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Member since 11/24/13
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Posted on: 11/15/17 3:35 PM ET
I sew mostly Style Arc or Burda patterns in size 12 and 16 respectively because those sizes fit perfectly around the shoulders and armscye. FBA's work fine when the style is A line, not my favourite look but ok with midi length dresses. The trouble starts when I want a semi fitted look. I do exactly the same FBA but get diagonal lines under the bust when there is a curve into the waist. I know this indicates a larger FBA is needed but then I end up with too much fabric around the hips and the original shaping gets lost. I am 38DD and 38.5 in the hip. Can I avoid grading the side seams and cut and slash in the front of the garment around the hip area instead so the shaping is maintained? If so, does this involve some special technique?
  
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Posted on: 11/15/17 3:43 PM ET
In reply to kauki
Have you tried any other methods? I now use (the late, great) Nancy Zieman's Pivot & Slide method. My hips are proportionally smaller than my shoulders and bust and this method allows me to select the right size for each. No slashing!

Sample of Pivot & Slide method
  
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Re: Fed up with FBAs! (posted on 11/15/17 4:45 PM ET)
Try a Silhouette pattern. Peggy Sagers includes cup sizes in her patterns. silhouettepatterns.com
  
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Posted on: 11/15/17 5:04 PM ET
I've never done an FBA that I've been happy with (I've tried several methods).

I started using Silhouette Patterns and am very happy. I wear a 36E or DD bra depending on the maker and the D cup fronts for #600 blouse and the #195 top have fit me perfectly.

I also got great results with the fit on a Sure Fit sloper but I haven't done a good job making actual wearable garments with it yet.
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Posted on: 11/15/17 7:47 PM ET
In reply to kauki
A few years ago, the fitting mavens at Palmer-/Pletsch came up with something called the 'Y-Dart FBA' for very full bustlines. You might want to read it through and maybe give it a shot.


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Posted on: 11/15/17 10:15 PM ET
In reply to kauki
Favorite method is on the Palmer-Pletsch DVD, Full Busted, sewing clothes that fit. Several demo's of how to do a practical and successful FBA on any frame. I'm a 34H, works for me. Their book Fit for Real People includes these techniques and others such as a diagonal darts which may help.
-- Edited on 11/15/17 at 10:19 PM --
  
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Posted on: 11/15/17 10:52 PM ET
In reply to 2mulie
Julie --- I second your suggestion. That FBA PP DVD is wonderful. I have found the PP method to be very reliable, but also like Peggy Sager's draping method for fit, I find very useful as well.
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Posted on: 11/15/17 11:40 PM ET
I also suggest you look at Cashmerette patterns. They are designed for larger bust sizes. I wear a 44F and never have to do an fba. A miracle.
  
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Re: Fed up with FBAs! (posted on 11/16/17 1:04 AM ET)
I second the motion to check out the Cashmerette line. I wear a 12 g/h and have narrow shoulders compared to Big 4 Patterns. I’m a 34FF/G with a 34 waist and 40 hip. With Cashmerette I lengthen the bodice/drop the dart and I am all set. I’m 6’ tall. There are patterns for knits and wovens. Thanks
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Re: Fed up with FBAs! (posted on 11/16/17 1:17 AM ET)
I suggest Cashmerette. I also find I don't need a FBA when using Lutterloh.
  
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