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Member since 11/15/07
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Posted on: 5/8/21 10:55 AM ET
I need some help fitting a blouse pattern. I put together a muslin, making the following changes based on past experience:

1. Shortened 3”. (I don’t usually shorten that much, but I was converting it from a tunic to a hip length.)
2. Round back adjustment 3/4”
3. Forward shoulder 3/8” inch

The muslin is actual muslin but the pattern is meant to be sewn in a drapier fabric, so that may affect the way it hangs.

Now the front is hanging much lower than the back and the side seam is deviating somewhat toward the back. I’m not sure how to correct these problems. Thanks for any advice!
  
Member since 11/15/07
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Posted on: 5/8/21 10:55 AM ET
Photo
  
Member since 3/24/04
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Posted on: 5/8/21 11:15 AM ET
In reply to dr. liz
Hard to make out in the photo, but take it off and draw horizontal and vertical grainlines on front and back at CF, CB, and at least bust, waist and high hip positions. When you put it back on, the grainline markings will tell you where things are going off.
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 5/8/21 12:25 PM ET
Is there a bust dart? You appear to have fabric pointing out just below bust level. If you take that up in a dart, it likely will pull up the front hem.
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Who knew being a Granny was the best thing ever?
  
Member since 5/28/11
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Posted on: 5/8/21 1:24 PM ET
In reply to dr. liz
A round back and a forward shoulder? You might be canceling each other out. Try doing just the round back first.
  
Member since 7/13/07
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Posted on: 5/8/21 1:27 PM ET
In reply to Marie367
They do not cancel each other out.
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"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
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Member since 11/15/07
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Posted on: 5/8/21 3:01 PM ET
Here are some additional pictures, after adding the truing lines Kayl suggested. I drew in the line for the bust from the pattern, but it’s about an inch below my own bust apex. I’m a petite, about 5’2”, and although I shortened the length, I didn’t shorten the armscye, although I thought about it. That would have pulled up the bust apex closer to where it should be. But the horizontal lines start to dip at the bust level. Or maybe I actually should go down a size? I wasn’t sure about what size to choose.
  
Member since 3/24/04
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Posted on: 5/8/21 3:06 PM ET
In reply to dr. liz
No photo that I can see yet, but I would note that if you sew the exact same pattern from a crisp fabric like muslin, a medium drape fabric like a pinwale corduroy and a very drapey fabric like crinkle rayon, and the medium drape looks perfect, the crisp fabric garment will look big, while the drapey fabric one will look cheaply cut.
  
Member since 11/15/07
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Posted on: 5/8/21 3:14 PM ET
2nd photo. Sorry, the lines don’t show up very well.
  
Member since 11/15/07
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Posted on: 5/8/21 3:15 PM ET
2nd photo.
-- Edited on 5/8/21 at 3:16 PM ET --
  
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