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Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952
Posted on: 8/5/18 3:20 PM ET
I made an FBA on a dress bodice and the toile is almost there, except that the dart tip seems to be in the wrong place. The side dart points out completely horizontal. Perpendicular to the side seam.
When I made the toile I found it was sitting low on my bust (hitting the lower part not the apex) and I needed more of that fullness up higher.
I don't want to/can't raise the entire dart. The dress has grown-on sleeves and at present I only have about an inch above the top dart leg before the curve for the sleeve starts and the bodice is quite short, so I want to be able to make the dart point more upwards but retain the same seam points on the side seam.
I tried simply redrawing from those two current dart side seam points to my new location, but when I got to folding the paper to cut my new dart legs I found my side seam looked very very weird, I'd need to cut very much inwards by about an inch to get the side seam straight and I don't want to reduce width across the bust.
Help
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When I made the toile I found it was sitting low on my bust (hitting the lower part not the apex) and I needed more of that fullness up higher.
I don't want to/can't raise the entire dart. The dress has grown-on sleeves and at present I only have about an inch above the top dart leg before the curve for the sleeve starts and the bodice is quite short, so I want to be able to make the dart point more upwards but retain the same seam points on the side seam.
I tried simply redrawing from those two current dart side seam points to my new location, but when I got to folding the paper to cut my new dart legs I found my side seam looked very very weird, I'd need to cut very much inwards by about an inch to get the side seam straight and I don't want to reduce width across the bust.
Help

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www.plusgirlsews.com
Posted on: 8/5/18 4:38 PM ET
1. Draw in the actual side seam.
2. Draw the dart from the side seam/old dart leg intersections to the new end point.
3. Add extra paper to the seam allowance area.
4. Fold out the new dart, disregarding anything happening at the seam allowance.
5. Draw in the new seam allowance and trim the excess paper.
6. Unfold the dart and press your pattern piece.
-- Edited on 8/5/18 at 4:39 PM --
2. Draw the dart from the side seam/old dart leg intersections to the new end point.
3. Add extra paper to the seam allowance area.
4. Fold out the new dart, disregarding anything happening at the seam allowance.
5. Draw in the new seam allowance and trim the excess paper.
6. Unfold the dart and press your pattern piece.
-- Edited on 8/5/18 at 4:39 PM --
Posted on: 8/6/18 2:43 AM ET
In reply to franhaselden
Coincidentally, just last week I tried taking a shortcut to pivot a dart to lower the point, in my case just a half inch lower, and I ended up starting over, retracing the front and going back to my usual method of drawing a rectangle around the dart, cutting it out, and moving it down. When I tried my "experiment", shall we say, I traced the dart on copy paper, cut it out, placed it over the existing dart at the side seam and pivoted it so the point was 1/2" down from the original point. I traced around my cut out dart in the position I wanted. It looked good and doable at that point, but when I folded it down it was wonky on the side seam and didn't look right. The back piece no longer fit the front piece smoothly at the side seam. It must be because I changed the angle of the dart and it no longer coincided with the part of the dart that sticks out beyond the side seam. Geez...I hope that makes sense. 

So I redid the whole thing the way I'm used to doing it. Here is a tutorial from Itch To Stitch: How to Easily Move Your Dart to Fit Your Figure and here are My Pics from Last Week using the rectangle method. HTH!
-- Edited on 8/6/18 at 2:47 AM --
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So I redid the whole thing the way I'm used to doing it. Here is a tutorial from Itch To Stitch: How to Easily Move Your Dart to Fit Your Figure and here are My Pics from Last Week using the rectangle method. HTH!
-- Edited on 8/6/18 at 2:47 AM --
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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Posted on: 8/6/18 4:55 AM ET
In reply to franhaselden
Quote:
but when I got to folding the paper to cut my new dart legs I found my side seam looked very very weird, I'd need to cut very much inwards by about an inch to get the side seam straight
but when I got to folding the paper to cut my new dart legs I found my side seam looked very very weird, I'd need to cut very much inwards by about an inch to get the side seam straight
I'm not sure if I can visualize from your description but did it look similar (of course not identical as what's shown here is a French dart) like this pattern piece?
If so, that's perfectly normal. Most bodices with a bust dart are constructed in a way that the fold line of a bust dart is a 90° angle to CF. As soon as you rotatate the angle - as described by Kayl above - the fold line is angled and SAs don't look as we ae used to.
-- Edited on 8/6/18 at 5:06 AM --
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For 2019 committed to:
- Continue using what I have (fabric, notions, patterns, books, mags, tips & tricks etc.).
- Strive to re-use 52 items from my upcycle cupboard.
- Continue purchasing fabric and patterns mindfully.
- Continue tracking my fabric stash.
- Resume tracking my pattern stash.
- Continue with RTW fast. Exceptions: bras, socks, panty hoses, shoes. Plus anything that coincidentally crosses my way and is a truly mindful purchase.
- Prioritize replacing some plain wardrobe basics (pillars or backbones) that are close or past their lifespan over adding fun, more exciting garments that I, strictly speaking, do not need (nice-to-haves).
2018 Summary:
- Used successfully what I had and bought mindfully, i.e. fabrics.
- Got a very good grip on my stash (measured and catalogued almost all of it) but failed to sew 10% down (got 9.28% done).
- Did not meet goal to make 50 projects (new, finish or re-use UFOs, upcycle, mend, repair).
- Key take away for 2019: Set fewer number-specific goals. My sewing should be driven by needs and love, not by achieving numbers.
- Continue using what I have (fabric, notions, patterns, books, mags, tips & tricks etc.).
- Strive to re-use 52 items from my upcycle cupboard.
- Continue purchasing fabric and patterns mindfully.
- Continue tracking my fabric stash.
- Resume tracking my pattern stash.
- Continue with RTW fast. Exceptions: bras, socks, panty hoses, shoes. Plus anything that coincidentally crosses my way and is a truly mindful purchase.
- Prioritize replacing some plain wardrobe basics (pillars or backbones) that are close or past their lifespan over adding fun, more exciting garments that I, strictly speaking, do not need (nice-to-haves).
2018 Summary:
- Used successfully what I had and bought mindfully, i.e. fabrics.
- Got a very good grip on my stash (measured and catalogued almost all of it) but failed to sew 10% down (got 9.28% done).
- Did not meet goal to make 50 projects (new, finish or re-use UFOs, upcycle, mend, repair).
- Key take away for 2019: Set fewer number-specific goals. My sewing should be driven by needs and love, not by achieving numbers.
Posted on: 8/6/18 5:20 PM ET
In reply to SewLibra
I know exactly what you mean because that's what happened to me. I know Kayl's method is how I normally change darts but when I got to the point of folding the dart and cutting my new side seam the side seam was so off. It just didn't look right.
Thanks for your help. I ended up finding a tutorial for a french dart which redraws through the centre of the dart then further down. It worked fairly well and the dart is better placed now though still a little bit low.
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Thanks for your help. I ended up finding a tutorial for a french dart which redraws through the centre of the dart then further down. It worked fairly well and the dart is better placed now though still a little bit low.
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www.plusgirlsews.com
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