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|Reviewed by:||Kay Y|| |
|Posted on:||3/15/14 4:34 PM |
Burda Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Recommend, with Modifications |
|Review Rating:|| Very Helpful by 6 people |
|See other patterns in this category: Coordinates |
|Tip: Precision seamingTip: Sewing a Lined Pocket Flap|
|Pattern Description: This pattern includes a jacket with peplum, narrow skirt and blouse. I made the jacket. |
Pattern Sizing: 10 (36) to 20 (46). I made the size 10.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It does, although I made some key changes.
Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions are perfectly adequate for order of construction. For tailoring techniques, look for a good book. I highly recommend this one.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was looking for a feminine and stylish jacket for some lightweight wool blend fabric in stash. A friend posted on Facebook that she was making this jacket. The fabric made me go and buy the pattern immediately. I even paid full retail price (an unprecedented event).
Fabric Used: Fabric purchased at Couture Elle in Montreal during PR Weekend 2010. Well aged, in other words! It is a crisp and lightweight suiting that is mostly wool, a mottled blue-grey, with a small windowpane check. For lining, I used the remains of the bemberg satin lining from an earlier project.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made a muslin that revealed some changes I needed to make both for style and for fit.
Re style, I immediately decided to moderate the size of the collar and lapels which looked comical on me. I brought the points in by 2cm (.75").
I did not cut the side panel pieces on the bias. There is no reason for this and I didn't want the line of the check to be disturbed.
I also decided to get rid of the exaggerated sleeve cuffs and add a button (shortening the lapels). I lengthened the peplum by lining it to the hem instead of folding up a 4cm hem.
For fit, it's a fairly long list.
1. To adjust for my narrow frame (which seems to be affected by my constant seated-at-the-computer posture i.e. my shoulders roll forward making my front narrower than my back), I took 7mm (.25") of width out of the front shoulder. I pinned the excess fabric out of the muslin and then slashed the pattern tissue in that area, overlapping it and slashing as needed. This sounds very sketchy, but it actually works.
2. For the same reason I took a horizontal wedge out of the jacket front above the bust, reducing the length at CF but leaving the side length undisturbed. The wedge measures about 1cm (3/8") at CF. In sewing, I reduced the length in this area further by easing the front fabric to a fusible tape along the roll line (i.e. the tape was about 1cm shorter than the roll line).
3. I lowered the bust dart by 2.5cm (1").
4. I adjusted the roll line so it starts higher, and moved the under-lapel dart accordingly.
5. I added width at the waist. This was a surprising fitting issue for me. This jacket has very little or possibly no ease built in at the waist.
6. I flattened the curve of the back peplum to adjust for my flat seat. I took a 1cm wedge, i.e. reduced the hem length by a total of 2cm but leaving the waist seam the same length.
7. In sewing, I decided the sleeves were a little floppy so I narrowed the front sleeve seam by bringing in the curve approximately 1cm at the elbow level, bringing the new seam line back to the original location at the hem and armscye.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will not make the jacket again, but may make the top pretty soon.
Conclusion: For more details and in-progress shots, see my blog, The Sewing Lawyer and my Flickr album.
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