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Question about drafting to get full bust fitted (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 10/15/18 7:29 PM ET
I am using my first Jalie pattern, the Helene jacket, and wondered about an FBA. I read the reviews of the pattern and no one mentioned doing an FBA. THe pattern says to use a knit that stretches both ways if you have a full bust, but too late, I already have fabric that doesn;t stretch that much vertically.
Anyway, any advice in your experience with Jalie in relation to the bust?
I have drafted some of my well fitting knit ready to wear jackets so I will compare them to the pattern as a start.
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Anyway, any advice in your experience with Jalie in relation to the bust?
I have drafted some of my well fitting knit ready to wear jackets so I will compare them to the pattern as a start.
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Shelley at Riverlea
Pfaff Creative 4, Pfaff 2056, several singer and white treadles, featherweight, elna serger, Janome Cover Pro 1000, La Vencadora, Eaton's handcrank (I love sewing machines, can you tell!)
Pfaff Creative 4, Pfaff 2056, several singer and white treadles, featherweight, elna serger, Janome Cover Pro 1000, La Vencadora, Eaton's handcrank (I love sewing machines, can you tell!)
Posted on: 10/16/18 1:18 AM ET
In reply to Shelmica2
I have added an FBA to many a Jalie pattern. They are drafted for a B cup and I've never had one with cup sizes. Go with your gut (and your measurements of course) and do the FBA if you need it. Consider that if your fabric has enough horizontal stretch you may be okay, but if you want the fabric to skim the body rather than negative ease it will be worth your while to add the extra ease. 
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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Posted on: 10/16/18 3:40 AM ET
In reply to Shelmica2
I always do a FBA for myself for Jalie patterns. I have a 4” difference bweteen high bust and full bust and even narrower shoulders.
Posted on: 10/16/18 8:16 AM ET
In reply to Shelmica2
I do full bust adjustments on just about anything! If you google full bust adjustment for knits you will find a lot of tutorials.
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So many projects, not enough time
At my house in VA:
Bernina Activa 220, Kaffe 475, B790
Singer 201-2, 221, BL Enlighten, BL Acclaim, BL Sashiko, BL Euphoria, Consew 75T, Tipton Boss
At my Lake House in PA:
"new" Bernina B570, Bernina 1010, Singer 503A, BL Evolution
http://sewingtechie.blogspot.com/
At my house in VA:
Bernina Activa 220, Kaffe 475, B790
Singer 201-2, 221, BL Enlighten, BL Acclaim, BL Sashiko, BL Euphoria, Consew 75T, Tipton Boss
At my Lake House in PA:
"new" Bernina B570, Bernina 1010, Singer 503A, BL Evolution
http://sewingtechie.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 10/16/18 8:28 AM ET
I usually do a FBA on just about everything I make. However, I have found that if I use my full bust measurement with Jalie patterns it hasn't been necessary. It worked for the Helene and a raglan sleeve turtleneck pattern. That's just my two cents : )
Posted on: 10/16/18 2:57 PM ET
Thank you so much for the advice. I ended up comparing the Jalie pattern to some jackets that fit me, and it looked like I could get away without the FBA. I am still working on the jacket but the bust fit is ok (but the shoulders are too big since I went with the larger pattern, so I am steeling myself to rip out the serging), probably because there is a little vertical stretch in my knit, and I was between sizes and used the larger one.
The jacket is really nice, I will try some other Jalie patterns after this.
Sounds as if most are doing an FBA on knits. The FBA has made such a difference on fit for me once I understood I needed it!
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The jacket is really nice, I will try some other Jalie patterns after this.
Sounds as if most are doing an FBA on knits. The FBA has made such a difference on fit for me once I understood I needed it!
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Shelley at Riverlea
Pfaff Creative 4, Pfaff 2056, several singer and white treadles, featherweight, elna serger, Janome Cover Pro 1000, La Vencadora, Eaton's handcrank (I love sewing machines, can you tell!)
Pfaff Creative 4, Pfaff 2056, several singer and white treadles, featherweight, elna serger, Janome Cover Pro 1000, La Vencadora, Eaton's handcrank (I love sewing machines, can you tell!)
Posted on: 10/16/18 3:10 PM ET
I have not made a true FBA on a Jalie pattern, but I have had to drop the bust point on the Jalie patterns that have an underbust seam. That doesn’t affect the Helene, but it might some of the others you try later.
Posted on: 10/17/18 5:14 AM ET
Thanks for this question. I am working on my first Jalie and did find it needed adjusting. I was too influenced by all the positive comments you hear about Jalie and decided not to try to change anything on this first go. I do love the way the pattern is drafted and I am sure there are several more Jalie patterns in my life. However, I will know in the future to shorten between shoulder and bust and maybe move the apex. I will also do an adjustment for the armscye gap which is a result of not doing the FBA ! So. Love your pattern, but don't be afraid to adjust it.
Posted on: 10/17/18 5:07 PM ET
When I have to do an FBA on knits, I remove the dart like in the tutorial below. It's #2 Dart Manipulation.
Remove Dart on Knits
-- Edited on 10/17/18 at 6:30 PM --
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Remove Dart on Knits
-- Edited on 10/17/18 at 6:30 PM --
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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Posted on: 10/19/18 3:40 PM ET
In reply to SewLibra
This (#2) is my favorite way to do an FBA with a knit - or even a less-fitted woven. It is a technique I had never seen before. Thanks for sharing!
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Tina
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