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Member since 8/17/10
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Posted on: 3/12/17 4:13 PM ET
Im making a dress for my daughters wedding. I did a mock up of it this weekend and it fits well except for the gapping on the top, near the underarms. This pattern has bust darts that come from the side seam, but when I pinch out the excess where its gapping it almost seems like it needs another dart that comes from the underarm area versus the actual side seam. (I hope this all makes sense)
Would I be better off completely moving the dart up or should I add another dart. OR....should I try to just take it in at the very top of the side seam to snug it up? this dress
  
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Posted on: 3/12/17 6:20 PM ET
My first question would be if you have taken into consideration the length of the top.

I think every bodice must be divided into neck to lower armscye and then lower armscye to waist.

If you were to take a small tuck in your mock up somewhere between neck line and where it comes under the arm, would that make a difference? If so, then there is too much length and that would solve your problem.

OTOH, maybe you need a smaller size from neck to underarm and then full bust adjustment to account for her bust.

Two options to consider.

PS I know I post about this a lot, but discovering this alteration made a huge difference in fitting for me.
-- Edited on 3/12/17 at 6:24 PM --
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Member since 8/17/10
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Posted on: 3/12/17 7:08 PM ET
In reply to EleanorSews
This is great information. Im going to try this out. Thank you. I'll let you know how it works.
  
Member since 3/24/04
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Posted on: 3/12/17 7:23 PM ET
In reply to knitstitcher
Does your dress have sleeves, and does your muslin have sleeves? If the answer is "yes and no, respectively", toss the sleeves in. I'll bet you'll find the sleeves have used that "excess ease" that's showing up as a gap.

If this is a sleeveless pattern, I would draw in horizontal balance lines at the bust and about 3" above, and then keeping those lines parallel to the floor, have a friend repin the shoulder seams to get rid of the gapeing.
  
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Posted on: 3/12/17 7:31 PM ET
In reply to kayl
Kay, it's difficult to see but at the end of the OP is a link "the dress". It's a halter and more of a raised waist than empire but not seated at the natural waist. It's higher.
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"Be kind whenever possible. It is always possible." Dalai Lama

"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

“Be curious, not judgmental.” Ted Lasso
  
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Posted on: 3/12/17 7:35 PM ET
In reply to EleanorSews
Ooh, thanks! Couldn't see it on the phone!

Now that I've looked at it, I would pinch out a dart shape at the shoulder and at the side seam position, and transfer that change to the pattern. What will happen is the angling of the outer edge of the halter will change a bit, as will the side seam.
  
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Posted on: 3/12/17 7:49 PM ET
In reply to knitstitcher
Maybe she just needs to wear a different bra? Was she wearing a day to day bra, or a lift and support super dooper? It can make a huge difference! So change the bra before changing the dress!
  
Member since 8/20/15
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Posted on: 3/13/17 6:47 AM ET
Fittings should be done with the undergarments that will be worn with the garment. This will give you a true idea of how the garment will fit. Once you have adjusted the pattern to the first fitting do another muslin and fit again.
  
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Posted on: 3/13/17 2:01 PM ET
I will probably be adding just "cups" like they do in wedding gowns as I will not be able to wear a bra. I did, however, try this on with a bra and it didn't change the fit.

  
Member since 1/18/05
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Posted on: 3/13/17 3:04 PM ET
Eleanor's correct. There may be too much length up top.

If you could post pics of the muslin, that might help.

I don't always follow pattern placement of the darts. I finalize placement when I muslin. That works better for me & my frame/bust.
-- Edited on 3/13/17 at 3:05 PM --
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