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Member since 4/24/17
Posts: 27
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Posted on: 5/18/17 12:51 PM ET
I like the look of darts to add structure to a garment and I want to use vertical shaping darts, yes with spandex, even though it's stretchy it's a 2-way with lots of length wise stretch. Could anyone who may have had some success doing this give me their best tips for a smooth result please? Is pressing with a tailors ham really necessary on this kind of frabric? I hesitate to iron a fabric that might get melted if the temperature isn't low enough. Thanks for reading and to anyone with suggestions to produce smooth ends!!
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Posted on: 5/19/17 0:45 AM ET
I've been sewing a long time, and I would very much try to avoid it and find some other way to do whatever you are trying to do there. Because I think your fabric will be too thick and spring-y and sponge-y, to hold a dart good, and I don't think it will stay folded to one side and I think it will show through to the garment side (when worn) as a ugly lump/bump there.

But if I really had to do it (like someone was forcing me against my will to do that) I would probably sew the dart with a triple stretch straight stitch on a sewing machine (or a back stitch by hand) and not sew backwards at the end point of it at all. And tie off that thread at the end point by hand, instead. Then since it would be a vertical up and down kind of long dart, after it was sewn, I would cut it on the inside on the fold line, and only finger press it open. That might make it a bit less lumpy/bumpy. Then afterwards on the right side of the fabric, I would top stitch it down on both sides of it, with a triple straight stitch or a zig zag stitch on a sewing machine, or even prick stitch it down by hand with a back stitch, as either of those would still stretch some.

If you really want to try it though, do it on a waste sample scrap first, not the real garment. And see what you think,As if you don't like it later, there would be no way of ever reversing that or making it like you had not done that, afterwards at all. I would not let any heat or any iron anywhere near it, as it probably would melt, so I don't think any heat would do you any good at all, and only harm it, instead. So, avoid the iron!
  
Member since 7/23/07
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Posted on: 5/19/17 9:58 AM ET
In reply to fabricisfun
I do darts in spandex and although I need a bit of work with the curved dart technique to get rid of the "bubble" effect, they work fine. I use the chain stitch feature on my CS machine to get enough stretch, then stitch down at the side seam.

As far as pressing goes, take some scraps and test them with your iron. Those fabrics often can take more heat than you expect. Start low and use a press cloth, though!

She Bear might have more advice for you since she sews on spandex a lot.
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Posted on: 5/19/17 11:05 AM ET
In reply to fabricisfun
I do darts on spandex using a longer straight stitch and run off the edge and then tie them off -- I've used this on a variety of weights of spandex with no problems. I've done bust darts, vertical darts and waist darts in pants. Getting the length right is key when making darts in spandex.

As far as pressing goes -- always use a press cloth. As tourist said, start low on scraps and test how high you can go without damaging the fabric. I use a tailor's ham as it provides some padding under the dart and I also make use of a clapper to hold the press. I find with the clapper I am able to press at a lower temp. For stubborn fabric I will use a shot of steam in addition to the press.

Hope that helps.

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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)

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Member since 4/24/17
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Posted on: 5/19/17 11:47 AM ET
In reply to SheBear0320
SheBear, could you please tell me more about finding the right dart length? Do you use anything like a temporary stabilizer? Do you have a blog? I'd definitely read that blog post if you do one on said subject! :D
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Fabric is Fun!
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Posted on: 5/19/17 11:51 AM ET
In reply to beauturbo
Thank you for your input! The forcing you against your will to do darts in spandex made me giggle. You are funny. :)
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Fabric is Fun!
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Posted on: 5/19/17 11:59 AM ET
I'm a total sewing geek now so I'd love to see pictures of the projects that anyone may like to show off their smooth spandex darts! I've seen some very interesting dart options and I'm even wondering if a princess seam might work out better, yet I'm thinking those must be more difficult so I'm hesitant.
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Posted on: 5/19/17 12:05 PM ET
I don't typically sew spandex but do sew a lot of stretch materials.

I'd use a longer stitch length but reduce the stitch length significantly at the tip (last 3 stitches or so) & do not back stitch.

I don't know if it's proper, but I've also put the tiniest drop of fraycheck at the tip on the wrong side of the fabric. I don't really know if that does anything at all. It gives me mental security.
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Posted on: 5/19/17 2:42 PM ET
In reply to traceymadeit
Thanks for mentioning that -- I use a smaller stitch length for the last 3 stitches -- do not back stitch -- I sew right off the end of the dart tip and then loosely tie the thread tails together and trim. Would have to really careful on nylon spandex with fraycheck due to the "staining" effect especially on light colours.


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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)

2025 Stash Busting:
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Member since 4/8/08
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Posted on: 5/19/17 2:48 PM ET
In reply to fabricisfun
I don't have a blog (I don't even have time for my website most of the time). Right now my website is pretty bare bones and in the process of being updated.

I don't use any stabilizer on darts. I find typically in high spandex fabrics (10 to 20% spandex content), you don't need to get as close to the "target" area due to the stretch factor of the fabric.

I have used princess seams on several of my dance and skating costumes -- I'll see if I can dig out some photos and post them here.

What kind of spandex fabric are you using? Are you making activewear? What type of spandex content do your fabrics have?

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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)

2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
  
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