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Posted on: 2/18/17 3:19 PM ET
I have been sewing for almost 50 years but have never really understood fitting and alterations. I have been on a quest the last few months to learn everything I could about this because I have never been happy with the way clothes fit me either RTW or the custom made from purchased patterns. I have been trying different shirt patterns and have had some success in the FBA of theses patterns. My current problem is the neck and shoulder area. The shirts seem to press against my neck and have excess fabric rolls behind my neck. I have done a 1/2" square shoulder adjustment and also removed 1/4" from the back of the neck. And, although this has helped immensely, I still feel the collar is bunching across my back neck. If I were to remove more fabric from the back of the neck would I need to adjust the front neckline the same amount? The collar circumference is actually not too tight. I think I have erect posture, square shoulders and also forward shoulders. I don't have anyone to help me with draping or fitting. I live in a very small town and the nearest tailor is 50 miles away. I would actually love to me able to hire one to help me get the pattern right if I could. Any suggestions on what I could do to fix this problem myself?
Posted on: 2/18/17 3:32 PM ET
In reply to chrisrose
Photos would help. The shirt on you, and if it is a plain or print fabric, grainlines either chalked or basted in in the problem areas. Shots of the pattern pieces would help, too.
The most important thing I learned from basic draping is that grainlines always tell you what is going wrong. It is harder to spot on yourself, but with the combination of boldly marked grainlines and photos you can see what is happening. Helpers only have to be capable of following instructions. Offhand, it sound like 1/2" wasn't enough correction.
-- Edited on 2/18/17 at 3:34 PM --
The most important thing I learned from basic draping is that grainlines always tell you what is going wrong. It is harder to spot on yourself, but with the combination of boldly marked grainlines and photos you can see what is happening. Helpers only have to be capable of following instructions. Offhand, it sound like 1/2" wasn't enough correction.
-- Edited on 2/18/17 at 3:34 PM --
Posted on: 2/18/17 3:36 PM ET
In reply to chrisrose
Do you have a slight round upper back? When I do a simple round back alteration that problem goes away for me.
Posted on: 2/18/17 11:52 PM ET
I'm not sure if I have a rounded back. I can't tell with my untrained eye. The shirt I am working on is a small plaid so maybe that can help. I will see about getting pictures sometime this week. (even though I am feeling quite shy about posting pictures of my overweight torso). Thank you for your comments.
Posted on: 2/19/17 1:03 AM ET
In reply to chrisrose
Sounds like what we really need is the back view from neck to just below the shoulder blades, and about the same from the sides.
In the meantime, take a look at Joy Bernhardt's videos on round back on youtube.
In the meantime, take a look at Joy Bernhardt's videos on round back on youtube.
Posted on: 2/20/17 3:59 PM ET
In reply to chrisrose
All types of bodies are welcomed here for fitting help. If we had the perfect body, we wouldn't be here. If you are shy, just don't photo your face or block it out.
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