinking about making this again in a polar fleece for which it seems that it would be perfectly suited, although that's not listed in the recommended fabrics. One change I would make in that case would be to the sleeve where there is a triangular piece cut out and the raw edges sewn together to taper the sleeve. This worked beautifully in wool where the fabric above this "dart" can be steamed flat, but in something other than wool, I think it would leave the sleeve with some unwanted baggy fabric there. (I wonder if that could have been part of the problem for reviews who wrote about having an overly-large upper sleeve.) In a non-wool fabric, I would simply taper in the side seams of the sleeve by the amount of the dart. And, I suppose also, to make this a perfect jacket for me, it should have pockets, so I would probably add them to any future rendition.

Read more on my blog, The Diligent Dilettante.
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19 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
Dee2 said...
I love your jacket! The fabric is perfect & the stitching you added really makes it special. I have this pattern & have been in a bit a quandary about making it b/c of problems encountered by other sewists & you have addressed all the issues that were plaguing me! Thanks for a great review.
12/15/13 3:48 PM
eleda said...
Great review & great jacket.
12/15/13 4:31 PM
frame said...
This is a very nice looking jacket. I don't know what a two-step stitch is, though. Perhaps you mention it on your blog. I will go check it out. :)
12/15/13 4:31 PM
jlg said...
I love this!
12/15/13 4:52 PM
carolynw said...
Beautiful jacket - I too love this pattern and have made the back longer and really like that. Thanks for such a helpful review
12/15/13 4:59 PM
MrsCharisma said...
Amazing. From the hole-y fabric to felting to the stitching...this is just fantastic.
12/15/13 6:42 PM
cmcarr said...
This is beautiful.
12/15/13 9:22 PM
SewLibra said...
Wow, nice save on the fabric and it looks fantastic! Love the plum color and the topstitching.
12/16/13 1:06 AM
wendyrb said...
This is a simply thrilling jacket. I love the saga and how you shared it in your review and blog. Funny too. Since you are constitutionally incapable of sewing anything quickly you might want to check out the slow sewing thread for tortoises. Why sew quickly when you can turn out such personal and impeccable work? Thanks for documenting your process in your photos. Helpful.
12/16/13 1:16 AM
Danvillegirl said...
Very nice! Great job working around moth holes and fabric shrinkage!
12/16/13 6:50 AM
Denise L Perry said...
This is a very helpful review and stunning jacket. I may try my hand at it after reading this review. Thank you!
12/16/13 7:15 AM
Rebecca D said...
Simple and elegant. Thanks for the tip on sewing the shoulder and collar seam.
12/16/13 7:23 AM
CissieW said...
What a great jacket! Looks very cozy, too!
12/16/13 7:37 AM
VivianZ said...
I love this jacket and the decorative stitching. I especially like you method with the collar seam. I have also boiled wool, but used a woven and like the result. Yours is an inspiration to try again, especially as i was gifted a lot of wool that I want to use up.
12/16/13 9:27 AM
redside said...
I love your version of this popular jacket. The details make it special.
12/16/13 10:29 AM
rivergum said...
Love your version of this jacket and I am in awe of someone brave enough to felt their own fabric. Fantastic result! Re the pattern, I have made this jacket too, lengthened to a short coat, and I absolutely love wearing it. The width of the sleeves is perfect as far as I am concerned, just right to go over my Lagenlook tops. I have several more pieces of boiled wool and have ben looking around for patterns, but I haven't found any better than this one. The only thing I will change next time is to make the collar wider, and I think your treatment of the shoulder/collar seam is brilliant.
12/16/13 3:04 PM
bunnypn said...
Wonderful. The collar detail is a great improvement and all your "extras" really enhance the design.
12/16/13 4:26 PM
grey ann said...
Love your jacket and the mods you made to improve the fit. But I perused the rest of your photos and was wowed by the dyed and embellished tank tops! I found your blog entry for the fish shirt. Where (month?) can I find more?? Thanks.
12/16/13 6:19 PM
blue mooney said...
Beautiful! Love your simple, sophisticated embellishment, too.
12/17/13 8:00 AM
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