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Member since 7/2/06
Posts: 91
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Posted on: 8/20/06 9:05 AM ET
I have a 100% polyester knit print that has two-way stretch from selvage to selvage. Absolutely no stretch along the grain. Does the pick a knit rule apply to this fabric? For some reason I have it my mind that the rule applies just to fabrics with grain-oriented stretch.

If it does NOT apply, is the fabric suitable for non-knit patterns? I really want to make a cardigan-style jacket or a skirt but am afraid of sagging or drooping if I don't use a pattern for knits. Thus my dilemma.

Thanks for helping.
Jane

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Member since 7/30/02
Posts: 8991
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Posted on: 8/20/06 9:23 AM ET
Hi Jane. Clothing is usually cut out with the cross-grain (selvage to selvage) going around the body. This is where we need the give / stretch. This applies to wovens as well as knits (since wovens have a touch of give on the cross-grain).

Unless the pattern specifically states that 4-way stretch is required, the pick-a-knit rule is for the cross-grain stretch of your knit. You can look at how the pattern is laid out to verify. If the stretch is not around the body, it won't fit correctly. I know from experience!

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Member since 1/1/03
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Posted on: 8/20/06 10:01 AM ET
You can use this fabric for a woven pattern but you will want to consider going down a size or two, depending on the amount of stretch in your fabric. Since the stretch is cross grain (and I'm assuming you will lay out and cut the pices running lenthwise or with the grain) you don't have to worry about the fabric drooping in length as the fabric doesn't "give" in this direction.

When laying out and cutting remember to find a rib or stitch of the knit and follow it down the length as the grain. Use this as the benchmark for the grain, rather than the selvedges.

To get the best test of the amount of stretch for the pick a knit ruler grab your fabric about 4" from the cut edge and fold it crossgrain. Hold it firmly and stretch it against the ruler to see if it will have the correct amount of stretch for your pattern.

If the fabric snaps back to the original size then the stretch has "good recovery" and will probably wash and wear well, keeping it's shape. If the fabric doesn't spring back all the way to the original size then you have a fabric that might bag out.

HTH!


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Member since 7/2/06
Posts: 91
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Posted on: 8/20/06 1:48 PM ET
The recovery is not terrific. It sort of reluctantly returns to its original size after stretching. So I shouldn't ask it to stretch too much. Which means I can use it as a woven, going down one size or even a half size, right? Sorry I seem so dense. It's hard to think 3 dimensional when your brain feels flat.

Jane

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Member since 11/6/04
Posts: 234
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Posted on: 8/20/06 2:02 PM ET
I find that knits with poor recovery work OK for my DD's who wear very close fitting t shirts.

If sewing such a fabric for myself, a plus petite, I treat it like a woven (think drapey rayon) that is easy to get on because the neckline will stretch.

So it depends on how you want the garment to fit you.

cheers
jean
  
Member since 1/1/03
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Posted on: 8/20/06 3:53 PM ET
I'd pass on using it for a garment or even a muslin, unless you're just testing a detail or feature. It's your work and time and it deserves a good quality fabric.
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Posted on: 8/20/06 4:46 PM ET
I think I agree w/ MaryBeth on this. It is frustrating to make a garment and then have it not hold up. A skirt might bag out in the rear, and a cardigan would bag out in the elbows.

Although I would use it for a muslin, but not one that is too close fitting.

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