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Posted on: 11/26/16 6:41 PM ET
Been trying all day to get a sleeve to look good.

I don't know what to do, it just seems to hang really ugly and flat.

I have put in a sleeve head made from wool wadding with a little stretchy interfacing (lightweight on it). I tacked the sleeve in, no puckers. I've made my own set-in-sleeve shoulder pad made from semi-circle layers as per the book I'm using. I have pushed the shoulder pad just a little into the sleeve rather than being on the seam edge, as is recommended. It just still hangs sort of flat.

The fabric is gabardine underlined with unwashed medium weight calico.

Is there anything I can do to make it look nicer? I'm just getting to the point that I think I just have to leave it, I don't think I can do back and do it again and again when it's not really improving.

First pictures are from previous attempts. Last three pics are what I am at now, and considering leaving it there: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNkWhgTODJa9sG_3ficXImmiqHGod6ojqtwhp6EiGd47YdDJ6SAXpjb9xmIXTK1yQ?key=Ukxoc1Q0cFY5RjJFTGdZSFU0emUtd1ZhUjljRjdR

Edit: the pictures on me (from previous attempt) are a little odd because the jacket is not for me. I have very narrow, sloping and small shoulders. Person the jacket is for has more square shoulders (see my last review of a Style Arc pattern on my Mum and you can see her shoulders there! Much squarer).
-- Edited on 11/26/16 at 6:44 PM --
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Posted on: 11/26/16 6:52 PM ET
In reply to franhaselden
The shoulder pads are interesting in that I've never seen the layers get smaller on the outside. How do you prevent the edges of each layer from showing on the jacket? Hair canvas on top?
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Posted on: 11/26/16 7:08 PM ET
In reply to Doris W. in TN
The picture shows the shoulder pad on the shoulder. You can't see the layers at all, I'm guessing as it's soft and the gabardine/calico is thick it doesn't show at all.
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Member since 3/24/04
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Posted on: 11/26/16 7:29 PM ET
Like Doris, I'm a bit surprised at the construction of the pad. I usually cut plain pads like this in ellipsoids of various sizes, folded in not-quite half, and stacked, larger piece to the outside of the shoulder.

Two possibilities come to mind:
1. Using a raglan pad, rather than a plain one: http://www.vatex.bg/img/shoulder_pads_sizes.png
2. interfacing the upper portion of the sleeve with a lightweight fusible. Object is support, not stiffness.
  
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Posted on: 11/26/16 7:59 PM ET
In reply to franhaselden
Your workmanship is beautiful on the shoulder pads. I wish mine looked that nice!

I was taught to have the largest piece on the outside, then the layers get smaller closer to the body.
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Posted on: 11/26/16 9:47 PM ET
In reply to franhaselden
To me it looks like the pattern has a flat-ish sleeve. Perhaps you could show us a photo of the sleeve pattern? Is this a commercial pattern?

If the pattern is a flatter casual style sleeve draft it won't be possible to make it look like a perky shoulder pad suit jacket sleeve cap.


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Liz

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Posted on: 11/27/16 9:03 AM ET
The pattern is a Lekala one, not been made by anyone who is sharing it. So I guess maybe it's just a flat sleeve and I have to deal with it?

http://www.lekala.co/catalog/women/coats/pattern/5484#model

I admit there wasn't a whole lot to ease in. I didn't struggle at all and usually I do. So maybe there just isn't enough fabric in the sleeve cap to produce a nice curve even with padding, sleeve head and extra interfacing.

I am just not sure whether it looks bad or whether it's just OK and has to do. I've not sewn a jacket like this before.
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Member since 3/28/09
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Posted on: 11/27/16 9:21 AM ET
If you think there should be more "rope" in the look of the sleeve, then the pattern needs to have enough ease to produce that effect. It doesn,t look like it does.
You can make sure that all the seam allowances are pushed out toward the sleeve, not pressed open , and the sleeve head should be sewn in on the sleeve side of the armhole seam allowance to fill in whatever fullness the ease has created.
As mentioned above, the shoulder pads have been made " inside out". The larger piece goes against the fabric and the smaller pieces towards the body.
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Posted on: 11/27/16 9:37 AM ET
In reply to tailored
OK I haven't tacked them in yet, so I will steam them the other way round, that must just be me being stupid haha!

But I guess there isn't going to be a chance to get more fabric into the sleeve (no fabric left) so I'm just going to have to live with a bit of a flat sleeve :(
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Posted on: 11/27/16 9:53 AM ET
Well I too was going to say the shoulder pad was upside down, but dang, they sure look pretty. I always think I'll make my own and then I get lazy.

Where did you get the instructions for the shoulder pads?

Also, on the close up photo, I can't tell if you have the seam facing towards the body of the jacket, or towards the sleeve. It should be pressed towards the sleeve.

I'm agreeing that perhaps there just isn't enough fabric at the top of the sleeve, what we always complain about having to ease in.

Very pretty and honestly, no one else will notice, but we've all learned something new.
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