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Member since 4/5/17
Posts: 823
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Posted on: 7/24/19 2:35 PM ET
I found several tutorials on how to lower a bust dart but:

1. Nothing is said about the waist dart, if you lower the bust dart would you need to lower the waist dart as well?

2. Can i just lengthen the space right under the armscye (between the armscye and the top of the dart) instead of moving the entire dart--this will both lengthen the bodice and also lower the bust point.
  
Member since 3/24/04
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Posted on: 7/24/19 4:11 PM ET
In reply to MagnoliaV
1. Yes, if you use the conventional "draw a box" method. Otherwise the top of the fisheye dart may extend beyond the bustpoint -- not your best look . Just back the top of the fisheye dart off the amount you lowered the bust dart.

2. Sure, if you need length in that area. Otherwise, you're going to have to compensate the length lower.

Remember that the side seam, front and back, should be on the same grain angle and of the same length when you're done adjusting the pattern.
-- Edited on 7/24/19 at 4:13 PM --
  
Member since 5/6/13
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Posted on: 8/29/19 4:23 AM ET
If you want to lower a side seam bust dart, yes, just split the pattern the required amount below the armscye and remove the same amount from the location of the waist. Remember it will change the placement and matching of any notches so they will need adjustment. If you want to lower a the apex of a vertical dart yet do not need a lower waistline, lower the top of the dart and blend its line down to the waistline.


There are numerous websites and some youtubes online. google dart manipulation. Essentially, darts can be moved anywhere you want. What you take away in one place you add back in another. Once understood the dart manipulation concept can really help with fitting and design issues.
  
Member since 1/27/15
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Posted on: 8/29/19 10:47 AM ET
In reply to kayl
I always do the box method on Big 4 patterns, which seem to design for a bust that's a lot higher than where it sits on 49-year-old me.
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