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Tips & Techniques > bias seams for a skirt

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Posted on: 12/23/10 0:30 AM
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 7 people   
I just made a kwik sew elastic-waisted bias skirt. Number 3003, view A.
When cutting on the bias place your fabric on carpet, that will help it not to move. Put a book on it. Then measure from the straight-grain line to the side of your material. This should be perfectly even. Pivot the pattern piece if you need to adjust the distance. Once you've got it straight, place heavy books all over it. Cut.

If your fabric doesn't fray too terribly, (eg it isn't boucle) I'd recommend a simple zigzag stitch. Do not pin the material, do not shove it through the machine, do not tug it through. You may need to stitch slowly, and guide the direction, but don't pull on it.
If the look of the inside troubles you, make a second skirt out of lining and attach that to the top of your skirt. Let your lining fall into your original skirt, make your casing, and ta-da, it looks finished on the inside too.

Before hemming, hang your skirt up overnight. You may need to recut the hem to get it even. Get help to do this, and wear the shoes you intend to wear with it.
Don't pin, don't tug, don't pull. I like to use the presser foot on the sewing machine as the guide for width. Fold over a narrow hem, twice, and then lower the needle. Before you actually start sewing, find the center of your section, and fold over twice. Hand onto that. Start your hem at a side seam, and smoothly turn as you go.
If it isn't completely smooth, no worries, the iron is your ally.
Turn that on at its highest temperature, place a medium weight cotton over your fashion fabric and iron that hem.

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