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Member since 4/24/14
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Posted on: 4/14/17 8:25 AM ET
I’ve already mistreated my first (used) serger (not on purpose – I just didn’t know any better), so now I’m afraid to try anything new without asking first. I’m hoping other Juki owners can help with some questions I have.

I’ve had my Juki 654DE for two weeks now. I have tried almost everything the manual says it can do, and used the fabrics I use most. I’ve read that this machine can handle a lot, but I need specifics so I don’t cram too much under the foot or use materials that will damage my new machine.

I’d like to make a zippered tote bag, and found several videos on Youtube that show (mostly) Babylock and Bernina sergers going through nylon zippers. One video showed a zippered bag made with upholstery fabric, one showed a zippered bag being made with 2 layers of quilted fabric, and another showed a zippered bag with one layer of quilted fabric.

Can the Juki 654DE do that? Can it go through a nylon zipper? Can it go through a couple layers of pre-quilted fabric with the zipper, or upholstery fabric with a zipper?
  
Member since 5/28/11
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Posted on: 4/14/17 8:40 AM ET
In reply to StillLearning2
I know people do these things on a serger but my question is why. A serger is most useful for finishing seams and sewing knits. I would think a bag would give way eventually. I would use my sewing machine for this project.
  
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Posted on: 4/14/17 9:45 AM ET
I agree for some things. For example, I prefer using a zig zag stitch with my sewing machine for fleece, but if a sewing machine is strong enough to secure a bag, then I think a serger would make it just as secure, if not more (however, I've never made a bag).

I've seen sergers marketed to do so much more than finishing seams and looking pretty on the table, which is why there are optional feet available. I don't mind replacing needles and knives for that freedom, but not at the expense of throwing out the timing. I want to get the most out of my machine and not be limited to seams and knits if possible.
  
Member since 4/8/08
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Posted on: 4/14/17 11:11 AM ET
In reply to StillLearning2
I use my Juki 654DE for a lot of things and have cut through a nylon coil zipper with the serger with no problems (I'm talking about the dress weight zippers not the heavier jacket zippers). You need to be sure that you are free and clear of the metal tab at the bottom of the zipper and go slowly.

I've serged fleece (multiple layers), upholstery fabrics, denims, quilted fabrics, faux leathers, suedes. Have gone over seam intersections with little problem -- going slowly. If it looks like it might be too thick I prep the seam by "hammering" it to compress the layers.

I have a set of 6 feet for my Juki serger and have used some of them extensively and others I haven't used at all yet (haven't found the time to experiment and haven't needed them for a specific project). The set was originally bought to do fishline hems on ballroom gowns but I've used it for a few other things.

I've broken my share of needles and have replaced both my upper and lower knives at least once each in the time I've had the serger. With all the paces I've put the machine through there's been no "damage" requiring tech support. Make sure to oil it regularly and to clean it out often with a vacuum attachment. This machine goes in once every couple of years for a thorough cleaning due to all the glitter and holographic fabrics I use -- the vacuum only gets so much of that fine dust.


------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)

2025 Stash Busting:
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Member since 3/24/04
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Posted on: 4/14/17 1:45 PM ET
In reply to SheBear0320
Oops... this is actually directed to the OP:

I've handwalked a Juki 655 through a 5 mm nylon coil zipper. Zipper tape, no problems, but because of needle deflection on the coils, you might bust a needle or shove a looper out of alignment if you don't slow down when doing it.

IMHO, it's always worthwhile to think a project through about the number and thickness of plies you're going to be going through, particularly on intersections. The work needs to be able to easily fit between the notch of the upper knife and the stitch plate. If it just barely fits, you may find yourself in the situation where the knife is forcing the fabric away from the blades (so you get a narrower trim width) or it may even jam or elongate the seam.

It's a really good serger, one of the strongest of the home sergers. But it's not an industrial designed for sewing something ridiculously tough and thick, like 10 layers of Kevlar or several plies of belt leather. If you don't try to regularly force it into trying to sew ridiculous loads, it'll last a whole lot longer and you'll be a whole lot happier with its performance.
-- Edited on 4/14/17 at 1:46 PM --
  
Member since 5/2/09
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Posted on: 4/14/17 2:03 PM ET
In reply to StillLearning2
U tube is a place where anyone can put something, so just because you see a Utube, does not mean you should always do just the same. You need to use your own judgement each time instead. About anything you see on utube ever.

I have some personal rules for using any sewing machine or overlocker, (for myself) that serve me pretty well, and I very rarely or never break or damage anything if following them, and you could copy some if you want maybe:

#1, the fabric in them, should be able to travel though the machine, with just the machines own feed dogs doing all the work, to move that fabric through there and never, ever your hands trying to force, pull and tug fabric though instead. If that can't happen, then don't do it, (if you want no risk) or at least forget about using any foot pedal and only turn the fly wheel very carefully and slowly in that one spot, by hand instead.

#2, don't ever put so much fabric (in thickness) under some pressure foot that the pressure foot is lifted up so high, that you loose all your top thread tension, or so that a machine is visable and audio wise (noise) struggling with something.

If you keep to those two kind of very super basic kind of rules, (sewing machine or serger)- kind of no matter what your machine or fabric is like, then most times you would not damage anything. When you start kind of breaking those rules, then machines do often sometimes start to get untimed, bobbin cases hit and scored up and trashed maybe, overlock loopers hit or bent up or broke, and stitch plates hit and trashed and maybe on a overlocker, the stitch pins broken out of them on the stitch plates even.

I don't like to and don't sew though the actual coil part of nylon zippers with a overlocker ( it would not matter what model or kind to me) and I don't let my blades cut through them either, but that's just me. I kind of prefer my upper knives last longer and more save them for real fabric instead. Also retiming overlockers replacing bent loopers, or trying to get needle hits out of them, is not my most favorite thing to do. I guess it's good if you get paid for that (money coming in) but if it's your own equipment, there would be zero advantage to that at all really. So just best to avoid all that instead, I think.

It's not a matter of brand of something, more just common sense each time for some particular sewing condition, and a personal "judgement call" instead really.
  
Member since 4/24/14
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Posted on: 4/14/17 3:06 PM ET
This is exactly the information I need! It lets me know what is possible and still gives me boundaries. I'm really thankful for your guidance!
  
Member since 5/14/05
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Posted on: 4/14/17 10:39 PM ET
In reply to StillLearning2
^^ What they said!! although (like Beauturbo) I never cut through a zipper of any size with the overlocker knife, instead I prefer to cut the zipper with my general purpose scissors....I do not even use my good fabric scissors as I don't want to risk a burr on the blade. But then I'm fussy about my scissors, ask anyone who goes into my sewing room looking to cut anything. While I have lots of scissors each pair have a designated job and are NOT to cut anything else...same with the overlocker knife.

Ditto to stitching super-thick seams, Sheila's suggestion of the hammer is good and I use that sometimes too, but generally I prefer to grade seam allowances by hand so there is no lump.

Have fun with your overlocker and don't forget to clean and oil it along with changing needles as required. While it's new, tune your ear to the sound of the needles penetrating the fabric....when they make a dull 'thud' sound it's time for a new needle. Same goes for your sewing machine and learning to listen for the thud will save you long term.



  
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