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Member since 9/5/20
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Posted on: 10/24/20 3:24 PM ET
Hello everyone. I’ve been sewing for years but have had only limited success with getting pants to fit exactly right. Can I hear an Amen to that!?

On my pattern the front rise needs to be shortened 1 1/2” but the back only needs to be shortened 1”. My understanding is that I have to take the same amount from both front and back so that the side seams will still match up. If I do that the back will be too short.

Any advice?

Thanks!

  
Member since 3/24/04
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Posted on: 10/24/20 3:32 PM ET
In reply to ZeldaF
Many, many of us have "tilted waists", but patterns are generally drawn as if waists were parallel to the floor. So... what you're going to do is remove the inch of height at the back waist and the extra half inch at the center front waist, tapering to nothing at the side seam. That way, the side seams still match and should hang straight.

You probably want to make the same change on skirt waists.
  
Member since 9/5/20
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Posted on: 10/24/20 4:01 PM ET
In reply to kayl
Kayl, Thanks for your reply. I’m not sure I understand since the front rise needs a total 1 1/2” removed. Do you mean pinch a 3/4” fold? Also, I’m assuming you would have me use the pivot method for both front and back so the side seams remain intact. Plus, there’s a welt pocket cut out on the CF that will have to be moved.

Thanks for taking the time to respond.
  
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Posted on: 10/24/20 4:09 PM ET
In reply to ZeldaF
You are taking 1" across the back, so the back side seam is 1" shorter, correct? If you do that on the front also, the front will still be 1/2" too long. Remove that 1/2" at CF only, tapering to nothing at the side seam, and the side seams will still match.

Any other details from the waist area like darts or pockets, will need to be redrawn in the new, lower position. Zipper plackets will also need to be lowered, or shortened.
  
Member since 8/15/04
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Posted on: 10/24/20 6:08 PM ET
In reply to ZeldaF
To removed the extra half inch from the front:

Draw a line across the front of the pants pattern parallel to the grain line above the curve. Below this line, make a mark on the side seam one inch below this line and 1.5 inches below the line at the center front. The second line drawn will be on an angle. Lower the top portion of the pattern down to this line. The side seams should match but the center front will be 1.5 inches lower than the original pattern. True the center front line and the side seams.

Or, above the curve, you can remove an inch on the front as described above, then draw a second line above this alteration and place a mark 1/2 inch below it on the center front. Cut the line across the pattern but not through the side seam. Pivot the top portion of the pattern down to the mark and tape it. You are removing a wedge of fabric with the second alteration to lower the center front the extra 1/2 inch.
  
Member since 12/28/04
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Posted on: 10/24/20 6:27 PM ET
In reply to ZeldaF
No you do not, but you have to have the side seams the same length. I have a lower center front than my back. You need to mark a pivot point on the side seam. You draw a line from cf to side seam. Cut to the side seam, cut in from the outside to make a hinge. Don't cut through, leave a small piece of paper. I use a piece of tape over the pivot point to strengthen it. Overlap the cf the amount you need to shorten. This leaves the side seams the same length. I'd also plan on making a couple of muslins. Circumference alone cannot get you a good fit. I also suggest that you add horizontal balance lines either at the shorten lengthen line or mid and high hip. Front and back add these to your muslin and mark them and the grainlines on your muslin. This makes it much easier to fit yourself. If your HBLs are not parallel to the floor you know what where you have to alter.
------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
  
Member since 9/5/20
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Posted on: 10/24/20 7:23 PM ET
Thank you all so much for your answers to my question. I think I understand now. Apparently, I was trying to make it harder than it needs to be!
  
Member since 10/2/13
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Posted on: 10/25/20 12:24 PM ET
Since my waistline geometry keeps changing and fabrics drape differently, I sew the CB and CF seams and baste the side seams.
Then I wear elastic around my waist for a while to let it “settle” and try on the pants, adjusting the drape so everything hangs nicely, and pin to the elastic at the seams and a few other places. This marks the waistline.
Then I can remove the side basting and add pockets, etc.
  
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