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Pattern Reviews> Vogue Patterns> 8940 (Men's Jacket and Pants)

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Reviewed by:dolcevita

About dolcevitastar
Member since: 11/25/09
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Posted on:2/11/14 1:00 PM
Project Photo:Vogue Patterns: 8940 by dolcevita

Vogue Patterns: 8940 by dolcevita  Vogue Patterns: 8940 by dolcevita  
Pattern Photo:Vogue Patterns 8940
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 4 people   
See other patterns in this category: Mens - Jackets    Mens - Pants    
Available for sale on PR: $30.00 (See envelope) Click to Buy
Current Tags What is a Tag:
Fabric:Moleskin  [See other projects in this fabric]
Pattern Description:
Fitted, tapered, below waist pants have button waistband with binding, carriers, front/side front/back pockets, back yoke, flaps, stitched hem and fly zipper. Phew! I think it's worth pointing out that the waistband is shaped rather than straight.
Pattern Sizing:
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yup. I haven't got my model to wear them as yet, but they look rather like many other pairs of dark trousers on him so I've added photos of the interesting construction details.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Standard trouser instruction but with extras for the binding. Pretty good detail and illustrations.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
They're different! Most men's trousers are very similar. I liked that these are quite smart trousers but with some different and subtle details. For a start, it's not chunky topstitching all over them, but more subtle edgestitching everywhere. I was looking at the difference between lower end RTW moleskins and higher quality Italian moleskin trousers last winter and the Italian ones were by far the better quality and closer to trousers than jeans styling, with very little top stitching.

The back yoke is a very nice detail, particularly the flap pockets that come down from them, again just edgestitched to crisp up the edges but no more. There is also the most delightful little coin pocket at the front that sits on the waistband line. I'll be surprised if my husband even finds it, but I know it's there and I think it's lovely.

Although it adds a lot of extra work, binding most of the raw edges in the business area of the trousers gives a lovely high end finish.

I wasn't so keen on the shaped waistband. I don't think it adds much to the fit given that men tend to be rather less contoured than women in this area, and it also means that you can't use tailoring methods on it, such as shirt gripper and ban rol, which would have completed the high end finish nicely. I will make a straight waistband on these next time so that I can do this.
Fabric Used:
Cotton moleskin in navy, polyester printed lining.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
No design changes on this version. The one thing that I did change was their use of doubled over bias binding for all the seams. Even though I used a fine lining, this would have made each bound seam 6 layers thick - 2 moleskin and 4 from the doubled over bias. It's also really tricky to get a neat seam on a single pass and catch in both edges of double folded bias, so I adapted this. I sewed the bias wrong side down on the side of the seam that would show after pressing open/down. The bias was then pressed towards the edge of the seam allowance and then folded and pressed underneath. It only saved 1 layer of fabric, but it also allowed me to then stitch in the ditch from the 'public' inside to secure it neatly. Because it's bias, there are no concerns about it fraying.

As mentioned above, when I make these again I will use a straight waistband. It can seem more effort to use tailoring methods, but by the time you've messed around with interfacing, binding and the rest, it's no slower, that's for sure.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Definitely and yes, as long as you're prepared to put in a little more effort in the finishing details.
It's a great pattern and the tapered legs are really up to the minute and give a great silhouette for more casual trousers that aren't jeans and aren't chinos.

Available for sale on PR: $30.00 (See envelope)Click to Buy
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6 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
slmstyle said...
Great looking trousers! I love all the attention to detail on this pattern. I have this in my pattern stash and hope to get to it someday soon. Thanks for your detailed review!
2/11/14 1:21 PM
lauraborealis said...
Gasp.... look at those finished seams! Love!
2/11/14 2:17 PM
Clareew said...
Great trousers, I recognised your work from the photo before I saw your name.
2/11/14 2:52 PM
Sigrid. said...
Wow Viv, that's great result. The extra work shows. He will want many more, not what you intended, did you ;)
2/11/14 4:30 PM
Soday said...
Wow, the extra work you put in these trousers makes them wonderful. I don't think I've ever even seen pant seams finished like that before. Good job.
2/11/14 4:35 PM
becca a said...
Thanks for pointing out this pattern--it does have a lot of great details.
2/12/14 10:10 AM
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