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Member since 7/26/17
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Posted on: 11/6/17 1:53 PM ET
nm........
-- Edited on 11/6/17 at 7:38 PM --
  
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Posted on: 11/6/17 2:10 PM ET
In reply to bearsandpuffins
You will almost always save fabric by cutting single ply compared to cut on cold or cut two on folded fabric. The disadvantage of cutting single ply is that you do a lot more actual cutting, and it can be difficult to reach across the widths to cut accurately. Also most of us don't have room to spread a 60 to 80 inch wide fabric flat and fully supported.

I cut most fabrics single ply. I am not symmetrical, so cutting on fold is more difficult. I keep a bunch of simple kids patterns around to fill the waste spots generated by cutting my patterns. The kids patterns are all easy sewing (nice for days when I am not feeling up to detailed sewing) and wind up at the local schools clothing closets, where they seem to be well recieved
  
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Posted on: 11/6/17 2:20 PM ET
And, don't forget that you CAN cut on the fold while conserving fabric. E.g., the fabric doesn't need to be folded in half. I normally fold just enough to fit the pattern piece, and go from there.

The pic you posted could've definitely benefited from folding the edges toward the center, cutting all those small pieces (bodice and facings,etc )on the 'small folds' and then adjusting the rest of the cutting layout.
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My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
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Member since 7/26/17
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Posted on: 11/6/17 2:41 PM ET
In reply to KSmithSews
nm........
-- Edited on 11/6/17 at 7:38 PM --
  
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Posted on: 11/6/17 2:53 PM ET
Yes, but that instagram photo is a pretty extreme example, and that was probably not a pattern layout from the back of any major corporations sewing patternSo yes, that person probably did not know any better. The pattern layouts on a fold out pattern instruction page and the yardage on the back of patterns are just sort of there, as a suggestion, and more a "fail safe" so if someone wants to make the thing, and they have no fabric already, they should hopefully know they will be "safe" in buying the amount of fabric listed on the back of the pattern envelope to do it with, if they lay it out like in the layout instructions. But yes, sometimes you can get it out of less fabric, if you do your own thing there instead. Also though, when they show layouts they don't really have different ones for each size of a pattern either. So that makes a big difference sometimes when trying to fit a bunch of pattern pieces real close together in some other way of your own choosing even. If you got a bunch of patterns and a bunch of fabric all ready and at the same time though, (and not buying one for the other in particular) I think it's always worth trying to use less fabric to cut it out with, if you want. That happens for me often, but I also think that is because the actual size of the pattern pieces I use, might not be the largest size of the pattern use-able shown in the layout pages, so of course then, I got more wiggle room, to even get things closer together or cut things some other way. Also a fabricfold does not have to be in the middle of your fabric, it can be just where ever you fold some fabric over on the straight grain of it even. I don't bother to re-trace half pattern pieces into full ones, but I will sometimes just cut half and not the fold line edge at all, then flip it around to get the other half. Since I don't most times end of buying fabric for just the thing I end up making in the end, all that stuff works for me.

But, if I bought a pattern and had no fabric, and then needed to buy some for it on purpose and as a separate thing and event, then unless I really wanted to cut out all the pattern pieces and play around a lot with putting them all different ways and combinations on a fake piece of fabric of some width first, then at least if I buy the amount listed on the back of the pattern envelope, (which I would do then) I know I should have enough and not run out. Always better to have a bit extra than not enough even.

  
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Posted on: 11/6/17 3:00 PM ET
In reply to bearsandpuffins
I'm taller than the average pattern calls for, so I learned early on to always buy at least a quarter yard more. But yes, I've had some nail-bitingly tight fabric layouts over the years. In general, the narrower the fabric (they were often 36" when I started sewing), the larger the percentage of waste in the layout, particularly with larger sizes.

As KSmith pointed out, refolding fabric often can let you do a tighter "cut on fold" layout. With fabrics that are bolted, the fold is often discolored or perma-dirty or worn or perma-creased, and not using the original fold as a center front/center back avoids all sorts of disappointments.
  
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Posted on: 11/6/17 3:25 PM ET
In reply to kayl
Quote:
I keep a bunch of simple kids patterns around to fill the waste spots generated by cutting my patterns. The kids patterns are all easy sewing (nice for days when I am not feeling up to detailed sewing) and wind up at the local schools clothing closets, where they seem to be well received


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Projects completed in 2024: 3 pairs gloves. Four pairs of jeans. Five custom tarps. A dozen linen hankies. A wool wrap for a friend. Four linen bath towels and 24 washcloths. Two bed pillows.
38.5 yards of fabric out.
  
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Posted on: 11/6/17 3:37 PM ET
In reply to blueviola
Nah, just hate waste. As I'm in an area with a high immigrant farm worker population and also high housing costs, the dab of sewing I do for schools might help somebody a bit. And I often have fun on the kids' stuff... break out the decorative stitches, or do a bit of applique, or try something "trendy". And if I screw it up too badly, I've only "wasted" stuff that would have been cutting waste.
  
Member since 11/28/13
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Re: Cutting single layer (posted on 11/6/17 4:02 PM ET)
In reply to bearsandpuffins
I learned something interesting the other day from my pattern making teacher. I've always hated putting fabric on the fold, and because it's awkward, assumed that it must be done that way because it's efficient and I was just clumsy. It is efficient -- for the pattern companies -- who spend less money on tissue paper. In clothing factories, they use a full pattern piece. Cutters who are cutting several plies of fabric at once with an electric cutting device can't work with fabric cut on the fold.

If it's worth it to you, make a full pattern piece. Trace a pattern piece that's designated "cut on fold" to a piece of folded paper. Staple it to keep the paper from shifting, cut it out. If you like to trace around patterns, transfer the pattern to a harder surface like beaming paper or oaktag.

In another class, I was told that companies sew plaids by laying them out in a single layer. None of that sticking a pin through two layers to see if they match up business I've on the web.

Sometimes the commonsense, straightforward way is actually better, even if it takes a little more time.


-- Edited on 11/6/17 at 4:13 PM --
  
Member since 10/19/13
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Posted on: 11/6/17 4:25 PM ET
In reply to bearsandpuffins
I understand your concerns,but as someone who always needed extra length for long arms and legs, I can assure you it feels much better to have 1/4 to 1/2 yard too much than to have less than 1/8 yard too little.

The example you posted was a bit extreme, but honestly someone that would cut in that manner most likely has many other issues to deal with - that may be far more important.

To be able to match a plaid and use less than the recommended fabric is a rarity. Much depends on the size being cut and its relationship to the size of the plaid.

I've also seen plaids utilized by home sewists that though cut in a fabric efficient manner, they didn't necessarily yield the best possible aesthetic.

The only way to purchase exact amounts of fabric is to buy the pattern first and verify the layout - then purchase the fabric. I have done this with expensive fabrics a few times. Usually I purchase fabrics on sale, at great prices, so I make certain to purchase enough for what I most likely choose to do with a piece. If there's 1/4 yard too much, I've still saved myself money.

We all have our "things" we find wasteful - mine is using granite/marble/etc. for kitchen counter tops. Purchasing a lifetime supply of unused fabric stash would never destroy as much of the earth's natural resources as one 6' section of marble - which takes thousands of years to form. Small amounts of cotton, wool, even the small amount of polyester I buy, is nothing by comparison.

Just to put things into perspective.........

I feel much worse about fabric that results in a wadder or an ill-fitting muslin than I do about an excess 18" of fabric leftover from a very successful project, because even when I wonder what to do with the leftover - I feel good remembering the success I created with the rest of it.
  
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