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How to hem dresses that must be adjusted year-to-year to fit different students. (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 1/15/17 3:06 PM ET
The school purchased formal concert-wear for the students in the band and I'm in charge of fitting and alterations. The tuxes have been easily fitted and altered, but the dress hems are problematic. The dresses are floor length with A-line skirts made from a polyester crepe. Because the dresses are owned by the school and must be adjusted to fit a new student from year-to-year, I cannot cut extra length off the bottom. This restriction results in some very deep, heavy hems requiring lots of gathering to fit properly. The original hem is serged and turned 1/4", so the thickness of this hem does not ease well. Am I doomed to creating dreadful hems that embarrass me as a seamstress?
I'm looking for a solution that allows a hem to be turned to any depth and eased for a smooth hem, but can easily be adjusted longer or shorter over the years. I envision removing the original hem and attaching some kind of gathering tape that can be pulled up or let out (at each seam?) over and over again. I haven't found any product like this (drapery tape would be too heavy). I know that the sewing community is comprised of incredible problem-solvers, so please share any suggestions to make this work or any other ideas you may have.
I'm looking for a solution that allows a hem to be turned to any depth and eased for a smooth hem, but can easily be adjusted longer or shorter over the years. I envision removing the original hem and attaching some kind of gathering tape that can be pulled up or let out (at each seam?) over and over again. I haven't found any product like this (drapery tape would be too heavy). I know that the sewing community is comprised of incredible problem-solvers, so please share any suggestions to make this work or any other ideas you may have.
Posted on: 1/15/17 3:30 PM ET
Have you considered hem lace? That often helps reduce the bulk when you wind up having to gather (instead of simply ease) a hem edge.
Another choice might be to see if the gowns look ok if you were to straighten the last X inches of side seam. If that works and the school oks it, you'd be setting up future alterationists for fewer headaches.
Another choice might be to see if the gowns look ok if you were to straighten the last X inches of side seam. If that works and the school oks it, you'd be setting up future alterationists for fewer headaches.
Posted on: 1/15/17 3:44 PM ET
As a costume designer I am faced with this all the time. Depending on the look the director is going for here are a couple of suggestions.
You can take a couple rows of contrasting ribbon and run them several inches above the hem line. You can then take the extra length up at the very top of the ribbon keeping the seam close to the edge of the ribbon. you will see the alteration if you are standing next to the dress but will be hard press to see it from the first row.
Put gentle scallops in the bottom 6 inches of the skirts spaced about 12 inches apart. Everyones skirt is scalloped. If a skirt needs to be shorter that skirt will have a deeper and un noticeable scallop.
Depending on the skirt you may be able to take the extra fabric up just below the waistband. This would be done in the same manner as the ribbon. You will see the seam up close but not from the first row. A belt on all skirts would hide the alterations.
Hope these help.
You can take a couple rows of contrasting ribbon and run them several inches above the hem line. You can then take the extra length up at the very top of the ribbon keeping the seam close to the edge of the ribbon. you will see the alteration if you are standing next to the dress but will be hard press to see it from the first row.
Put gentle scallops in the bottom 6 inches of the skirts spaced about 12 inches apart. Everyones skirt is scalloped. If a skirt needs to be shorter that skirt will have a deeper and un noticeable scallop.
Depending on the skirt you may be able to take the extra fabric up just below the waistband. This would be done in the same manner as the ribbon. You will see the seam up close but not from the first row. A belt on all skirts would hide the alterations.
Hope these help.
Posted on: 1/16/17 12:52 PM ET
Emmysewstoo
I really like your first suggestion.
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I really like your first suggestion.
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If it can be done with a needle and thread, I can do it!
Posted on: 1/16/17 8:32 PM ET
In reply to Emmysewstoo
I'd love to see a visual aid on this explanation because it sounds like a great way to solve this problem...
Posted on: 1/17/17 1:09 PM ET
In reply to Kelly D.
Sadly I am in the middle of 200 costumes so do not have the time to post a tutorial right now. I will make a note and work on a tutorial after these are completed!
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