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Pattern Reviews> Simplicity> 1421 (Misses' Unlined Jacket with Collar and Finishing Variations)

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Reviewed by:NEPA Nellie
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About NEPA Nellie
PA USA
Member since: 3/28/10
Reviews written: 3
Sewing skills:Intermediate
patterns reviewed: 2
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Posted on:5/27/14 10:19 AM
Project Photo:Simplicity: 1421 by NEPA Nellie

Simplicity: 1421 by NEPA Nellie  Simplicity: 1421 by NEPA Nellie  
Pattern Photo:Simplicity 1421
Simplicity Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Recommend, with Modifications
Review Rating: Helpful by 3 people    Very Helpful by 5 people   
See other patterns in this category: Coat/Jacket    
Available for sale on PR: $16.95 (See envelope) Click to Buy
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Fabric:Stretch Twill  [See other projects in this fabric]
This is an unlined blazer with patch pockets. All views call for bias tape or trim as an edging, something I did not realize when I bought it. I thought at least two of the views did not require edging trim. I had no plans to use bias trim on the edges, and I did not, although it required some modification.

I usually cut an 18 at the neck, 20 on the shoulder for more bust length grading out to a 22 by the time I get to the waist (I don't have a waist!). This pattern seemed like it might be rather fitted, so I graded out to a 24. I was glad I did because this fit perfectly.

Aside from the lack of trim, the jacket does look like the pattern picture. Instructions were standard for blazer jackets these days, with the dart helping the lapels to roll -- except for the fact that the bias tape application necessitates you to sew with the jacket and the facing wrong side together. I'm pretty experienced with jackets, especially recently and I don't religiously follow directions, but I do scan them, and the pictures, to make sure I'm not overlooking anything. When I got to the facing application was when I realized that this pattern required binding on all views. I had to ignore the directions on that part, but it wasn't that simple because, as you can see from the photo of the pattern piece, there's an extra little bump where the collar meets the lapel. I was hand basting my facing to my jacket (which is my usual practice) and thinking about this little bump. By the time I basted to the bump I realized that it needed to be eliminated in a binding-less jacket. I ended up making the top of the lapel a gentle curve, which worked as you can see in the picture.

I also added a lining to this jacket, which was pretty easy to do if you are experienced with linings. I used the back piece (with a pleat added center back), the side back, sleeves, and side front, which I attached to the facings. I eliminated the vents on the sleeves, because I they're extra work and I don't care for them anyway. I lengthened the sleeves an inch and a half.

Overall, I was very happy with the outcome of this jacket. It's quite fitted, so I went up a size and I'm glad I did. It feels nice on and I got a lot of compliments on it.

Just as an aside, I recently made a blazer using the Amazing Fit pattern, No. S-2446. I like this one so much better and it went together much more easily. I don't play well with Amazing Fit patterns in general, though, so your mileage may vary.

When I want another blazer, I will definitely use this pattern again.
Available for sale on PR: $16.95 (See envelope)Click to Buy
 
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5 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
hopflower said...
It is a beautiful jacket; both in construction and your choice of colour. Great job!
5/27/14 10:37 AM
Danmar said...
This looks like an excellent sewing job to me!
5/27/14 11:02 AM
MrsCharisma said...
I've been waiting to see this one sewn up. I love it!!
5/27/14 11:29 AM
slmstyle said...
Really cute little jacket! Thank you for the very well written review of this pattern, I may have to try it out someday!
5/27/14 3:54 PM
NEPA Nellie said...
Thanks so much for the votes of confidence!
5/30/14 10:56 PM
 
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