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Knit fabric stretches more in an unexpected direction (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 6/27/20 1:19 PM ET
Hi there, I bought a piece of knit fabric to make a shirt. I've read that the wale of the knit fabric should be vertical, and should also be the direction of least stretch. Conversely, the crosswise direction should have more stretch.

So I look at the fabric (in the photo) and think that since I can see some ribbings (left half of photo), that must be the vertical wales. But I notice that when I stretch the fabric vertically in the direction of these ribbings, I think it stretches more than if I stretch them crosswise. I could be wrong though and may have applied different amounts of force each time without realising it.
Therefore, did I mistake this direction (the red arrow) as the vertical direction, or am I correct?
In the past, I've sewn with jersey knits before without any problems or confusion, but I suspect this new fabric isn't jersey at all.
-- Edited on 6/27/20 at 1:21 PM --
-- Edited on 6/27/20 at 1:21 PM --

So I look at the fabric (in the photo) and think that since I can see some ribbings (left half of photo), that must be the vertical wales. But I notice that when I stretch the fabric vertically in the direction of these ribbings, I think it stretches more than if I stretch them crosswise. I could be wrong though and may have applied different amounts of force each time without realising it.
Therefore, did I mistake this direction (the red arrow) as the vertical direction, or am I correct?
In the past, I've sewn with jersey knits before without any problems or confusion, but I suspect this new fabric isn't jersey at all.
-- Edited on 6/27/20 at 1:21 PM --
-- Edited on 6/27/20 at 1:21 PM --
Posted on: 6/27/20 1:28 PM ET
Yes, you found the vertical. That is very stretchy fabric. It will definitely stretch more on the crosswise. I would cut it one layer at a time and not try folding it over.
Posted on: 6/27/20 1:30 PM ET
In reply to Marie367
Thanks. What's the name of this fabric?
Posted on: 6/27/20 1:31 PM ET
In reply to mbwndhoufk
It looks like a sweater knit.
Posted on: 7/1/20 8:22 PM ET
Follow up question: now that I've identified the vertical grain, I notice that the vertical grains aren't straight, nor are they parallel to each other. I think I've prewashed the fabric enough (submerged and agitate in hot water, twice already), and I hope the fabric is relaxed enough.
Is it worth it to block the fabric to force the vertical grain lines to be straight and parallel before I cut? Or should I proceed to cut my pieces whilst the fabric lies relaxed on my table?
Is it worth it to block the fabric to force the vertical grain lines to be straight and parallel before I cut? Or should I proceed to cut my pieces whilst the fabric lies relaxed on my table?
Posted on: 7/1/20 8:29 PM ET
In reply to mbwndhoufk
You can try blocking... that appears to be a double knit, so I am not sure how well it will do in blocking, but certainly worth a try.
I would be more likely to dampen it thouroughly, give it a good long ride on a cool dryer, and then spread it, still slightly damp to finish drying flat on a table. Peel it up, lay it back down again, let it relax 24 hours, then cut single ply.
I would be more likely to dampen it thouroughly, give it a good long ride on a cool dryer, and then spread it, still slightly damp to finish drying flat on a table. Peel it up, lay it back down again, let it relax 24 hours, then cut single ply.
Posted on: 7/2/20 1:07 PM ET
Greetings,
That looks like a Knit 1/ Purl 1 ribbed knit to me. Super stretchy stitch. Have you tried blocking it with a slightly weighted top layer? Maybe that could help?
That looks like a Knit 1/ Purl 1 ribbed knit to me. Super stretchy stitch. Have you tried blocking it with a slightly weighted top layer? Maybe that could help?
Posted on: 7/3/20 5:21 AM ET
In reply to dotStitch
Quote:
looks like a Knit 1/ Purl 1 ribbed knit to me.
looks like a Knit 1/ Purl 1 ribbed knit to me.
That's what I say too.
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