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Member since 7/3/06
Posts: 41
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Posted on: 8/9/06 0:16 AM ET
I am trying to figure out whether or not I should trim my seams smaller. I am making a lined jacket from a polyester fabric that really frays like the dickens. The jacket has princess seams (to the underarm) and I did the standard
5/8 inch seam allowance. Since all of the seam allowances will soon be covered by lining, I was wondering if I should trim them down. BTW, the seam allowances include non-woven interfacing that is pretty heavy.

Any suggestions? Thanks!
  
Member since 5/8/04
Posts: 957
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Posted on: 8/9/06 0:26 AM ET
The princess seams will lay more flat if you trim them to 3/8". As long as the fabric frays so much I would definitely use a pinking shears to trim the seams. This should be fine as long as you're lining it. I did this with silk dupioni and it worked out well.

Edited to address the nonwoven interfacing. Is the interfacing a fusible or sew-in? If it is a sew-in, trim the interfacing only close to the stitching of the seam to reduce bulk. Then pink the jacket seam allowances to 3/8".
-- Edited on 8/9/06 0:29 AM --
-- Edited on 8/9/06 0:30 AM --
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I feed my soul by the stitches I sew. Bernina 765, Bernina 480, Bernina 1230, Bernina L460, Babylock Euphoria




  
Member since 7/3/06
Posts: 41
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Posted on: 8/9/06 0:34 AM ET
In reply to BeckyC
Thanks for the tips - the interfacing is a fusible.
  
Member since 1/26/03
Posts: 3678
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Posted on: 8/9/06 9:15 AM ET
In reply to Nerys
You may be able to peel the interfacing back using a pin to unstick it to begin with and then tweezers and/or fingers to continue peeling. It's worth doing to get rid of that bulk and stiffness. Misting will probably help loosen the glue. Practice on some scrap fabric first. Iron on the interfacing, sew a seam, then practice prying it apart without shredding your fabric. If it just won't let go it's better to leave it.

Of course removing the interfacing will leave your SA's more vunerable to fraying. I would do a straight stitch at a quarter or three eights from the seam and then pink as close as possible. While the lining will be some protection from fraying it won't stop it as well as the stitching plus pinking. Right now I'm making a lined linen skirt and this is how I'm treating the seams. Next time let's hope both you and I get smarter and finish the cut edges before we sew it all together.
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Buy the best and you only cry once.

  
Member since 7/3/06
Posts: 41
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Posted on: 8/9/06 9:26 AM ET
In reply to Stitchology
I had planned to finish the raw edges first in my next project, but then I realized that I wouldn't be able to trim them if it turned out that I had to take really big seams.

Thanks for your suggestions!
  
Member since 7/11/05
Posts: 3783
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Posted on: 8/9/06 2:02 PM ET
In reply to Nerys
If it's a really shreddy fabric, pinking might not be quite the thing. I'd definitely trim the SAs down, but pinking works best on firmly woven fabrics--like Dupioni, or linen, or cottons with a bit of body.

It might be time to invest in a bottle of Fray Check and apply it to the trimmed down edges, especially if you separate the fusible interfacing, especially if it's a Rayon/poly blend. Rayon is a very weak fiber, even aside from any considerations of weave, and always ravels and shreds at seams and cut edges much more than any other fiber. It just can't help itself. (Among Rayons, though, Tencel seems to have overcome this problem to some degree.)

Otherwise, if it really is shreddy, that fusible may turn out to be your best friend. I'd maybe leave it alone, trim the SAs, then press and pound the bejeesus out of them. (I improvise with a piece of finished wood I got at a thrift store ages ago, since I've yet to buck up and pay full price for a clapper.)
-- Edited on 8/9/06 2:02 PM --
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I am going for a level of perfection that is only mine... Most of the pleasure is in getting that last little piece perfect...Inspiration is for amateurs. The rest of us just keep showing up and doing the work.

Chuck Close, painter, printmaker, photographer

Hope has two lovely daughters: Anger and Courage

St. Augustine
  
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