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Stretch formal dresses (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 5/30/19 1:57 PM ET
Several prom dresses have been appearing that their outer (chiffon) layer is not chiffon at all, but a sheer stretch fabric that somewhat mimics chiffon. Moreover the original hem is straight stitched with a 1/4" rolled hem. Now obviously the thread has to have been a stretch thread like Eloflex or such, but I have yet to get the fabric to feed correctly into any form of a rolled hem foot. Any suggestions?
Posted on: 5/30/19 2:04 PM ET
A serged rolled hem might be ideal for these dresses. I'm thinking the outer layer might be mesh, which is super stretchy but won't roll well at 1/4 inch.
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Sewing keeps me sane.
My herd includes a Singer Sewhandy, Bernina Artista 180, vintage Bernina 830 Record, Pfaff 794 serger, Juki 634D, Babylock BLCS2, Singer Slant Needle 403 from my grandmother, a Husqvarna 6570, a Viking Quilt Designer SE and my latest bargain Janome MC 10000.
My herd includes a Singer Sewhandy, Bernina Artista 180, vintage Bernina 830 Record, Pfaff 794 serger, Juki 634D, Babylock BLCS2, Singer Slant Needle 403 from my grandmother, a Husqvarna 6570, a Viking Quilt Designer SE and my latest bargain Janome MC 10000.
Posted on: 5/30/19 2:13 PM ET
I would think regular thread and a straight stitch would be sufficient stretch. Given the stitch passes through three layers, the depth adds mechanical stretch. I'm not sure why it doesn't work with a rolled hem foot, though. I've done rolled hems on stretch mesh, but not what you're describing.
Posted on: 5/30/19 2:59 PM ET

If you got a 1/4 inch hemmer you can fasten to an overlocker and sew with a chain stitch, maybe try that? Maybe it would go through those better, just because of the huge presser foot and differential feed even possibly.
If you actually just turn it under with your fingers, than hand baste it, then sew over it, with a sewing machine, it probably has to work though- but slow.
Posted on: 5/30/19 3:11 PM ET
I think factories cheat too. Rather than get some metal hemmer with curls of metal in it and try to match that up to some fabric, and make it work, I think they just send in the fabric in someplace, (like to the metal workers place) and have someone make metal curls special and just right (space wise) for any particular fabric, if they want.
Posted on: 5/30/19 3:54 PM ET
Sounds like stretch mesh or glissenette (does it have a bit of a shimmer?)
I hem the majority of my stretch mesh/glissenette using the rolled hem setting on my serger unless the client asks for something different. I have also done fishline hems to get more curl.
I use regular polyester serger thread (sometimes I use metallic in the 2 loopers - if you do 2 rounds with this you don't need to use fishline).
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I hem the majority of my stretch mesh/glissenette using the rolled hem setting on my serger unless the client asks for something different. I have also done fishline hems to get more curl.
I use regular polyester serger thread (sometimes I use metallic in the 2 loopers - if you do 2 rounds with this you don't need to use fishline).
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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)
2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)
2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
Posted on: 5/30/19 4:23 PM ET
In reply to Lynn Scott
Your right-- it is a sort of mesh, but the original hem was a rolled elastic straight stitch.
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Member since 12/31/03
Posts: 3011
Contest Committee
Member since 12/31/03
Posts: 3011
Ontario Canada
Skill: Advanced
Skill: Advanced
Posted on: 5/30/19 4:25 PM ET
Have you experimented using the Banroll method? I've hemmed using this method for a long time and it's worth a try. Here are a couple of links. Ageberry's tutorial Oliver and S Tutorlal
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Connie Bontje
Facebook: Connie Bontje
Desperately trying to keep ahead of my pattern, fabric and dressform collection!
Facebook: Connie Bontje
Desperately trying to keep ahead of my pattern, fabric and dressform collection!
Posted on: 5/30/19 5:08 PM ET
In reply to ConnieBJ
Thanks Connie - will have to give this a try and see how it works on stretch fabrics.
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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)
2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)
2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
Posted on: 5/30/19 5:24 PM ET
I've had a couple of these come through my door this spring, too, and I already hate them! I've had success with my smallest rolled hem foot. Definitely needs a new needle, but I haven't figured out yet which kind will be best to prevent skipped stitches. There was a small amount of stretching/ruffling when i was done but I was able to eliminate it with a low iron temp and a spray bottle.
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