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Pattern Reviews> Simplicity> 1805 (Dolman Top)

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Reviewed by:nicegirl

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Posted on:2/27/14 10:23 AM
Project Photo:Simplicity: 1805 by nicegirl

Simplicity: 1805 by nicegirl  Simplicity: 1805 by nicegirl  
Pattern Photo:Simplicity 1805
Simplicity Pattern Info

More Info provided by nicegirl

Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 10 people   
See other patterns in this category: Tops    Plus    
Available for sale on PR: $15.95 (See envelope) Click to Buy
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Fabric:Silk Charmeuse  [See other projects in this fabric]
Pattern Description:
Choice of knit tops with either dolman or raglan sleeve. I made View A with the dolman sleeve.

Pattern Sizing:
XXS-XXL. I cut an XXS at the shoulders, an S at the waist, and an M at the hip, based on my TNT pullover woven top.

Fabric Used:
This pattern is drafted for knits, but has enough ease to be made in a woven.

The muslin is a cotton batiste, purchased for $3/yd on our Pilgrimage to Fabric Mart in November 2012.

The silk is a charmeuse purchased at Paron in NYC last November; it was $15/yd, but with a Groupon I ended up paying an average of $5/yd for several silks.

Total cost, including pattern: About $3 for the muslin and about $5 for the silk top.

Time to Make:
With the muslin, pattern alteration, making silk self bias tape (which took over an hour on its own) and careful sewing of my silk version, this extremely simple top took me about 10 hours. Maybe not so simple after all?

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the proportions. I dislike the gaping neckline as drafted.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope?
Yes, except I used a woven rather than a knit.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I did not use them.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
-Before cutting, I used my TNT pullover woven top pattern to determine the side seams, add a center back seam, and add darts in the back.

The back neckline was seriously, seriously wide.  Here is my final pattern laid over the drafted pattern.  And keep in mind that my final pattern has a center back seam, so the cut edge of the tissue is not even the seam line!  I normally have to narrow the back neckline of commercial patterns a bit, so I didn't think too much of it other than remarking at how ridiculously wide it was drafted.

-I actually muslined this *gasp.*  Although it is a wearable muslin.  When I sewed up the muslin I realized I should have had an inkling there was something going on with the front neckline too.  There was serious gaping at the front neckline.

As a slapdash fix to the muslin, I took up 2 1/4" inches total in an inverted pleat at the center front neck.  I swear they rotated the bust darts to the neckline but then forgot to remove the excess width.  I don't see how this would work for anybody.

You can see the dramatic change in my final front pattern where I folded out that gape!

-After my muslin, the additional changes I made were to increase the width of the sleeve opening to match my inspiration, cut it to the length of the TNT (the tunic length just doesn't work for me), add a keyhole opening at the center back neck, and correct for sloping shoulders by shaving a slight amount off the shoulder edge from a few inches out from the neckline.  The muslin was sticking up a little at the neck edge of the shoulders.

-When I was done getting all the information I needed from the muslin I chopped the sleeves short.

-For the back keyhole opening on the silk version, I first cut a shaped keyhole and staystitched it.

Before binding the keyhole I made two tiny horizontal darts.  Because of my "forward head" (aka bad posture), I sometimes get gaping at back slit openings and I didn't want that.  I don't know that the darts were totally necessary, but they made me feel better.

Next, I stitched self bias tape on the wrong side, right side of bias tape to wrong side of blouse.

Once the first pass with the bias tape was sewn, I pressed the bias tape over to the right side and pressed under the remaining raw edge.

Next I topstitched that folded under edge in place, and steamed steamed steamed to get it as flat as possible.

Finally I hand tacked the neck edges together to complete the keyhole--this is just decorative, I did not need a slit to get it over my head.  Then I bound the neck in a continuous bias piece.

-Marking the hem on silk is a pain because pin holes.  I have a couple of packs of hair clips for millinery and was like, duh, use clips to mark the hem!  It wasn't quite as easy as using pins, but I got a reasonably straight hem considering I am working with silk charmeuse here.

-I decided to do a regular stitched hem for the sleeves and the lower hem.  I normally do a blind hem or a twin-needle hem, but somehow the stitched hem seemed right for the style.  I think it works.

I was going to rate this "easy and great for beginners," but then I thought about that gaping neckline and realized that might be too discouraging for someone starting out who doesn't know how to fix that sort of problem. So I stuck with highly recommend--which I do, just beware that neckline!

This has been a popular style with designers for several years.  I was specifically inspired by the Derek Lam on the cover of Lucky, but there are plenty more examples out there, like this Michael Kors satin top ($542) and this Rachel Comey from Fall/Winter 2012. It's also out there in a shorter sleeve, like this Reiss silk top. The silhouette seems simple, but if you make it in a high-end fabric it drips luxury.

All the care taken on this simple top was worth it for the end result.  It is as luxe and classy looking as I'd hoped, and looks and feels high end.  I have some dressy events coming up and I feel pretty confident this will be making an appearance at least once in the next couple of weeks.

All photos are here and the blog post is here.
Available for sale on PR: $15.95 (See envelope)Click to Buy
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7 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
frame said...
Great review. I really like the cotton version on you. The center front pleat makes the neckline more of a V. The shorter sleeve length. The colors on you. It really looks nice on you.
2/27/14 10:48 AM
Mufffet said...
Beautiful! Such a sumptuous fabric that silk is and so flattering to your coloring. You look MAHHHvelous...;)
2/27/14 3:07 PM
FreyaStark said...
Very nice. I love that printed fabric.
2/28/14 3:37 AM
Danvillegirl said...
Your reviews are so very helpful. Your perseverance on making the pattern work resulted in a nice looking top.
2/28/14 5:19 AM
Ginger S. said...
Thank you for such a detailed review of the drafting problems. You've created lovely garments, but - WOW- what a lot of work for what I would have thought to be a simple top before reading your review. Thanks!
2/28/14 8:57 AM
threaddy said...
Awesome review. So appreciate all the fitting issues with this pattern.
2/28/14 11:11 AM
Sue Parrott said...
Great review!
2/28/14 11:22 PM
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