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Tips & Techniques > Turning a conventional turtleneck into a half-zip pullover

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Posted by: redrockcity
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Member since: 11/2/09
Reviews: 31 (tips: 1)
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Posted on: 11/7/11 2:15 PM
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 13 people   
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This is essentially the same technique used in a Kwik Sew pattern, KS 3570, which I modified to turn regular kid sized turtleneck into a half zip pullover. You can see the review here:

After sewing the shoulders, but before attaching the collar I fused a 1" x 5" piece of interfacing to wrong side of front, centering it on the neckline. I then ran a line of stay stitching 1/4 inch from the center front to ~4.5 inches down, 1/2 inch across, and then back up to make a rectangle that is open at the top. I cut the front open between the stay stitching lines, cutting to the very corners of the stay stitching about 1/4 inch from the bottom to make a tiny triangle.

I then sewed the turtleneck collar-unfolded-so that the neck opening matched the edges of collar. You may need to trim the seam allowance a bit if there is some overhang. I made a little notch at the mid point/fold line of the collar before going to the next step.

Next I laid a 7" zipper face down on the right side of the placket so the stop lined up with the bottom row of stay stitching (the short side of the rectangle). The zipper is pointing down toward the bottom hem and the zipper pull is against the fabric. I sewed a 1/2 inch long seam along the bottom line of stay stitching, just above the zipper stop. I then flipped the zipper up and pinned one side from the bottom to the mid point of the collar right sides together and sewed it using my zipper foot, stopping at the collar midpoint. I then repeated this operation on the other side of the zipper.If you pin it and play with it a bit before sewing it all makes sense.

Next, I folded the collar over the zipper--right sides together--and sewed along the same seam. The teeth of the zipper will be on the inside of the sandwich until you turn everything right side out. You need to be careful here not to catch the teeth of the zipper in the seam so they are free when you turn the collar right side out. I then turned the collar right side out and overcast the bottom edges of the collar together using a zig zag stitch.

Finally I put a line of top stitching around the zipper to keep everything in place.

To convert an adult sized turtleneck I would use a 9" zipper and adjust the placket length accordingly.

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pingeldownes said... (10/31/14 9:32 AM) Reply
Pictures would help in this situation!
sewtime said... (11/25/11 2:41 PM) Reply
Thank you for this technique!
kws said... (11/8/11 10:53 AM) Reply
nice and clear, and a good idea. Thanks.
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