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can't seem to get them even (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 5/24/18 10:56 PM ET
What is the proper way to line up the jeans? If I lay them front to front, it's sometimes difficult to get the exact measurement from the center of the crotch. The insides (bottoms) versus outsides (tops) don't seem straight. Difficult to explain. If I fold them in half one way, they will seem pretty straight but then fold them the other way, they are off. I just want them to be even since I am doing the hemming for a paid customer! It seems that the outside of the leg might be longer or shorter than the inside. What's the proper way to line them up? I don't assume I'm starting with an even pair of pants to begin with. thanks for your help.
Posted on: 5/25/18 4:59 AM ET
If the jeans are badly made to begin with, put them on the customer, who is wearing appropriate shoes, and measure up from the floor, marking at some specified but too-high hemline, perhaps 3-6" from the floor. Mark both legs all around at that height. Now that you have a level line marked on both legs, measure down to the desired hemline and mark it. Hem and remove old chalklines.
Commodity jeans legs are typically drafted so the hem edge is level front and back. The true grainline should be CF and CB of the legging portion, and the hem 90 degrees to the straight of grain. Because denim is a twill weave, the hemline does not, then, fall on a single weft yarn, but is off by the amount of skew of the denim.
Commodity jeans legs are typically drafted so the hem edge is level front and back. The true grainline should be CF and CB of the legging portion, and the hem 90 degrees to the straight of grain. Because denim is a twill weave, the hemline does not, then, fall on a single weft yarn, but is off by the amount of skew of the denim.
Posted on: 5/25/18 8:57 AM ET
Fold in half, side to side and mark the hems. Baste in place and then try on to see if an adjustment needs to be made.
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OLD CHINESE PROVERB: I HEAR & I FORGET; I SEE & I REMEMBER; I DO & I UNDERSTAND.
Posted on: 5/25/18 9:41 PM ET
In reply to mendospot
Half the time jeans have wonky hems. And trying to compare the seam length on the inside of the legs has never worked for me either. I don't think there is an easy way.
I match up the side seams. Pin. And try on before I sew. If I'm having trouble, I fold and compare the lengths at the back of the leg where the heel of the foot would be. And pin that. I like my jeans a little long - which is good. A little extra length helps to disguise any uneven-ness. A shorter length seems to make unneven-ness more obvious.
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I match up the side seams. Pin. And try on before I sew. If I'm having trouble, I fold and compare the lengths at the back of the leg where the heel of the foot would be. And pin that. I like my jeans a little long - which is good. A little extra length helps to disguise any uneven-ness. A shorter length seems to make unneven-ness more obvious.
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Ana, the ripper
Posted on: 6/16/18 5:19 AM ET
Measure the inseams and outseams. Unless they are cut really wonky, the crotch seam - where the actual seam is (not top stitching) is centre. Figure how long you want the inseam. Try them on and stick a pin in each of the outseams at the level the pants hem runs straight across. If they've been cut decently, the amount you want to remove from the inseams should be the same amount on the outseams. If they are decently cut, if you shorten the inseam 3" you will shorten the outseam the same amount. Draw a straight line across both front and back, then fold at approx. centre and back of leg. If you get a sharp angle or wow in at the seam then you need to straighten it out. If cut right originally the line should run pretty straight across and not need fiddling with. Use chalk or Crayola brand washable marker. Try on before cutting and hemming.
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