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Member since 10/22/18
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Posted on: 5/12/19 6:34 AM ET
Hello
I thought I could manage darts but I am seeing articles that suggest to me that I might not be doing them in the best way. For instance, I have read; No backstitching and tying the ends instead, even beginning the dart in the middle. What is the best way of finishing darts please.
  
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Posted on: 5/12/19 10:39 AM ET
In reply to sewing4therapy
I suspect that if 4 people replied to your question, you could easily get 4 different answers.

My own dart process is to use a very tight stitch for the first 1/4”, then I return stitch length to what I am using for that garment. When I am within 1/4” or so of the dart tip, I shorten the stitch length again. I prefer to tie off the threads with a square knot and clip the thread ends. This is what works best for me. Please note that I have been sewing for close to 60 years. I started doing this maybe 12-15 years ago. So, one can always learn something new.

What you might do is grab a scrap of cotton muslin and test different methods of sewing a dart. Go with the one that gives you the nicest results.


-- Edited on 5/12/19 at 10:40 AM --
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Posted on: 5/12/19 11:41 AM ET
In reply to EleanorSews
Thanks EleanorSews I will try that.
  
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Posted on: 5/12/19 11:53 AM ET
I do the same as Eleanor but I use the chain stitch on my coverstitch machine, which provides a little stretchability. I always start at the side seam and sew toward the bust apex.
  
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Posted on: 5/12/19 12:00 PM ET
It also depends on the type of dart. I've only seen the "start in the middle" guidance for fisheye/contour/double-ended darts (eg, might be used in a dress without a waist seam, have two pointy ends). Waist darts only have one end. The goal is to get the pointy ends smooth as possible, which generally means making the sewing line a very gradual slant as you come to the dart tip. Agreed the best way is to test out a few ways and see what you like, and can consistently replicate.

Personally, I avoid fisheye darts because they annoy me and I'd rather mark and sew princess seams, so for waist darts, I generally shorten stitches as I approach the tip, try to stitch right along the fold and taper off the fabric entirely, then pull to get a little extra thread and quickly tack/backstitch it in the dart seam allowance. So it's secured, but not right at the tip where backstitch might make the tip bumpy.
-- Edited on 5/12/19 at 12:03 PM --
-- Edited on 5/12/19 at 12:05 PM --
  
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Posted on: 5/12/19 12:47 PM ET
In reply to daiyami
thanks for the ideas I will practise.
  
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Posted on: 5/12/19 2:10 PM ET
I get the best results by stitching darts from the side seam to the tip, from the seamline to the tip on a dior dart, or from the waist seam to the tips on either end on double-ended darts.
I mark the end/tip of the dart with a pin, and will shoot right across the edge, no back stitches. I tie the thread ends very loosely, to avoid silly folds on the right side. Then, I carefully set the stitches by pressing flat from the left (do not press past the tip..), then shape the dart from the right across the edge of the ironing board or tailor's ham.
If I'm working with bulky fabrics, I cut the dart open, a few millimeters short of the tip, and then open and press.
  
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Posted on: 5/13/19 12:28 PM ET
I, too, have been sewing for about 60 years and have used every dart termination sewing method out there. I've actually returned to the very first method I was ever taught (by my mom - thanks, Mom...miss you!): sew from the seam edge with a standard 2.5mm stitch, and keep sewing off the fabric at the dart point for about 1.5 inches. Without cutting the thread tail, move the fabric back under the foot and tack the thread tail down in the body of the dart with a few back and forth stitches.

When I started using this method again, I was skeptical that the point of the dart would stay stitched. It always has.
  
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Posted on: 5/13/19 7:58 PM ET
In reply to sewing4therapy
I do my darts a bit differently and I am not sure where I learned this. I've tried probably most methods but I like the solid stitching I get with this one and no bubbling at the tip either. There is no tying of threads or traditional back stitching. I always dial down my stitch length rather than back stitch. How to actually sew the dart is midway through the article but there is other good dart info before and after.

Sewing a dart
-- Edited on 5/13/19 at 8:10 PM --
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Posted on: 5/13/19 8:49 PM ET
There are many ways to sew a dart. Almost invariably, I have been taught to start from the seam allowance and sew to the vanishing point. The one exception to that I've ever seen was in a Bluprint/Craftsy class by Alison Smith. She teaches couture sewing, her work is beautiful, and she was honored by Queen Elizabeth, so who am I to criticize? She starts at the point. I may try that sometime.

The techniques used depend on one skill, time, comfort level, and perfectionism. Here are some choices:

Marking
Clip the ends of the dart legs. For some people, it's obvious where to stop.
1/2" before the vanishing point, make a small hole with an awl. Sew the 1/2" beyond and stop. When the dart is sewn it hides the hole.
Place a pin at the vanishing point or make a chalk mark.
Tailor tack the dart ends and the point.
Chalk the entire dart.
Thread trace the entire dart.

Before Sewing

Hold the dart in place with your fingers.
Pin the dart.
Baste dart.


Starting
Backstitch at the seam allowance. If the dart is to be covered by another seam, it may not be necessary, I think it's a good idea unless a lot of bulk is created.
Reduce the stitch length at the seam allowance.
For fish-eye darts, I've seen advice saying to start in the middle and sew to each end as well as to sew from one end to the other. I didn't notice a difference.

Sew straight off the edge of the fabric
Put the last three stitches on the fold. This produces a flatter dart.

Ending
Reduce the stitch length.
Leave long tails and double knot.
Leave long tails, thread them into a needle (a calyx needle is helpful) and hand tack them (take a couple of stitches in the same place). Produces a less bulky dart end.

These suggestions are for basic darts. There's a technique for sewing sheer darts and another for sewing darts in heavy fabric.
  
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