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Posted on: 10/8/17 5:25 PM ET
Below are two links (hopefully) - the first is me standing as straight as I can (back problems so my right leg is straight and my left leg is bent - at least until the next knee replacement) and the second is a more normal stance. The more normal stance shows a horizontal fold of fabric. What correction do I need to do? The pattern is an altered Simplicity pant pattern, even though the fabric is jeans! I'm considering this a wearable muslin, but hopefully I can alter this pair. If not, I'm ready to make another pair once I get some guidance from the smart sewists on PR!
Edited to delete the two bad photos.
-- Edited on 10/9/17 at 5:47 PM --
Edited to delete the two bad photos.
-- Edited on 10/9/17 at 5:47 PM --
Posted on: 10/8/17 6:09 PM ET
In reply to sewerlibn
A couple of things:
Even though I don't have your knee issue, I am similarly shaped it seems.
First, I'd measure the pattern from the waist to crotch, then measure yourself. Many of these patterns are too long on crotch depth. I always shorten my front & back pattern pieces in equal amount below the waist & above the hip line about 1"
Second - this will take fiddling - from the gathering of fabric at the front of the crotch, you may need to reduce the crotch point (front, back or both!!! I usually work with back first since I have such a prominent backside & always add a wedge.)
Third, we really need to see the back side too. A lot of these issues may be caused by you actually needing a wedge in the back and/or front. (I ALWAYS DO!!) How does this muslin fit on your waist. It's difficult to tell from the photos. If it's fitting below your tummy, you may need another wedge in front.
For these type of adjustments, I highly highly recommend Sewing Pants That Fit from the Singer Sewing Reference Library. It's out of print & from the '80s BUT you can pick one up on Amazon for a few dollars.
HTH & Good luck!!!
-- Edited on 10/8/17 at 6:13 PM --
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Even though I don't have your knee issue, I am similarly shaped it seems.
First, I'd measure the pattern from the waist to crotch, then measure yourself. Many of these patterns are too long on crotch depth. I always shorten my front & back pattern pieces in equal amount below the waist & above the hip line about 1"
Second - this will take fiddling - from the gathering of fabric at the front of the crotch, you may need to reduce the crotch point (front, back or both!!! I usually work with back first since I have such a prominent backside & always add a wedge.)
Third, we really need to see the back side too. A lot of these issues may be caused by you actually needing a wedge in the back and/or front. (I ALWAYS DO!!) How does this muslin fit on your waist. It's difficult to tell from the photos. If it's fitting below your tummy, you may need another wedge in front.
For these type of adjustments, I highly highly recommend Sewing Pants That Fit from the Singer Sewing Reference Library. It's out of print & from the '80s BUT you can pick one up on Amazon for a few dollars.
HTH & Good luck!!!
-- Edited on 10/8/17 at 6:13 PM --
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My Herd: Bernina 790 Plus Upgrade, Bernina 735, Babylock Triumph, Bernina Record 931. Sewing Makes My Crazy Life Normal.
Member #25631
Member #25631
Posted on: 10/8/17 6:48 PM ET
I have to agree, there's more going on than can be determined from these photos.
Four photos would be best. Front, back and both sides with you facing the camera straight on. I usually place the camera about 24" above the floor when I'm studying my pants fit. I set the phone camera for a 5 second timer using the "face" sitting so I can center myself. The phone is propped as perpendicular to the floor as I can get it, so as not to distort the angle.
Also try to use somewhat harsh direct light in order to accentuate the folds of the fabric. I photo myself in the bathroom because the lights are so bright. A table lamp or two placed to each side of the camera (with the shade removed, usually) will normally do the job.
The front rise does look too long, but I suspect there's a crotch issue. How the waist lays on your body and how the sideseams line up are all important in diagnosing the issues.
Four photos would be best. Front, back and both sides with you facing the camera straight on. I usually place the camera about 24" above the floor when I'm studying my pants fit. I set the phone camera for a 5 second timer using the "face" sitting so I can center myself. The phone is propped as perpendicular to the floor as I can get it, so as not to distort the angle.
Also try to use somewhat harsh direct light in order to accentuate the folds of the fabric. I photo myself in the bathroom because the lights are so bright. A table lamp or two placed to each side of the camera (with the shade removed, usually) will normally do the job.
The front rise does look too long, but I suspect there's a crotch issue. How the waist lays on your body and how the sideseams line up are all important in diagnosing the issues.
Posted on: 10/8/17 8:14 PM ET
Thanks....will take more pictures Monday and post them. And, I will send more details of my shape. Appreciate your help already!
Posted on: 10/9/17 5:46 PM ET
Thanks again for the help. DH took pictures and hopefully they will be clearer - we don't have a bathroom that works for photos. My bent shape is a challenge, as are my saddlebags at my high hip. My front rise is about 8" in those pants, and my back rise is 22". I had cut out a pair of jeans from a Simplicity pattern and they were way loose, so I took them in and used tracing paper to make the altered pattern. I think I scooped the front crotch a bit too much on that altered pattern, but that is just a guess. So, here are 5 links - front, front with crease, right, left, and back. Hopefully you will give me suggestions of how I can eliminate that crease (and improve any other areas!) I'm still trying to get a TNT pants pattern!
front standing straight
front crease
right
left
back
front standing straight
front crease
right
left
back
Posted on: 10/9/17 5:50 PM ET
Tracey, I have the Singer title - from when it was first published. And, I have many other fitting books, including the 3rd ed of Fitting and Pattern Alteration. My challenge is to figure out what alteration I need - I see one picture and think I need that, and then see another picture and think that is the alteration!
Posted on: 10/10/17 0:23 AM ET
I hate getting into fitting threads, because there are so many opinions. However, go to Peggy Sagers fitting pants with several ladies on her Utube webcasts. It is Aug 8th, 16, and it is wonderful!! I think you might get some really great ideas from her fitting pants on these ladies, and as they say -- a picture is worth a 1000 words. I do better with seeing it done on someone.
I hope this helps.
http://silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_08_08_2016.htm
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I hope this helps.
http://silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_08_08_2016.htm
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"Sewing should be fun; make it that way!" Margaret Islander
Flying through life by the seat of my pants and hoping I get my crotch curve right.
"No humiliation is too great for a well fitting pair of pants!" Heidi Cooper
J6500P,
J1600P
J3160DC
J350E
JCP1000
Babylock Enlighten serger
My grandmother's Feather Weight
Flying through life by the seat of my pants and hoping I get my crotch curve right.
"No humiliation is too great for a well fitting pair of pants!" Heidi Cooper
J6500P,
J1600P
J3160DC
J350E
JCP1000
Babylock Enlighten serger
My grandmother's Feather Weight
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