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Member since 4/18/20
Posts: 18
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Posted on: 6/27/20 1:19 PM ET
Hi there, I bought a piece of knit fabric to make a shirt. I've read that the wale of the knit fabric should be vertical, and should also be the direction of least stretch. Conversely, the crosswise direction should have more stretch.



So I look at the fabric (in the photo) and think that since I can see some ribbings (left half of photo), that must be the vertical wales. But I notice that when I stretch the fabric vertically in the direction of these ribbings, I think it stretches more than if I stretch them crosswise. I could be wrong though and may have applied different amounts of force each time without realising it.

Therefore, did I mistake this direction (the red arrow) as the vertical direction, or am I correct?

In the past, I've sewn with jersey knits before without any problems or confusion, but I suspect this new fabric isn't jersey at all.
-- Edited on 6/27/20 at 1:21 PM --
-- Edited on 6/27/20 at 1:21 PM --
  
Member since 5/28/11
Posts: 10718
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Posted on: 6/27/20 1:28 PM ET
Yes, you found the vertical. That is very stretchy fabric. It will definitely stretch more on the crosswise. I would cut it one layer at a time and not try folding it over.
  
Member since 4/18/20
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Posted on: 6/27/20 1:30 PM ET
In reply to Marie367
Thanks. What's the name of this fabric?
  
Member since 5/28/11
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Posted on: 6/27/20 1:31 PM ET
In reply to mbwndhoufk
It looks like a sweater knit.
  
Member since 4/18/20
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Posted on: 7/1/20 8:22 PM ET
Follow up question: now that I've identified the vertical grain, I notice that the vertical grains aren't straight, nor are they parallel to each other. I think I've prewashed the fabric enough (submerged and agitate in hot water, twice already), and I hope the fabric is relaxed enough.

Is it worth it to block the fabric to force the vertical grain lines to be straight and parallel before I cut? Or should I proceed to cut my pieces whilst the fabric lies relaxed on my table?
  
Member since 3/24/04
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Posted on: 7/1/20 8:29 PM ET
In reply to mbwndhoufk
You can try blocking... that appears to be a double knit, so I am not sure how well it will do in blocking, but certainly worth a try.

I would be more likely to dampen it thouroughly, give it a good long ride on a cool dryer, and then spread it, still slightly damp to finish drying flat on a table. Peel it up, lay it back down again, let it relax 24 hours, then cut single ply.
  
Member since 5/17/20
Posts: 36
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Posted on: 7/2/20 1:07 PM ET
Greetings,

That looks like a Knit 1/ Purl 1 ribbed knit to me. Super stretchy stitch. Have you tried blocking it with a slightly weighted top layer? Maybe that could help?
  
Member since 8/29/06
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Posted on: 7/3/20 5:21 AM ET
In reply to dotStitch
Quote:
looks like a Knit 1/ Purl 1 ribbed knit to me.

That's what I say too.
  
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