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Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952
Posted on: 4/27/06 9:09 PM ET
The pattern I am using is New Look 6407New Look Patterns I need to add an FBA. The pattern has a side bust dart and front darts. I am assuming it's sized for a B cup and I'm a D, so I am planning to add 2" to the bust dart. My question is, if I don't want that big of a dart on the side, can I add the dart and then rotate out an inch or so into the front dart? Will that work? My second question is about using a fabric with stretch. Is there a general rule of thumb how much to decrease the pattern by to accomodate the stretch, or do I make it as if the material has no stretch and then take it in as I go? I hope these questions make sense. Thanks for any help.
-- Edited on 4/27/06 9:09 PM --
-- Edited on 4/27/06 9:09 PM --
Posted on: 4/27/06 11:08 PM ET
In reply to Susan C
You have the right idea with rotating out some of the dart. I also think you don't need to worry about taking out extra ease until you fit. The reviews I've read about this pattern say that it has a snug fit, so you may not really need to take out so much.
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"Cultivate your curves. They may be dangerous, but they won't be avoided."
-Mae West
"I like big butts and I cannot lie."
-Sir Mix-a-lot
-Mae West
"I like big butts and I cannot lie."
-Sir Mix-a-lot
Posted on: 4/28/06 8:46 AM ET
Your dart solution should work; however, that dart sounds very big to me. I am a D and I usually only increase the B dart by 3/4", even less in knits.
Posted on: 4/28/06 8:57 AM ET
In reply to Susan C
When you say that you are planning a 2" FBA, is this amount taken from measurements or just an estimate? As a F cup, I usually have to do a large dart (1 1/2"-2" on average) but to determine how much, I check the finished full bust measurement and compare to my own numbers. I then add what I need to make them match and add ease through the FBA. If your 2" is done in some similar fashion than go for it.
WRT the fabric, I would not take any ease out for the stretch as it probably does not have any huge amount of stretch in it as compared to a knit. The amount of lycra in such woven fabrics is more for wearing comfort than any stretch comfort. If you need to take it in, I would do it at the s.s. after a pin fit session.
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WRT the fabric, I would not take any ease out for the stretch as it probably does not have any huge amount of stretch in it as compared to a knit. The amount of lycra in such woven fabrics is more for wearing comfort than any stretch comfort. If you need to take it in, I would do it at the s.s. after a pin fit session.
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Like Miss Frizzle says "Take chances, make mistakes ..." isn't that what fitting is all about? I am happily taking chances and making mistakes as I fit muslin after muslin ...
newmansneedle.blogspot.com
newmansneedle.blogspot.com
Posted on: 4/28/06 11:02 AM ET
In reply to Susan C
Susan I just finished my FBA (D cup) on this blouse this morning and have it cut out ready to sew. I purchased Sandra Betzina's book and she mentioned that for the big 4 companies buy by high bust and for New Look, Burda etc buy by full bust. After reading the snug fit reviews I decided to experiment with her theory. I made a muslin in size 14 for high bust and size 16 for full bust. Size 14 would have required a huge FBA and the back was also to tight. The 16 the back fit better and I did 1/2" FBA I also needed to lower the vertical darts and found that the size 14 darts were just the right amount lower for me. I also lowered the darts in the back I'm tall and they hit to high. You might want to try the muslins and see if the full bust theory works for you as well. My muslin came out as a nice fit.
Posted on: 4/28/06 2:33 PM ET
Thanks all, I don't know what I was thinking on the 2". I'm glad I said something before I altered. Isn't there a rule of thumb of 1/2" per cup size? Does anyone remember? Anyway, I will be a somewhere between a 3/4" to 1" FBA. Quite a bit of difference from 2"....
Posted on: 4/28/06 2:33 PM ET
In reply to Cinsie
OOh, thanks so much for sharing your experience. I'll plan accordingly.
Posted on: 4/28/06 2:41 PM ET
In reply to Susan C
There is no rule of thumb (or bust
) you just add what you need. When there are no standards in sizes out there, don't confine yourself to set numbers, just do what you have to.
I just did up a Hot Patterns dress bodice in a Glamour Girl 12 and only had to add 1". Smallest FBA I have ever done!
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) you just add what you need. When there are no standards in sizes out there, don't confine yourself to set numbers, just do what you have to.I just did up a Hot Patterns dress bodice in a Glamour Girl 12 and only had to add 1". Smallest FBA I have ever done!
------
Like Miss Frizzle says "Take chances, make mistakes ..." isn't that what fitting is all about? I am happily taking chances and making mistakes as I fit muslin after muslin ...
newmansneedle.blogspot.com
newmansneedle.blogspot.com
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