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Member since 10/22/18
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Posted on: 10/6/21 12:12 PM ET
Just curious about the terminology used for the suggested fabrics on the pattern I am working on. Is this confusing for anyone else or is it just missing a colon after jersey? Aren't they all jerseys?
"Any weight stretch knit fabric can be used but best results on fit will be achieved using light or medium weights such as jersey, silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, bamboo spandex, modal etc. At least 40% stretch is required to get the fit as designed."

This is informative it makes a suggestion regarding weight and stretch ratio for the best fit. I understand the term jersey is commonly used for cotton and cotton blends these days and it also refers to synthetic fibres.

Would it be more correct to say;
For best results use light or medium weight jerseys with at least 40% stretch e.g. cotton, silk, rayon, bamboo, polyester or cotton blends.
or Do they mean jerseys such as; silk satin with elastine, silk jersey with elastine, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, bamboo spandex, modal etc.
in which case are they not suggesting cotton?

How would you read the suggested fabrics in quotes. Is it correct. What might you write instead?

  
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Posted on: 10/6/21 1:44 PM ET
Jersey can be of any fiber so the way they worded it is awkward. They seem to be saying the pattern is best for a drapey single knit (jersey), probably with some spandex, and at least 40% stretch would be best for the style, although I’m not sure why silk satin with elastane was included as I think of a woven when I think of satin...
Cotton jersey might work if it’s a drapey cotton jersey with enough stretch. The jersies listed are drapier than cotton jersey tends to be.

Depending on the style of the pattern, a less drapey cotton jersey might work but you may or may have to have to add some ease... I always use 1” side seams with knits just in case because some knits just need a little more ease than others.
-- Edited on 10/6/21 at 1:46 PM ET --
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Posted on: 10/6/21 2:00 PM ET
In reply to Speech girl
Thanks for the explanation. I have made the pattern up in cotton jersey with 3% elastane and it has worked out OK. It has the required amount of stretch. I assumed cotton jersey was included in the suggested fabrics. I actually took the side seams in on account of cotton having less drape. If I were to make it in a drapey jersey I might not adjust the side seams and just let the fabric drape. It can be quite hard for the beginner to analyse what is meant. I have only worked with a few double knits previously.

I did talk to the pattern company but I didn't make myself properly understood. They say tri-blend jersey and knub jersey could be used too.
Edited to say I think I have understood the pattern's suggestions now. I think they mean any lightweight or medium weight knit with at least 40% stretch such as jersey, lightweight sweater knit, interlock etc. Specific examples might be silk with elastane, rayon, DBP etc.
-- Edited on 10/6/21 at 2:27 PM ET --
  
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Posted on: 10/6/21 8:11 PM ET
In reply to sewing4therapy
I’m glad the cotton jersey worked out! The more you sew with knits, the more you will start to just know which knit will work with which style. It can help to look at what fabrics ready to wear uses for certain styles.

Knits do behave differently from each other, even when they are made from the same fibers—I’ve worked with rayon Lycra jerseys that have draped beautifully and skimmed the body with no cling, some that were horribly clingy and one terrible rayon Lycra jersey that grew 9 inches and pilled after it was sewn into a dress!
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Posted on: 10/6/21 10:09 PM ET
In reply to Speech girl
Thanks for the warning. I am getting the idea
  
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Posted on: 10/6/21 10:55 PM ET
I have come to a point where I must be absolutely certain in my mind's eye how each fabric will fall against each part of my body! If, I can't imagine how it will float over my hips, or my layers in different places, or drape against my bust, or hang from my shoulders, I don't buy it. Bottom line is that a knit fabric-any knit fabric must do each of those places nicely.
  
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Posted on: 10/7/21 8:33 AM ET
Linda Lee has a wonderful book out on sewing knits with great descriptions of the various knits and clear pics. It is called "Sewing Knits from Fit to Finish. "

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/
  
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Posted on: 10/7/21 12:08 PM ET
In reply to solosmocker
Thanks for the recommendation. I have ordered it. I think I need it.
  
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Posted on: 10/11/21 1:23 PM ET
Thanks for your comments.
I have bought the book sewing knits from Fit to Finish by Linda Lee and having googled various piece of information could I check that I have this right now. The term jersey can be used in different contexts which has confused me.

When fabric suggestions say; stretch knit fabrics only - jersey, interlock, stretch sweatshirt fleece, stretch French terry knit, sweater knit etc. In this context jersey means any fibre or combinations of fibres e.g. cotton, or cotton blends e.g. cotton/elastane or cotton/rayon. Blends are usually natural fibres blended with synthetic fibres.

When fabric suggestions say; for all knit fabrics e.g. jersey, modal, DBP, rayon spandex etc. Jersey in this context means jersey usually cotton without elastane/spandex/lycra

Have I understood correctly now.
  
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Posted on: 10/11/21 1:34 PM ET
In reply to sewing4therapy
I know that there are different descriptions of fabrics in different countries. For example, the word ‘elastane’ isn’t used in the US - it’s spandex.

Linda Lee is probably an excellent resource because her daughter works (or worked) on Berwick Street in London so she knows American and British terminology.
  
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