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Member since 11/26/16
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Posted on: 1/9/19 5:02 PM ET
I have been doing a lot of reading lately, specifically related to pattern adjustments, and I have found some discrepancies in a couple of them. I have always done length adjustments before width, which I always assumed meant any application to a bust adjustment. For instance, I would move the apex if needed, before doing a FBA or SBA. One article that I referenced stated to do the FBA/SBA first, then do the apex relocation. Honestly, I haven’t needed to do many apex moves, so my experience with that is limited. I have done the width adjustments without any problems. However, now I am faced with needing to adjust the apex on a pattern, and am somewhat confused if I should do this first, or do the SBA first?
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Glen22
  
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Posted on: 1/10/19 0:26 AM ET
I don't personally do FBAs, but I think I would do the apex location last, in case the FBA changes it. After the FBA, I would try on the muslin and see exactly where the apex needs to be.
  
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Posted on: 1/10/19 8:47 AM ET
IMHO:
I have been trapped by this issue myself and came to the conclusion that it depends on how large an FBA I have to make. If it is a small change such as I need on a good knit T shirt pattern then I move the apex first and re-evaluate after the FBA. If, however I need a larger adjustment I make the FBA first and then just bite the bullet and do the extra step of correcting the Apex. No, it's not your imagination--it is another extra step but you can get used to it!
  
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Posted on: 1/10/19 9:00 AM ET
In reply to alpenrose
Thank you, Alpenrose! Probably allowing extra material in the seam allowances also helps if needing to make those adjustments. I forgot to mention that I work almost exclusively with princess seams, so finding the apex on the pattern is a chore sometimes, as it usually isn't marked on the pattern that I use.
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Glen22
  
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Posted on: 1/10/19 9:04 AM ET
In reply to itssewover
In this situation, making a slight SBA for a youth with perky "girls"- her apex is definitely higher! Yet her bust circumference is as stated on the pattern. Using a princess seam pattern, where finding the apex is a challenge as the curve on the
SF is not all that pronounced.
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Glen22
  
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Posted on: 1/10/19 9:30 AM ET
In reply to glen22
Quote:
I forgot to mention that I work almost exclusively with princess seams,


If working on a princess seam garment - I move the height/level of the apex first then do the FBA.
Why?
1. - because of the final step of rotating out the side dart that forms and moving the amount into the centre panel. (For larger FBAs on princess lines, I prefer to move some of the dart into the hidden shoulder or armhole dart on a princess line.)
2. - for small FBAs up to approx 1cm I just adjust the seam allowances along the section it's needed but the apex must be corrected beforehand to do this 'width only 2nd step.
3. - sometimes it's more about adjusting the shaping for the breast mound rather than adding in fabric to accommodate size.
(comparison is with curving dart legs on bust darts to work with the position of fullness rather than amount)

If working with a standard FBA or a Y FBA I do the FBA first and then set the bust apex and when necessary correct the angle and end of any darts.
Why?
- because this type of FBA incorporates both width and length
- because on most FBAs more than 2cm, the shaping usually benefits from adjusting the angle and end of the dart(s) and that has to be done after settling on the final position of the bust apex position.

Also, on any V neck style with an FBA, (or a deep scoop) before finalising the bust adjustment, I always double check whether an additional neck gape dart needs to be made and rotated out and/or the depth of the V needs to be adjusted.
Why?
Because with larger bust cup sizes, depending on the position of the fullness of the bust, mounds or hollows on the upper chest have to be fitted and V or scoop necklines often have to be snugged in to avoid sagging, gaping or being too revealing.
-- Edited on 1/10/19 at 9:46 AM --
  
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Posted on: 1/10/19 11:36 AM ET
Length is always last on my list. That is because depth and width alterations most often will modify the length.
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Posted on: 1/10/19 1:04 PM ET
In reply to Whispers
Thank you, Whispers, for your detailed reply. I will need to study this a bit but I believe it makes sense!
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Glen22
  
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Posted on: 1/10/19 1:06 PM ET
In reply to kevinsews
Kevinsews- do you mean you always adjust length last in the bust adjustment phase, or in general?
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Glen22
  
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Posted on: 1/10/19 10:33 PM ET
In reply to Whispers
I am always so grateful for your comments--your experience and explanations are a gift!
A
  
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