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Moderated by EleanorSews
Posted on: 12/20/20 9:19 PM ET
I made athletic tights that I'm very happy with, but it seems like they would be even better if the inside seams were flat.
I thought about wearing them inside out, but that's pretty unattractive.
Would it be really hard to lay the fabric flat and sew a stretch stitch over the overlap? It seems like it would be really easy on a straight seam, but I'm not sure how I would line up the stitching lines on a curving seam.
Is this possible? Do people do this? Are there tricks for lining up the stitching lines?
I thought about wearing them inside out, but that's pretty unattractive.
Would it be really hard to lay the fabric flat and sew a stretch stitch over the overlap? It seems like it would be really easy on a straight seam, but I'm not sure how I would line up the stitching lines on a curving seam.
Is this possible? Do people do this? Are there tricks for lining up the stitching lines?
Posted on: 12/20/20 9:36 PM ET
In reply to superm
How big is the seam? Your isea would probably work. Before I had a serger I zigzagged close to the seam and trimmed it back.
Posted on: 12/20/20 9:41 PM ET
In reply to Marie367
It's a quarter inch seam allowance, so a total width of 1/2 inch overlapping.
Posted on: 12/20/20 10:03 PM ET
In reply to superm
You could do it, if you want. If I wanted to do that, and my seam allowance was 5/8ths of an inch, then I would thread trace with hand needle and thread, (or even chalk maybe) 5/8ths of an inch in from the seams. Then lay one on top of the other, keeping on folding the top one back over and over again as I did that, to check and make sure my thread tracings lined up, top and bottom. You could also stick a pin in them (straight down) and make sure it came out in the right place, on the thread tracing on the underside of fabric too. Then I would pin and then hand baste the 2 together. Then when I sewed on top, (with no pins in it then) I would make sure to sew right over the top thread tracing, or pick it out as you get to it. Then I guess you could cut off any excess hanging out of the sides, with scissor, top and bottom afterwards. You could try on a scrap and see if you like it any better. It would be two layers of fabric then, not 3, in the seams. Not sure a single pass with a "stretch stitch" would always be enough to hold it though, (for forever) particular if the crotch seam and they were rather tight. So, if you want to do that, I think one of the stretch stitches used on them, probably should be that triple stretch straight stitch, just since it's probably the strongest one. That one, does not "pick out" of stretchy fabric all that well though, without often leaving holes in the fabric though, so it would probably be sort of a "one shot try" if using that stitch sequence on a knit someplace. Or, maybe you could use the triple straight stretch stitch in a seam like normal with seam allowance on the outside. Press open and back the allowances, each to their own side and then sew over them with some stitch. It would still be two layers of fabric then, and not 3 anyplace. And smoother inside than outside. On the ones in the stores, they use a whole different kind of machine, (not a sewing machine or an overlocker) called flat seamer machine, but those are real big and super expensive.
Posted on: 12/21/20 8:05 AM ET
When I saw your question, I quickly thought of an IG post just last night about this very thing. There's a great blogger in Sweden who has written much about sewing athletic wear and she posted a video on her YouTube channel about how to sew a seam like this -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxU-NS8Pecg. It might apply to what you're asking. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 12/21/20 12:22 PM ET
In reply to beauturbo
I saw some online tutorials for the version you suggested of pressing open the allowances (though they did it on the inside, because it was decorative, not comfort), then sewing over with a fancy, stretchy stitch. That looked great, but my fabric is heavy poly spandex that doesn't press.
I'll have to play around. The thread tracing would definitely work. While I was laying in bed last night thinking about sewing (as one does), I thought about using quarter-inch wide Wonder Tape as follows:
place even with the edge on the top of the bottom fabric layer, and even with the stitching line on the bottom of the top fabric layer, butt the Wonder Tape edges against each other, and sew.
You're probably right about the stretch stitch not holding, and triple stretch is awful to pick out. I would have to be very certain about the seams. But I could sew triple stretch on each edge of the lap--using a topstitch foot, say. That would be three passes for each seam, but a lifetime of comfort.
I'll have to play around. The thread tracing would definitely work. While I was laying in bed last night thinking about sewing (as one does), I thought about using quarter-inch wide Wonder Tape as follows:
place even with the edge on the top of the bottom fabric layer, and even with the stitching line on the bottom of the top fabric layer, butt the Wonder Tape edges against each other, and sew.
You're probably right about the stretch stitch not holding, and triple stretch is awful to pick out. I would have to be very certain about the seams. But I could sew triple stretch on each edge of the lap--using a topstitch foot, say. That would be three passes for each seam, but a lifetime of comfort.
Posted on: 12/21/20 12:25 PM ET
In reply to Moose Sky
Thanks! That's the tutorial I saw! It looks lovely.
Doesn't work for my fabric, which is unpressable, so there's no good way to keep the SA open while sewing. Though I suppose Wonder Tape might work for that . . . .
Doesn't work for my fabric, which is unpressable, so there's no good way to keep the SA open while sewing. Though I suppose Wonder Tape might work for that . . . .
Posted on: 12/21/20 8:57 PM ET
I played around, and it turns out that my stitch in the ditch foot keeps the seam allowances flat and open, even though I can't press them open with an iron. Stitching in the ditch of the seam from the wrong side worked well. It worked on both curved and straight seams.
Thanks, all!
Thanks, all!
Posted on: 12/23/20 6:27 AM ET
I have a serger but also prefer very flat seams on my undies when I sew them. I use a straight stitch first and then a triple zigzag stitch. Then it is pressed to the side. I find it lays really flat and is very comfortable. This is on 1/4 inch seams. I stretch the first straight stitch seam just ever so slightly, really just a little. The second stitch has three stitche in each zig and zag and is very strong and stretchy and flat.
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