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Pattern Reviews> Burda> 7576 (Misses COORDINATES)

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Reviewed by:Kay Y
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About Kay Ystarstarstarstar
Member since: 11/21/04
Reviews written: 186
Sewing skills:Advanced
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patterns reviewed: 175
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Posted on:3/15/14 4:34 PM
Project Photo:Burda: 7576 by Kay Y

Burda: 7576 by Kay Y  Burda: 7576 by Kay Y  
Pattern Photo:Burda 7576
Burda Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Recommend, with Modifications
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 6 people   
See other patterns in this category: Coordinates    
  • Tip: Precision seaming
  • Tip: Sewing a Lined Pocket Flap
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    Pattern Description: This pattern includes a jacket with peplum, narrow skirt and blouse. I made the jacket.

    Pattern Sizing: 10 (36) to 20 (46). I made the size 10.

    Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It does, although I made some key changes.

    Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions are perfectly adequate for order of construction. For tailoring techniques, look for a good book. I highly recommend this one.

    What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was looking for a feminine and stylish jacket for some lightweight wool blend fabric in stash. A friend posted on Facebook that she was making this jacket. The fabric made me go and buy the pattern immediately. I even paid full retail price (an unprecedented event).

    Fabric Used: Fabric purchased at Couture Elle in Montreal during PR Weekend 2010. Well aged, in other words! It is a crisp and lightweight suiting that is mostly wool, a mottled blue-grey, with a small windowpane check. For lining, I used the remains of the bemberg satin lining from an earlier project.

    Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made a muslin that revealed some changes I needed to make both for style and for fit.

    Re style, I immediately decided to moderate the size of the collar and lapels which looked comical on me. I brought the points in by 2cm (.75").

    I did not cut the side panel pieces on the bias. There is no reason for this and I didn't want the line of the check to be disturbed.

    I also decided to get rid of the exaggerated sleeve cuffs and add a button (shortening the lapels). I lengthened the peplum by lining it to the hem instead of folding up a 4cm hem.

    For fit, it's a fairly long list.

    1. To adjust for my narrow frame (which seems to be affected by my constant seated-at-the-computer posture i.e. my shoulders roll forward making my front narrower than my back), I took 7mm (.25") of width out of the front shoulder. I pinned the excess fabric out of the muslin and then slashed the pattern tissue in that area, overlapping it and slashing as needed. This sounds very sketchy, but it actually works.

    2. For the same reason I took a horizontal wedge out of the jacket front above the bust, reducing the length at CF but leaving the side length undisturbed. The wedge measures about 1cm (3/8") at CF. In sewing, I reduced the length in this area further by easing the front fabric to a fusible tape along the roll line (i.e. the tape was about 1cm shorter than the roll line).

    3. I lowered the bust dart by 2.5cm (1").

    4. I adjusted the roll line so it starts higher, and moved the under-lapel dart accordingly.

    5. I added width at the waist. This was a surprising fitting issue for me. This jacket has very little or possibly no ease built in at the waist.

    6. I flattened the curve of the back peplum to adjust for my flat seat. I took a 1cm wedge, i.e. reduced the hem length by a total of 2cm but leaving the waist seam the same length.

    7. In sewing, I decided the sleeves were a little floppy so I narrowed the front sleeve seam by bringing in the curve approximately 1cm at the elbow level, bringing the new seam line back to the original location at the hem and armscye.

    Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will not make the jacket again, but may make the top pretty soon.

    Conclusion: For more details and in-progress shots, see my blog, The Sewing Lawyer and my Flickr album.
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    17 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
    madbadger said...
    Beautiful jacket and excellent review! Love your blog!
    3/15/14 5:25 PM
    ISewedIt said...
    Great fit!
    3/15/14 5:55 PM
    FreyaStark said...
    Very impressive. Your changes to the collar and cuffs are distinct improvements, and your fitting and pattern-matching are spot on. Altogether an excellent effort and a superb jacket! It would be great if you had enough fabric to make the skirt as well - no doubt a sewing lawyer could use a suit!
    3/15/14 7:23 PM
    Aixoise said...
    So perfect - All your alterations, for both design and fit, worked. You are a master at matching those checks, especially across the armscye seams. This is a great style for you.
    3/15/14 7:39 PM
    AnneM said...
    Wonderful final jacket, very nice looking. You should have kept the original muslin for a 70s party.
    3/15/14 8:25 PM
    Dynamo said...
    Your fitting skills are very impressive. Great jacket. I agree with Freyastark ... you should make the skirt!
    3/15/14 9:05 PM
    sewnotwork said...
    What a great fit! Excellent job.
    3/15/14 9:50 PM
    MrsCharisma said...
    WOW!! This jacket is fantastic! Perfectly fit and sewn!
    3/15/14 10:35 PM
    carolynw said...
    Looks so smart andyour changes made such a nice difference. Your sewing skills are to beenvied
    3/15/14 11:21 PM
    cmcarr said...
    Another winner.
    3/16/14 0:08 AM
    Liana said...
    Beautiful! All your changes have made this perfect for you. I love your fabric, and the blouse pattern is so tempting. I may have to take a serious look at it. I love the style.
    3/16/14 8:05 AM
    Danvillegirl said...
    Great looking jacket. Fantastic job matching in the back.
    3/16/14 8:54 AM
    becca a said...
    This jacket is gorgeous and the fit is perfect!
    3/16/14 10:28 AM
    STARG said...
    Gorgeous jacket.
    3/16/14 11:57 AM
    Maree P said...
    This is simply stunning Kay. Beautiful yet subtle....I would wear it in a minute.
    3/17/14 0:37 AM
    KamiSue2 said...
    Wow. Impressive!
    3/28/14 11:27 PM
    cln said...
    I just downloaded this pattern. I can't wait to make it now that i've seen it. Nice job. It looks great on you.
    3/30/14 8:51 AM
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