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Which one? (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 2/14/06 4:14 PM ET
My tops are never long enough, but how do you know where to lengthen? I notice there are two lengthen/shorten lines on a lot of patterns--one above the waist and one below. Could somebody clarify this for me.
(I do have a long torso--a lot of room above the bust, and a lot fo room below)
(I do have a long torso--a lot of room above the bust, and a lot fo room below)
Posted on: 2/14/06 4:26 PM ET
Hi Lori,
I'm not positive about this, but I think the 'lengthen shorten' line that is above the waist is meant to be for the bodice, and the line below the waist is for the lower part, be a skirt or pants.
Where you lengthen the pattern can affect other parts of the fit, as most of us have learned the hard way somewhere along the line, lol.
So I'd venture to say you'd need to add length in the line above the waist. I"m sure more experienced folks will chime in.
Tara
I'm not positive about this, but I think the 'lengthen shorten' line that is above the waist is meant to be for the bodice, and the line below the waist is for the lower part, be a skirt or pants.
Where you lengthen the pattern can affect other parts of the fit, as most of us have learned the hard way somewhere along the line, lol.
So I'd venture to say you'd need to add length in the line above the waist. I"m sure more experienced folks will chime in.
Tara
Posted on: 2/14/06 4:59 PM ET
I have the opposite problem. I divide the amount I need to shorten between the two places.
If you need to add 2 inches to the length of your top add on inch to each shorten/lengthen line. But first check to be sure the waist as marked on the pattern still sits at your waist. You may find that to keep the pattern's waist at the right place you have to adjust how much you add to each line.
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If you need to add 2 inches to the length of your top add on inch to each shorten/lengthen line. But first check to be sure the waist as marked on the pattern still sits at your waist. You may find that to keep the pattern's waist at the right place you have to adjust how much you add to each line.
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Living life to the fullest.
Who knew being a Granny was the best thing ever?
Who knew being a Granny was the best thing ever?
Posted on: 2/14/06 7:38 PM ET
Lori,
Pattern usually has waist line marked. Transfer it to your muslin. Then tie elastic around your waist and mark where elastic hits side seams. Or, you can pin paper pattern to your underwear and do the same. If your waist is lower than pattern waist, measure for how much and add that much above the waist. Now, look at your bust darts. They should end about 1/2" before high bust points. If your darts are too high, then add needed length above the dart. If they are fine, add the length below dart but above waist.
If your waist was fine, then add length below the waist. Hope I am making sense here.
Another way to do it is by measurements. For example, my high bust measurement is 1" less than that on the envelope, front length is 2" less, back lengh is 2.5" less. Therefore, I shorten my patterns 1" above bust dart, another 1" between bust dart and waist, do same 2 tucks at the back, and do a 1/2" sway back tuck at the back. It usually works w/o making a muslin. Though I shorten instead of lengthening, principal is the same. Thing to remember, if you are lengthening above the bust dart, it will change the armhole and you will need to redraw it.
Natasha
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Pattern usually has waist line marked. Transfer it to your muslin. Then tie elastic around your waist and mark where elastic hits side seams. Or, you can pin paper pattern to your underwear and do the same. If your waist is lower than pattern waist, measure for how much and add that much above the waist. Now, look at your bust darts. They should end about 1/2" before high bust points. If your darts are too high, then add needed length above the dart. If they are fine, add the length below dart but above waist.
If your waist was fine, then add length below the waist. Hope I am making sense here.
Another way to do it is by measurements. For example, my high bust measurement is 1" less than that on the envelope, front length is 2" less, back lengh is 2.5" less. Therefore, I shorten my patterns 1" above bust dart, another 1" between bust dart and waist, do same 2 tucks at the back, and do a 1/2" sway back tuck at the back. It usually works w/o making a muslin. Though I shorten instead of lengthening, principal is the same. Thing to remember, if you are lengthening above the bust dart, it will change the armhole and you will need to redraw it.
Natasha
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Posted on: 2/14/06 7:53 PM ET
In reply to Nata
Thanks so much everybody. I do have to lower my bust point at times, and lengthen below the waist. Thanks again. It is much more clear. :)
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