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Posted on: 6/21/21 2:08 PM ET
My well-fitted slacks pattern has a very long back crotch extension because I am quite “thick” from front to back. This long crotch extension makes it difficult to place the pattern on fabric without wasting a lot of the fabric.
What would happen if I were to piece the crotch extension, as shown by the red line in the sketch below? I know I would have to make sure the grain lines are the same. Has anyone else tried this? How did it work? Are there pitfalls that I should be alert to?
Rats! Photo posting issues…
Thanks for any suggestions!
Marty S
-- Edited on 6/21/21 at 2:10 PM ET --
What would happen if I were to piece the crotch extension, as shown by the red line in the sketch below? I know I would have to make sure the grain lines are the same. Has anyone else tried this? How did it work? Are there pitfalls that I should be alert to?
Rats! Photo posting issues…
Thanks for any suggestions!
Marty S
-- Edited on 6/21/21 at 2:10 PM ET --
Posted on: 6/21/21 2:27 PM ET
I used this technique before when I wanted to squeeze shorts from a remnant. Don't forget your seam allowances on both pieces. I used 1/4", sewed it together and then superimposed the sewn piece on the pattern to verify it. Good luck.
Posted on: 6/21/21 2:34 PM ET
In reply to Marty S
that patch is a standard way to get pants out of narrow fabrics from back in the day when most yardgoods for home sewers was only 45 inches wide and sometimes even 36 inches wide.
this is how I've always done it:
1. cut out all the pants pieces without worrying about the piecing. Let the crotch extension you'll need to piece hang off of the selvage leaving the selvage in place on the fabric for the back.
2. Use two large scrap of fabric left over from cutting out the pants for the patch. Match fabric grainlines on the patch to the main pants backs. Easiest is to use scraps with intact selvadges and match them to the crotch extensions.
3. Sew each over-sized patch, right sides together to the two pants back pieces with a seam line far enough from the selvage on the pants pieces that you can trim the seam down to get rid of the selvedges.
4. Finish the edge of the seam, press the seam allowances to the side and press the patch piece flat toward the inseam of the back pants piece.
5. Put your pattern back on top of the pants back and cut the crotch extension patch to match the pattern .
Whew! I hope that makes sense - basically you're adding a big piece of patch fabric to the crotch extension and then recutting that area of the pants backs. It's very easy to do, won't show unless you're doing some interesting acrobatics and most of the patch will actually disappear into the seam allowances.
Don't try to make a piece of fabric to exactly make the patch and then sew it onto your pants backs, you'll go nuts.
Probably in the time it's taken me to write this someone posted a picture or two!
this is how I've always done it:
1. cut out all the pants pieces without worrying about the piecing. Let the crotch extension you'll need to piece hang off of the selvage leaving the selvage in place on the fabric for the back.
2. Use two large scrap of fabric left over from cutting out the pants for the patch. Match fabric grainlines on the patch to the main pants backs. Easiest is to use scraps with intact selvadges and match them to the crotch extensions.
3. Sew each over-sized patch, right sides together to the two pants back pieces with a seam line far enough from the selvage on the pants pieces that you can trim the seam down to get rid of the selvedges.
4. Finish the edge of the seam, press the seam allowances to the side and press the patch piece flat toward the inseam of the back pants piece.
5. Put your pattern back on top of the pants back and cut the crotch extension patch to match the pattern .
Whew! I hope that makes sense - basically you're adding a big piece of patch fabric to the crotch extension and then recutting that area of the pants backs. It's very easy to do, won't show unless you're doing some interesting acrobatics and most of the patch will actually disappear into the seam allowances.
Don't try to make a piece of fabric to exactly make the patch and then sew it onto your pants backs, you'll go nuts.
Probably in the time it's taken me to write this someone posted a picture or two!
Posted on: 6/21/21 2:43 PM ET
In reply to m/m
excellent instructions. the only thing I would add is you also need to make sure your crotch extension remains hidden in your crotch...so you need to check positioning and see fairly exactly where the seam is going to fall. Ideally, you want it to remain between your legs. It also depends on your fabric...on some fabric you can have the seam running down the center of your leg and no one will notice...or other fabrics, the smaller the patch and the more it stays hidden, the better.
Posted on: 6/21/21 3:02 PM ET
In reply to m/m
👍🏻This is exactly how I do it, and it works very well. Your description is very good. Cut everything but the last few inches of crotch extension (rough cut that area), piece the extension, then go back and cut the extension. This method saves a lot of fabric and I don’t even notice the piecing afterwards.
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Canada Plant Hardiness Zone 5b
USDA Zone 4
USDA Zone 4
Posted on: 6/21/21 3:21 PM ET
In reply to RetaSews
Thank you!
Posted on: 6/21/21 3:22 PM ET
In reply to m/m
m/m,
Your very complete description makes total sense. Thank you for taking the time to post all the details.
Your very complete description makes total sense. Thank you for taking the time to post all the details.
Posted on: 6/21/21 3:24 PM ET
In reply to bcch
Yes, I do expect that the seam of the patch will be in a hidden area.
Unless I am doing gymnastics. Right. That’s not going to happen!
Unless I am doing gymnastics. Right. That’s not going to happen!
Posted on: 6/21/21 3:25 PM ET
In reply to mhk
Thanks for the confirmation.
Posted on: 6/21/21 3:34 PM ET
In reply to Marty S
Thank you.
Also you can do the same thing when making flared or full skirts and the fabric isn't quite wide enough for the final flare near the hemline.
It comes in handy for things like long formal gowns with very full skirts.
Also you can do the same thing when making flared or full skirts and the fabric isn't quite wide enough for the final flare near the hemline.
It comes in handy for things like long formal gowns with very full skirts.
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