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Pattern Reviews> Du Barry> 5090 

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Reviewed by:Rairscat
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About Rairscatstar
Member since: 8/1/13
Reviews written: 53
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 2 people
patterns reviewed: 53
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Posted on:5/8/14 10:12 AM
Last Updated:5/13/14 9:59 PM
Project Photo:Du Barry: 5090 by Rairscat

Du Barry: 5090 by Rairscat  Du Barry: 5090 by Rairscat  
Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people    Very Helpful by 2 people   
Fabric:Voile  [See other projects in this fabric]
What year is your pattern from? 1940, per the envelope

Why did you choose this pattern?I bought this pattern in a junk shop on the Strand in Galveston last year. I love the blouson effect from the reverse darts and the narrow self belt on top of the skirt's wide waist band! My first attempt at making this blouse was a huge FAIL: cheap satin charmeuse + unfamiliar, unprinted pattern = wads of cut, half sewn fabric in the trash. I've gotten more familiar with vintage patterns by sewing them up for my daughter, so I'm a little more confident that a better fabric selection will net an actual finished garment this time around.

If you used any vintage techniques or fabrics please tell us about them:No real vintage techniques, except instead of using my serger to edge & seam finish I am working narrow hems on the facings and French seams on the side seams. I used antique crystal buttons that belonged to my grandmother. Noticed they are from Germany, US Zone, definitely post WWII. For top stitching, I used an old spool of mustard colored cotton from a (Full!!) vintage sewing basket my brother in law gave me.

Pattern Sizing:one size, 18, for 36" bust

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?except for the sleeves I omitted and the fact that their model has a waist and I don't, yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?hahahaha!! I read through them a couple times, then completely disregarded. The diagrams show multiple steps completed at once. It reminds me of the scene in cinderella when all the small creatures whip up her garment in a song's time. There are no finishing instructions at all. For instance, there is no yoke facing and once you assemble the yoke to the front and back they say nothing about finishing the raw edges inside. I cut a second yoke, turned under all the raw edges and slip stitched it in place. They really assume you know the basics of dressmaking. I can see how women must have loathed learning to sew if they had to rely on unprinted patterns with vague instruction sheets.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?Likes: I love the style, both the blouse and skirt are charming. The collar was easy-one piece, no stand. The shoulders and armscye fit so much better than modern patterns. There is no gaping at my underarm or any chance of "side boob" showing, yet it is not tight. The bust circumference is generous enough that my buttons will never strain. The neckline is not too low and not too high-just right. 1/2" seam allowances everywhere except the bodice side seams, those were 3/4". Nice!! The blouse fits very snug around the upper hip, so theres not a ton of extra fabric to keep tucked in to your skirt/pants. Dislikes: the holes punched as guidelines suck. The ones marking buttonhole placement didn't line up with each other, and how are you supposed to determine a grain line between two holes 1/4" in diameter? Nowhere in the instructions is interfacing mentioned and I didn't like the single layer yoke.

Fabric Used:Anna Maria Horner's Field Study cotton voile, ordered from Hawthorne Threads

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:Omitted sleeves and added armhole facings, added 2" to length, took in side seams 3/4", used iron in interfacing on front facings and underside of collar.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?yes, and yes. If you have very square shoulders like mine, try an early 1940's pattern. They fit amazingly well in that area.

Why did you omit the sleeves, even though you knew it meant the big DQ?Several reasons. I started this blouse before I heard about the contest and already had a sleeveless objective in mind. Also, I did not want to have to match the pattern across the sleeve seam. The sleeve is not gathered, it is shaped by 3 darts at the armscye. I figured anything I did, no matter how careful, would turn out more distracting. Putting in a sleeve for the contest and removing it later wasn't an option because that would've shredded the voile and I just don't have the time.

Conclusion I love the blouse and the fabric is heavenly. Have some fun and experiment with a vintage pattern. If you have never touched Anna Maria Horner's voile fabric, pick a pattern you like and just order it! Soft, silky and cool without being too sheer. Good luck to the contest participants!!
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11 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
SewOm said...
What a great review and an awesome top. Thanks for being so detailed in your writeup. And yes, I agree, the Anna Maria Horner voile, and all the Free Spirit voiles, are amazing! I stash that stuff.
5/19/14 1:27 PM
supizoo said...
Such beautiful fabric. It really suits the style of your blouse. Sorry you couldn't enter it in the contest but it is beautiful none-the-less. Thanks for the tip about 1940's patterns suiting square shoulders.
5/14/14 6:35 PM
sewrose said...
If you could do a clockwise, 1/4 turn on your photo and resubmit it, I'd like to have a better look at your work!
5/14/14 8:35 AM
Sew Good said...
Pretty fabric! Nice job!
5/13/14 10:23 PM
Alpine Queen said...
I hope you leave the sleeves, which I assume are the short version. I think the dress would look a bit unbalanced without them.
5/12/14 2:18 PM
SJ Kurtz said...
I love that fabric; wishing I had picked it up when I had the chance. Hey, you can always take the sleeves off AFTER the contest. Only you will know then!
5/12/14 3:31 AM
Rairscat said...
Rats!! Thank you for replying :)
5/10/14 10:56 PM
MrsCharisma said...
I'm unable to PM you. Leaving the sleeves off would be considered a "major" change to the pattern; thus making it ineligible. Let me know if there are questions and I can't wait to see it!
5/10/14 8:10 PM
ASiverson said...
Beautiful! TFS
5/9/14 12:37 PM
Chococat said...
Oh gosh, I know what you mean about "multiple steps completed at once", I just finished a pattern from the early 50's and it literally had the bodice completely assembled in one step 0.0. Good work! It looks very summery. :)
5/8/14 7:41 PM
ksgentry said...
I love sewing vintage! Thanks for the review. I think I have this pattern in my stash and will definitely give it a try after seeing your progress.
5/8/14 12:27 PM
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