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when to add, when to not add? (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 6/2/06 9:42 AM ET
Recently I had my measurements taken by a professional dressmaker; something I do every few years. My center back, with the tape dropped down to my waist level, has always been 17 inches, although when I was measured it was 18.25. The woman included my sway back, but my thinking is I'd include the extra length only if I'm making a swimsuit or something that would be fitted in that area.
So my question is, how many of you use the full center back measurement if you have a sway back, no matter what you make? My thinking is you would use it when you have a fitting dart in the back bodice. But if you were making a T-shirt or jacket without that dart, you wouldn't use it and instead use the first measurement.
I've never come across this before, so that's why I'm asking.
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So my question is, how many of you use the full center back measurement if you have a sway back, no matter what you make? My thinking is you would use it when you have a fitting dart in the back bodice. But if you were making a T-shirt or jacket without that dart, you wouldn't use it and instead use the first measurement.
I've never come across this before, so that's why I'm asking.

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Posted on: 6/2/06 10:11 AM ET
I don't include it, for the reasons you mentioned.
And actually, the swayback adjustments I've seen in books call for shortening the center back in that area, not lengthening.
Having said that, the increased length you're seeing could also be from a rounder back, or weight gained in the upper back.
And actually, the swayback adjustments I've seen in books call for shortening the center back in that area, not lengthening.
Having said that, the increased length you're seeing could also be from a rounder back, or weight gained in the upper back.
Posted on: 6/2/06 12:49 PM ET
I agree - using the measurement with sway back included will defeat the purpose.
I never heard of taking two different back length measurements. I wonder why one would need that second measurement. As I know, I put the top end of the measuring tape on the top vertebra (sp) and hold it taught to the top end of the waist tape.
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I never heard of taking two different back length measurements. I wonder why one would need that second measurement. As I know, I put the top end of the measuring tape on the top vertebra (sp) and hold it taught to the top end of the waist tape.
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We love our fabrics at www.SawyerBrook.com
Posted on: 6/3/06 1:22 AM ET
The sway back adjustment takes place below the waist. I'm confused about how a back waist length measurement would include any extra length for this.
Posted on: 6/3/06 7:32 AM ET
In reply to sewdance
That's the purpose of my question. Before, I'd let the tape drop down to the waist, and use that as my Back Waist measurement. But when I was measured recently, I was measured all the way down my spine and my back is very curved. I can understand your comment but I also know that with the difference in measurements, my back is bowed.
If I were to use Patternmaker software, the measurement calls for the longer length. If I were to use a pattern, it doesn't. What would be your suggestion? Should I use the Back Waist measurement that goes down my spine or where the tape falls at my waist? Or should I use one or the other specifically for the pattern I'm using?
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If I were to use Patternmaker software, the measurement calls for the longer length. If I were to use a pattern, it doesn't. What would be your suggestion? Should I use the Back Waist measurement that goes down my spine or where the tape falls at my waist? Or should I use one or the other specifically for the pattern I'm using?
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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine
SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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Posted on: 6/4/06 5:46 AM ET
In reply to Miss Fairchild
Quote:
Should I use the Back Waist measurement that goes down my spine or where the tape falls at my waist? Or should I use one or the other specifically for the pattern I'm using?
Should I use the Back Waist measurement that goes down my spine or where the tape falls at my waist? Or should I use one or the other specifically for the pattern I'm using?
FWIW (my 2 cents
) I think if you are making a fitted/semi-fitted garment, like a dress with a defined waist seam, use the measurement that follows your actual spine. If you're making a jacket, loose-ish tee top, etc. --- something that will more or less fall from the outermost part of your back curve, use the dropped meaurement that you've always used.------
iPad's auto-correct is my enema.
Posted on: 6/4/06 6:34 PM ET
In reply to sewdance
I make 2 "tucks" for sway back: one above the waist, and one below.
I would use the shorter measurement most of the time. I would only use the actual spine measurement for something very figure hugging. If you have time, you might want to make a couple of fitted shell muslins using different measurement, and compare the fit.
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I would use the shorter measurement most of the time. I would only use the actual spine measurement for something very figure hugging. If you have time, you might want to make a couple of fitted shell muslins using different measurement, and compare the fit.
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We love our fabrics at www.SawyerBrook.com
Posted on: 6/6/06 10:20 AM ET
I just came online to to add a new post related to this very same question, so I'm glad to see the topic being discussed.
Here's a twist, though: When making a muslin, I like to mark with a sharpie the lengthwise grainline and the waist line. But I never know where to mark the waist line. I have a, shall we say, mega sway back. If a vertical line from the floor were to skim the fullest part of my backside, the the horiziontal difference to my waist is 2.5".
So imagine a muslin made from a standard pattern. And imagine I poke my finger in at the center back at so that my finger is touching my actual wasitline, and then mark it with the sharpie. Then, I remove my finger so that the fabric releases. The mark I just made is now lower than my waistline.
The struggle I've been having is on my flat patterns, where do I mark my waist? It's an important guide post for many different kinds of alterations. After reading the replies here, I guess the answer depends on the style of the top/dress/jacket. However, that sure adds a lot of complexity when transferring fitting alterations to marking the flat patterm. Oh, and did I forget to mention, my natural waistline is not parallel to the floor to being with? Sheesh!!!
I'd love some "rules" I can rely on in any situation. You know, like "make sure the side seams are perpendicular to the floor".
-- Edited on 6/6/06 10:48 AM --
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Here's a twist, though: When making a muslin, I like to mark with a sharpie the lengthwise grainline and the waist line. But I never know where to mark the waist line. I have a, shall we say, mega sway back. If a vertical line from the floor were to skim the fullest part of my backside, the the horiziontal difference to my waist is 2.5".
So imagine a muslin made from a standard pattern. And imagine I poke my finger in at the center back at so that my finger is touching my actual wasitline, and then mark it with the sharpie. Then, I remove my finger so that the fabric releases. The mark I just made is now lower than my waistline.
The struggle I've been having is on my flat patterns, where do I mark my waist? It's an important guide post for many different kinds of alterations. After reading the replies here, I guess the answer depends on the style of the top/dress/jacket. However, that sure adds a lot of complexity when transferring fitting alterations to marking the flat patterm. Oh, and did I forget to mention, my natural waistline is not parallel to the floor to being with? Sheesh!!!
I'd love some "rules" I can rely on in any situation. You know, like "make sure the side seams are perpendicular to the floor".
-- Edited on 6/6/06 10:48 AM --
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Jean
Posted on: 6/6/06 11:02 AM ET
In reply to meanjean
Quote:
I'd love some "rules" I can rely on in any situation. You know, like "make sure the side seams are perpendicular to the floor".
I'd love some "rules" I can rely on in any situation. You know, like "make sure the side seams are perpendicular to the floor".
Those are actually "rules" for skirts and pants. But for waisted dresses, visually you probably want the waist seam to look parallel to the floor even if it isn't.
For fitted blouses, you will do better with back waist darts or princess seams and a center back seam. More places to adjust. No one says, however, that you're limited to only one pair of back waist darts. Use two pairs if that provides a better fit.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
Posted on: 6/6/06 12:01 PM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
Quote: Debbie Cook
Those are actually "rules" for skirts and pants. But for waisted dresses, visually you probably want the waist seam to look parallel to the floor even if it isn't.
Those are actually "rules" for skirts and pants. But for waisted dresses, visually you probably want the waist seam to look parallel to the floor even if it isn't.
Thanks, Debbie. I hadn't realized that, but it makes sense. It's good to know because I'll be making a dress in a few weeks to wear to a wedding in July.
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Jean
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