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Tips & Techniques > pants pockets without side seam

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Posted by: petro

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Posted on: 12/10/12 3:37 AM
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 8 people   
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Reading The Dreamstress,s review of some nice 40s pants she made reminded me that I did not write up this little tip. If you have a pattern without a side seam, either pants or skirt, and you want to put some regular italian style pockets in, you can do this using the side dart shaping to set them in.

I blogged about the pants I made with this feature at
In this post it is the fuschia pair which have these pockets, there is another set in pocket technique using a faced back slit on a different pair in the same post.

To make the pocket you need to cut one piece which will form the top triangular shaped piece of trouser between the side dart and the top, waistband edge of the pocket opening, and this piece is extended to form the back of the pocket. If you have a commercial pattern for pants with a side seam, it probably has the pieces in it. The other piece faces back the pocket opening and forms the front pocket.

You pin your first piece down the back leg of the side seam dart RS together, stitch it to the dart point, clip, and turn it. Your second piece is pinned RS together to an angled line drawn where you want the pocket opening to be. Its stitched, again finishing at the same point end of the dart. The pocket bag is stitched round.

This method is exactly like making the pockets with a side seam, except that both pieces have to pivot on the same place, dart point. Its the only slightly tricky bit to this idea. It would work best in a plain weave firm fabric.

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Laurie Lou said... (12/10/12 2:46 PM) Reply
Very interesting...I love the close up shopt of the pocket. looks very tidy. I'll have to review this more closely and perhaps give it a try. I like this idea and never saw it before. Thanks!
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