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Posted on: 11/10/17 7:42 PM ET
Hi , I've been looking into fI'll bust adjustments before I get into anything too complicated .I always have stretching through the bust of my clothes and gaping armholes , but according to my upper bust I'm only an A/Bcup .My upper bust is 37 my full bust is 38.5 but my under bust is 31 . So I have big shoulders and a tiny ribcage .Could I just use a bigger size and grade from the armpit to waist (30) Many thanks
Posted on: 11/10/17 7:55 PM ET
In reply to lilianna77
It's really hard to give fit advice without photos.
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Diane L Wilson
Palmer/ Pletsch Certified Sewing Instructor
Follow me on Instagram & Twitter @sewfrantic
Business IG @stitchplease_cs Custom Fit Shirts
Palmer/ Pletsch Certified Sewing Instructor
Follow me on Instagram & Twitter @sewfrantic
Business IG @stitchplease_cs Custom Fit Shirts
Posted on: 11/10/17 8:20 PM ET
In reply to lilianna77
I have a small ribcage/underbust measurement, too. Most patterns don't take ribcage/underbust measurements into account in the body measurement chart.
Without any information about what pattern company you are looking at, and what style of garment you are looking to sew, and with the limited information about your figure that we have, I would generally advise a person in your situation to look at starting with a pattern that fits your full bust. Since your upper bust and full bust are less than 2" different, an FBA would not be needed in most pattern brands. In Vogue patterns and many other brands, the standard for a size 16 is 38" full bust and a 30" waist, so there wouldn't be any need to grade between sizes. You'll want to check the measurement charts carefully.
eta: added missing word
-- Edited on 11/11/17 at 0:22 AM --
Without any information about what pattern company you are looking at, and what style of garment you are looking to sew, and with the limited information about your figure that we have, I would generally advise a person in your situation to look at starting with a pattern that fits your full bust. Since your upper bust and full bust are less than 2" different, an FBA would not be needed in most pattern brands. In Vogue patterns and many other brands, the standard for a size 16 is 38" full bust and a 30" waist, so there wouldn't be any need to grade between sizes. You'll want to check the measurement charts carefully.
eta: added missing word
-- Edited on 11/11/17 at 0:22 AM --
Minnesota USA
Skill: Advanced
Skill: Advanced
Posted on: 11/10/17 11:36 PM ET
Use your full bust measurement, as mentioned. You may need a broad back adjustment??
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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip
http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip
http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
Posted on: 11/11/17 2:24 AM ET
In reply to lilianna77
Your measurements are similar to mine. My under bust is 33 and I have 1.5 inch difference between upper and full bust.
I need to do a 1.5 inch fba. I wear a DD or E cup bra. I have sloping narrow shoulders.
So you might need to do a fba to get a good fit
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I need to do a 1.5 inch fba. I wear a DD or E cup bra. I have sloping narrow shoulders.
So you might need to do a fba to get a good fit
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Wellington, NZ
Posted on: 11/11/17 9:39 AM ET
Ok, not too sure about the rest of your measurements, but I can tell you that for some of us that whole high bust measurement is crap. I'm only 5'1", have a full bust of 40" and high bust of 38", accodrding to that high bust rule I'm a B cup. Yeah definitely not. My underbust is 33", I wear an E cup bra. For me the issue is that due to my short torso, my breast tissue continues right up to where the high bust measurement is taken.
What I do when using patterns is try and measure across my shoulders and chose my pattern size based on shoulder measurements and the do a Fba based on that size.
What I do when using patterns is try and measure across my shoulders and chose my pattern size based on shoulder measurements and the do a Fba based on that size.
Posted on: 11/11/17 10:43 AM ET
Good Morning:
Just to expand on Solecrafter's comments: my upper bust is 42 and my bust is 47 1/2 All patterns are too large at the neckline and not wide enough on the bust unless I draft up a size. Under bust is 40 1/2--any suggestions as to best way to deal with this are welcome!
Just to expand on Solecrafter's comments: my upper bust is 42 and my bust is 47 1/2 All patterns are too large at the neckline and not wide enough on the bust unless I draft up a size. Under bust is 40 1/2--any suggestions as to best way to deal with this are welcome!
Posted on: 11/11/17 5:28 PM ET
In reply to lilianna77
Usually a gaping armscye is solved by adding a dart. My dd wears a 32DD bra and she still measures only a 2" difference from upper bust to full bust. She has a muscular back and upper chest from climbing and needs a small fba. The easiest way to fix your problem is to pin out the gape out of the armscye making it into a short dart. I would then rotate this dart to the side since it will end up increasing your bust room. The Palmer Pletsch fit your bust dvd has additional information for fitting the bust from their fitting book. They also recommend that all women use the upper bust measurement to choose their size and make an fba. This would work well for you I think.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 11/11/17 5:54 PM ET
Nancy, the method you describe would undoubtedly give most people a good fit and it's the one I use most often. It might seem intimidating for a beginner, though!
Hopefully the original poster will come back with some more information, and even some photos of what she's having trouble fitting so we can give specific advice.
Hopefully the original poster will come back with some more information, and even some photos of what she's having trouble fitting so we can give specific advice.
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