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Pattern Reviews> Butterick> 5926 (Misses' /Misses' Petite Jacket)

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Reviewed by:mnitts
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About mnittsstarstar
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since: 10/2/11
Reviews written: 74
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 27 people
patterns reviewed: 74
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Posted on:6/12/14 4:33 PM
Last Updated:6/12/14 4:37 PM
Project Photo:Butterick: 5926 by mnitts

Butterick: 5926 by mnitts  Butterick: 5926 by mnitts  
Pattern Photo:Butterick 5926
Butterick Pattern Info

More Info provided by mnitts

Pattern Rating:Recommend, with Modifications
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 6 people   
See other patterns in this category: Coat/Jacket    
Available for sale on PR: $18.95 (See envelope) Click to Buy
Current Tags What is a Tag:
Fabric:Neoprene  [See other projects in this fabric]
Pattern Description:
Fitted, unlined jacket has collar, pockets and stitched hems. A and C: purchased trim. Designed for moderate stretch knits.
Pattern Sizing:
8 - 24
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Essentially, yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
If you follow the instructions I think you may end up being slightly disappointed, IMO. The instructions are fine up until the point where it tells you to attach the upper collar and facing to the jacket and undercollar (step 20). Getting your head around that takes some effort! I found Sherry's RTW tailoring sewalong invaluable for this step.

Additionally, the pattern does not make any mention of understitching. I know I didn't take the easy route by using the fabric that I did, but given that the suggested fabrics for this jacket include sweatshirt fleece and wool jersey, I think the understitching is fairly crucial to try and get a decent looking jacket. Again, Sherry's RTW tailoring sewalong was invaluable.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I think the fit is true to size and I like the overall shape. This pattern includes a separate undercollar piece, bust, back shoulder and elbow darts. I think the instructions are not brilliant.
Fabric Used:
A floral printed scuba (neoprene) fabric. This fabric does not like to be pressed. I used a high heat, lots of steam, my silk organza press cloth and my clapper to try and slap those edges into submission. BTW, this fabric was fairly easy to sew. I used a 80/12 Schmetz universal needle and a regular stitch at 2.2 length, with 2.8 for the topstitching. I used a wide three thread overlock to finish the edges inside.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I think I shortened the sleeves by 3.5 inches. I did a half inch sway back adjustment. I did a tissue fit first and from that established the roll line. I then taped the roll line: easing the jacket front to a pre-shrunk length of twill tape using a catch stitch.
One of the major things I did differently to the instructions was the additional understitching I did. I understitched the seam allowances to the jacket facings below the roll line break point; I understitched the seam allowances to the jacket front above the roll line break point; and I understitched the seam allowances of the back of the collar to the under collar. These were all done in an attempt to make the lapels and collar of the jacket roll and sit nicely. It's not perfect. The collar on the left hand side is trying to flip up slightly and I would like another attempt at joining the collar to the undercollar. But it was a great learning experience without going all out on a fully tailored jacket.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I might still sew this for autumn in my navy wool jersey. It is a good pattern, but probably not one for an absolute beginner. I would recommend to intermediate/ experienced sewers.
Conclusion:
This is a good pattern, with mediocre instructions. Maybe my next attempt will be closer to the mark.
Lots more pics on my blog.
Available for sale on PR: $18.95 (See envelope)Click to Buy
 
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14 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
HRigg said...
Thanks for this very helpful and comprehensive review. I do like a floral jacket and this looks great. The colours suit you.
6/12/14 5:06 PM
cleverkitty said...
Really nice floral jacket looks great on you, excellent review :)
6/12/14 7:17 PM
Jstarr4250 said...
This is so pretty and your review so helpful. Your neoprene tips are something I'll refer to for certain, since I recently bought some and have it pegged for a dress. What a shame about this pattern's instructions - you certainly overcame that by using another reference. It's a lovely jacket.
6/12/14 7:49 PM
TJSEWS said...
Your jacket is beautiful! Love the brilliant color. I agree with you that under stitching is very important in the construction of a jacket.
6/12/14 8:16 PM
SewWil said...
Good for you for working this one out. Love your floral jacket. Great job!
6/12/14 8:58 PM
Baja Susana said...
Very pretty.
6/12/14 11:39 PM
Christas said...
What a beautiful jacket! It makes such a classy outfit with your blouse and slacks. Your fabric choice is so perfect for the pattern.
6/13/14 0:32 AM
Mahogany Stylist said...
Great looking jacket. Excellent review.
6/13/14 2:12 AM
Mahogany Stylist said...
Great looking jacket. Excellent review.
6/13/14 2:12 AM
canei said...
Nice!
6/13/14 8:28 AM
MrsCharisma said...
Love it! I was just searching for other reviews of this pattern to decide if I would make it again. your link for the collar is EXTREMELY helpful. I think I can tackle it again!
6/13/14 9:39 AM
liliv said...
Wow, fabulous jacket!!
6/13/14 10:01 AM
Wianno Girl said...
I too have this pattern and could have used your excellent review as reference when I ran into the same issues. Your jacket is tops!
6/13/14 10:27 AM
Stitchmaker said...
So fresh and lovely.
6/16/14 7:25 AM
 
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