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Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952
Posted on: 12/15/05 9:47 AM ET
I've tried several jacket patterns and still can't seem to get them to fit the way I want! It seems like they are all too big in the arms and right under my arms if they fit in the waist. And, for some reason, I have to wear all of my jackets buttoned up or they kind of "wing out" at the bottom (pull to the back). Anyone have a solution or a great pattern suggestion? I'd really appreciate the help!
Posted on: 12/15/05 9:55 AM ET
In reply to annemarie3
Do you want to post a picture and maybe some body measurements so that we can help you? It sounds like you need a smaller size in the shoulders/sleeves and then add at the bust, waist and hip. You didn't say anything about the fit at the bust, but I am guessing, because you say that the sleeves are too big, that you are full busted and that you chose a size to fit your bust instead of a smaller size with a full bust adjustment.
Posted on: 12/15/05 10:02 AM ET
In reply to redhead
I can't post a pic right now but I'm not full-busted, by any stretch!! I'm a 34b, waist 29, hips 36. I do have small, skinny arms so I may need to just adjust the sleeves, but I'm really new to all these fitting techniques so I may be using the wrong size. I guess its the way it pulls to the back that bothers me the most!
Posted on: 12/15/05 10:18 AM ET
In reply to annemarie3
Ok, I sure misinterpreted the problem, didn't I! You can raise the armhole a little bit and then also narrow your sleeve some. I have never done this myself, so I can't tell you the armhole math exactly, but a fitting book from the library would help.
As far as the jacket winging back, you may just need a little extra room in the back of the jacket, which you could get by letting out the back princess seams if your jacket has them and even a little at the side seam if necessary.
The thing that I am getting more sophisticated at these days is the question of my front and back measurements. I had a real epiphany a few years back when I realized that I could let out the back of the pants while leaving the front the same--there's no need to let them both out equally to make more room. In addition, my bust may be 34, but because of my posture, my back is much narrower than normal, and my front is wider than normal. This may be what is happening to you except that it is occurring only at the bottom of your jacket. You are 36" around, but it may be that it matters quite a bit where the fullness is located. Am I closing in on your issue?
As far as the jacket winging back, you may just need a little extra room in the back of the jacket, which you could get by letting out the back princess seams if your jacket has them and even a little at the side seam if necessary.
The thing that I am getting more sophisticated at these days is the question of my front and back measurements. I had a real epiphany a few years back when I realized that I could let out the back of the pants while leaving the front the same--there's no need to let them both out equally to make more room. In addition, my bust may be 34, but because of my posture, my back is much narrower than normal, and my front is wider than normal. This may be what is happening to you except that it is occurring only at the bottom of your jacket. You are 36" around, but it may be that it matters quite a bit where the fullness is located. Am I closing in on your issue?
Posted on: 12/15/05 10:31 AM ET
In reply to redhead
I think that may be it! I'll have to try it and see, and maybe do a better job of measuring myself. I definitely think you have the right idea about the sleeves.
Can you recommend a good fitting book? I've been sewing for years and used to be able to use almost any pattern w/o changes but as I'm getting older and my weight is shifting/growing
I'm running into these issues! Thanks so much for your help.
Can you recommend a good fitting book? I've been sewing for years and used to be able to use almost any pattern w/o changes but as I'm getting older and my weight is shifting/growing
I'm running into these issues! Thanks so much for your help.
Posted on: 12/15/05 12:20 PM ET
I have too much fabric under arms often too. I have found out that I have narrow upper body (not the bust). When you look at the pattern pieces they show considerable increase from waist point to the armhole point (talking about the side seam on the bodice). It is sort of like an inverted trapesoid. When I look in the mirror, I have much less of the increase, almost like a rectangle. I have straigtened the upper portion of my side seams and it took care of extra fabric under arms. I retrace the unaltered armhole after changing the side seams. I am not sure what it will do for the "wing out" however.
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Posted on: 12/15/05 1:01 PM ET
In reply to annemarie3
I have pretty close to the same measurements and I cut a size 12. I do confess to having pretty bulky arms but just an FYI re the pattern size.
Posted on: 12/15/05 1:18 PM ET
In reply to Nata
Nata, I think that may be a big part of my problem--I'll look at my pattern when I get home. Do you just kind of draw a line stright from the waist up or do you take some of the waist curve out too (if that makes any sense!)?
SewLily, I was using a size 12 also--it must just be my funky measurements!!
Thanks for the help!
SewLily, I was using a size 12 also--it must just be my funky measurements!!
Thanks for the help!
Posted on: 12/15/05 3:23 PM ET
In reply to annemarie3
Do you possibly have square shoulders? That might cause the jacket to wing out in the back. If I don't reduce the slope of my shoulder seams, my jackets swing open from the center front.
Posted on: 12/15/05 5:01 PM ET
In reply to annemarie3
The first time I've done it I pinched out all that extra fabric under the arm and noted how deep the pinch was. Then I just redrew my sideseams. I don't scoop out the side seam at the waist. Just for the reference I took in about 1" tuck, that's 4" all around. It was very close fitting jacket though. The looser the fit, the less I need to pinch out. After I've done it once, I eyeball it. Or, I pinch out if I make a muslin
On the wide sleeves subject. I am 5"3" so I shorten my front about 1.5" above the high bust point. I make a tuck through the middle of armhole, and another one just under the armhole. I have 2 jackets so far when I needed to narrow the sleeve. Instead of making a horizontal tuck through the cup of the sleeve to fit it into new armhole, I make two vertical tucks parralel to the grainline on both sides of the middle of the cap. That reduces the ease and the width. Hope it makes sence
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On the wide sleeves subject. I am 5"3" so I shorten my front about 1.5" above the high bust point. I make a tuck through the middle of armhole, and another one just under the armhole. I have 2 jackets so far when I needed to narrow the sleeve. Instead of making a horizontal tuck through the cup of the sleeve to fit it into new armhole, I make two vertical tucks parralel to the grainline on both sides of the middle of the cap. That reduces the ease and the width. Hope it makes sence
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