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Member since 9/6/17
Posts: 391
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Posted on: 7/2/18 8:16 PM ET
Hi Ladies,

I'd like to sew a garment (pants and a blazer) using a cotton stretch sateen that has 30 percent stretch (the fabric has 3% Lycra). However, I'd like to line and underline respectively both the blazer and the pants. The pants will most likely be made using the Colette Clover Pant pattern. The lining fabric that I would like to get is 100 percent polyester Jersey lining. I would like to ask if that's acceptable for what I would like to do? Does the lining fabric have to be the exact same amount of stretch as the shell fabric?

Will I have a problem if I get this polyester Jersey lining fabric?
  
Member since 3/24/04
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Posted on: 7/2/18 8:22 PM ET
In reply to peaceinsewing
If the lining or underlining doesn't have at least as much stretch as the shell fabric, and you're depending on the stretch qualities for fit, you're going to have a real mismatch. You've also got a mismatch between woven (sateen) and knit (jersey) fabrics going on -- and I do my best not to mix woven with knits, because it never seems to go well for me.

With laundering, jerseys tend to get shorter and wider; sateens tend to shrink in both directions.
  
Member since 3/2/05
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Posted on: 7/3/18 0:34 AM ET
In reply to peaceinsewing
Unless you want to feel like you are in a sauna, do not line (or underline) your garment with polyester. Your finished pantsuit will not breathe and I don't think you are going to like the end result. Why are you going to underline the fabric? Typically, this fabric has a lot of body and doesn't need to be underlined. I would look at stretch light-weight silk fabrics. Yes, they cost more; but, you will be much happier in the end.
  
Member since 9/6/17
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Posted on: 7/5/18 6:27 PM ET
In reply to Alania
Quote: Alania
Why are you going to underline the fabric? Typically, this fabric has a lot of body and doesn't need to be underlined. I would look at stretch light-weight silk fabrics. Yes, they cost more; but, you will be much happier in the end.

I wanted to underline the stretch sateen fabric to protect it and have a better finished garment. The idea of a close fitting garment in this fabric without some sort of lining seems very strange to me. Should the silk that you recommended be of an identical stretch as the shell fabric (the cotton stretch sateen)?
  
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