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And also, where to move a dart (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 1/21/18 3:53 PM ET
I'm copying the skirt from https://kwiksew.mccall.com/k4111. I'll be using a lightweight, drapey woven fabric as the pattern recommends.
The pleats on the Kwik Sew pattern are folded so that they are open towards the center front. I'm thinking that I'd like them to be open towards the side seam. However, I can't get my head around whether that will change the drape of the overskirt or not.
Also for the overskirt, I've eliminated the dart on the left side of my sloper by taking it to the side seam. Does that sound right, or should I be moving it to the dart on the left side and using it within the pleats?
I'm probably over thinking these things by a mile but I'd be really thankful if I could get an opinion on these drafting question.
The pleats on the Kwik Sew pattern are folded so that they are open towards the center front. I'm thinking that I'd like them to be open towards the side seam. However, I can't get my head around whether that will change the drape of the overskirt or not.
Also for the overskirt, I've eliminated the dart on the left side of my sloper by taking it to the side seam. Does that sound right, or should I be moving it to the dart on the left side and using it within the pleats?
I'm probably over thinking these things by a mile but I'd be really thankful if I could get an opinion on these drafting question.
Posted on: 1/21/18 4:02 PM ET
In reply to Tizmehr
Which way you fold the pleats on the overlap of the skirt is pretty immaterial from drape standpoint, but it may cause you trouble with the narrow seam allowances KS usually uses. Fold the tissue and make sure you've got adequate seam allowance to sew with.
The second question, "I've eliminated the dart on the left side of my sloper"... Are you working with a sloper, or this pattern? Which dart did you eliminate? Bodice or skirt? Front or back? Sorry, I'm a little lost on this one.
The second question, "I've eliminated the dart on the left side of my sloper"... Are you working with a sloper, or this pattern? Which dart did you eliminate? Bodice or skirt? Front or back? Sorry, I'm a little lost on this one.
Posted on: 1/21/18 4:53 PM ET
Thanks for the info on the pleats, Kayl. I feel better now.
I am working with a sloper and trying to copy the KS pattern. So no worry about narrow seam allowance.
I have eliminated the dart on the right side of the skirt front.
Sorry I probably confused you be saying the dart on the wrong side on the original post.
-- Edited on 1/21/18 at 4:54 PM --
I am working with a sloper and trying to copy the KS pattern. So no worry about narrow seam allowance.
I have eliminated the dart on the right side of the skirt front.
Sorry I probably confused you be saying the dart on the wrong side on the original post.
-- Edited on 1/21/18 at 4:54 PM --
Posted on: 1/21/18 8:54 PM ET
In reply to Tizmehr
Ah, well, you don't want to eliminate the dart on the skirt front... it's the shaping. But you can certainly incorporate the dart uptake into tucks and provide the same shaping, just a different format, just as you can turn a dart into gathers, or gathers into darts.
Posted on: 1/22/18 8:08 AM ET
In reply to kayl
Sorry Kayl, maybe I'm not being clear. Let me try to explain again. There are darts on both sides of the underskirt. However, the Kwik Sew pattern shows no dart on the right side of the right hand side of the overskirt. It only has tucks on the left hand side. That's why my question about whether I should eliminate that dart on the right hand side by taking it off the side seam or should I move the dart to the other side of the skirt and including it in the tucks.
Posted on: 1/25/18 5:59 PM ET
I disagree. The direction of the pleats will effect the final look of the skirt. Pleats turned toward center front will make your tummy look flatter. Pleats turned toward your side seam will make your hips look wider. This has really helped me over the years with my wide hips. Courtesy Sandra Betzina.
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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 1/25/18 7:32 PM ET
In reply to solosmocker
I'd love to see a series of threads, for example:
To minimize wide hips, do/don't do this...
To minimize a large abdomen, do/don't do this...
To maximize a small bust, do/don't do this...
There are style guides that make recommendations, but it would help to see the discussion at the level of the pattern.
To minimize wide hips, do/don't do this...
To minimize a large abdomen, do/don't do this...
To maximize a small bust, do/don't do this...
There are style guides that make recommendations, but it would help to see the discussion at the level of the pattern.
Posted on: 1/26/18 7:31 AM ET
In reply to pointpatou
Excellent idea Pointpatou! Why don't you start a new topic, copy Solosmocker's post to it, and perhaps even ask to have it pinned. I can see this being an extremely useful & helpful resource to all.
After all, how many sewists have had the experience of creating something with beautifully executed details showing off their honed technical skills, perhaps in an expensive or otherwise really precious fabric, only to experience terrible disappointment when finally putting the garment on because it is just not flattering on them.
This sort of information is really hard to find out there in any one place.
After all, how many sewists have had the experience of creating something with beautifully executed details showing off their honed technical skills, perhaps in an expensive or otherwise really precious fabric, only to experience terrible disappointment when finally putting the garment on because it is just not flattering on them.
This sort of information is really hard to find out there in any one place.
Posted on: 1/26/18 7:32 AM ET
In reply to solosmocker
Excellent point and information solosmocker. Thank you for sharing such a valuable observation & tip.
Posted on: 1/26/18 7:40 AM ET
In reply to solosmocker
Well opening towards the center it is then! Thank you so much for this tip. I'd never heard that before but now, picturing the skirt I can see it very well. I had been worrying about the drape, not what it would do to my figure. Thanks again.
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