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Member since 12/21/19
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Posted on: 5/12/20 5:39 AM ET
I will start off by saying that the fabric that I use have spandex so it is more prone to shrinkage when heat is applied. I only have this issue when I am sewing with thin fabric.

When I do the collarstand, the fabric will be ironed 3 times. The first time will be when I'm shrinking the fabric before I cut it. A higher heat setting is used. The second time would be when i'm applying interfacing and the third time is when I'm pressing down the extra fabric on towards the interfacing. For this step, I use a thick paper to act as a barrier between the the fabric/interfacing and the new fold I am creating, so that only the new fold is being heated. Also For both of these times, a lower heat setting is used. I am also using a press cloth.

Now, when I am sewing the collarstand and collar together, most times, the collarstand side that has the interfacing on it is smaller than the other collarstand that does not have interfacing on it.

Any advice is appreciated.
  
Member since 3/24/04
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Posted on: 5/12/20 6:09 AM ET
1. Have you considered block fusing?
2. Is this production sewing? If so, consider compensating at the pattern stage.
3. Have you considered a non-fusible interfacing?
  
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Posted on: 5/12/20 6:16 AM ET
I wonder if it might be the interfacing that is shrinking, drawing the fabric along with it.
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Posted on: 5/12/20 6:30 AM ET
Kayl: This is not production sewing, but how would I take into consideration the shrinkage when I am at the pattern stage? the shrinkage is very unpredictable and is on a case-by-case basis depending on the fabric that is being used. I have not considered non-fusible. I did not considering block fusing because I didn't know how the added bulkiness along the seam would play out when it comes to folding the collar down on the finished garment but it is something I will try.

mhk: I have not preshrunk the interfacing, I honestly did not know that the interface could shrink too lol. I will press it and shrink it with the fabric before I could it.

thank you both :)
  
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Posted on: 5/12/20 6:53 AM ET
In reply to genejung
Ah, when dealing with shrinkage that is not repeatable, you cannot compensate at the pattern stage.

What are you using for fusible? I typically use a very thin, light interfacing and don't find it objectionable when block fused.

There is video on youtube of a very experienced tailor constructing a collar and stand with a non-fusible. The way he's doing it looks pretty ad hoc, and the construction pressing is entirely finger pressing. I will try to look that url out for you... I think it bears study, though I would personally be happier if I had cut the interfacing from a pattern rather than his method.
  
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Posted on: 5/12/20 7:51 AM ET
In reply to genejung
Here is one interfacing that claims not to shrink, but the company does not ship to Canada. Fashion Sewing Supply I have read that there are other brands that do not shrink, and maybe someone else can suggest one. (I’m still using my supply from the company linked, purchased while they were still shipping to Canada.)

If you want to preshrink interfacing, I think you should not use your iron. Instead I would just just soak it briefly in very hot water, then hang to dry.

I don’t know enough about interfacing to be able to give much useful advice, but my experience is that there is good stuff and bad stuff, so finding the right interfacing is one of the things you need to do to end up with good results. There was a time when pretty much all fusible interfacing eventually failed by bubbling or unfusing itself, but I think there is good quality interfacing available now, you just have to find it.


-- Edited on 5/12/20 at 7:52 AM --
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Canada Plant Hardiness Zone 5b
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Member since 12/25/04
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Posted on: 5/12/20 9:02 AM ET
In reply to genejung
Re the interfacing info mhk gave you - same types of interfacing is available in Toronto. Try McFab Fabrics and Neverin Tailoring (queen w). Just buy a little bit and try it for samples first - Neverin has quite a selection in the back. My everyday interfacing come from McFab and is called "mathews interfacing' . It's a bit light for men's shirt collars, although I've used double layers of it with no problem. It creates a softer and less structured stand.
  
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Posted on: 5/12/20 2:11 PM ET
In reply to genejung
Turns out *you* were the one that brought the experienced tailor video to my attention:
https://youtu.be/vCkuOci0ukQ?t=36

What he's doing with the hard fold and running his finger along it is called "finger pressing", and because the interfacing he used was fairly firm, the fabric cooperates and folds over nicely, which doesn't require you to use heat at all. Your finger gets sore after awhile, but the quilt market has come up with a gadget called "My Little Wooden Iron"

that substitutes for your finger and gives you a nice fingerpress. Bet you can come up with something similar around the house.
Most of the stretch fabrics will not fingerpress as well as a plain cotton shirting, but I think it may work well enough for you, and avoid the iron heat.

If you want to use nonfusible interfacing, just "temporarily" affix the interfacing to the fabric with a few dots of water soluble glue or gluestick, like the Elmer's School Glue product.

Just for grins, though... got some scrap of the interfacing you use, your shirt fabric and some cotton muslin? Try 1. Draw a measured square on your interfacing -- say 3x3" or 10x10 cm. Fuse it to a scrap of preshrunk muslin. Measure the square. 2. Draw a measured square on your shirt scrap, same size. Act like you're fusing interfacing to it... same heat, same time. Let it cool and remeasure. Which is shrinking, the interfacing or the shirt fabric?
  
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Posted on: 5/13/20 11:11 AM ET
You don't have to be doing production sewing to block fuse your fabric and interfacing. Second, rather than just press the fabric to shrink it, how about washing and drying in hot water and heat to do that uniformly to the yardage?
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Member since 12/21/19
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Posted on: 5/14/20 6:18 AM ET
I've tried block fusing and I am really loving it. Both collarstand pieces match identically when I am sewing it. I've block fused the cuffs and collar as well. I think that this is the method that I will use. I really like the link you posted. I've learned a lot from watching the video. A couple months ago I actually tried to copy his method but it was very difficult to follow along, especially since I am not that great when it comes to the scissors. Any cutting I have to do I prefer to have cut with my pattern pieces rather than how he "freestyles". I really did consider his method though, but I figured that my simple collar method works as well, except for the shrinking, which the block-fusing have solved. I am not a fan of finger pressing haha I feel that it is not as secure. I am the type of person that uses fabric glue to glue down the seam allowance in the corners of the collarstand, just to make it a bit easier to sew.

Neverins is an okay place. I have a few interfacing I have that I bought from there but the interfacing bubbles onto the fabric. I get my interfacing from the store across from Neverins called Downtown Fabrics, and it doesn't bubble. I will check out mcfabs when they open up again.

  
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