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Member since 8/23/04
Posts: 44
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Posted on: 10/29/06 9:24 PM ET
Hi! I am trying to make a costume for my daughter, and I am having problems with the poly lame fabric I chose. I say lame, because is shiny on one side and has some one-way stretch. Either that or you would classify it as stretch satin?? It is a very thin fabric, which makes me think it's lame. Anyway it puckers when I sew it. I have fiddled around with stuff so I have fewer puckers, but nonetheless they're still there. Here is what I am using:

Schmetz size 70/14 needle

Cotton covered polyester thread (what I had on hand)

Tension down to 2 (outside the 3-5 recommended range)

2.5 mm stitch length

Any ideas?
  
Member since 7/11/05
Posts: 3783
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Posted on: 10/29/06 11:07 PM ET
In reply to daff
I've never sewn lame, but when I have trouble with puckering anything, I try placing a strip of tissue along the stitching line, under the fabric, so the feed dogs don't bunch the fabric all up. After the seam is done, the tissue can just be torn away. Some people use strips of adding machine tape instead of tissue.
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I am going for a level of perfection that is only mine... Most of the pleasure is in getting that last little piece perfect...Inspiration is for amateurs. The rest of us just keep showing up and doing the work.

Chuck Close, painter, printmaker, photographer

Hope has two lovely daughters: Anger and Courage

St. Augustine
  
Member since 3/2/04
Posts: 2073
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Posted on: 10/30/06 7:43 AM ET
Also, taut sewing would probably help when sewing the seams.

With really lightweight fabric, there just isn't enough weight pulling behind the needle, so the thread wants to draw the fabric up...aka puckers.

Taut sewing, just in case you've never done it, is when you guide the fabric into the needle [like always], but then use your other hand to pull the fabric/thread slightly, behind the needle. Any lightweight fabric's seams will benefit from this sewing technique.



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Ardis

the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother
  
Member since 6/26/05
Posts: 1148
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Posted on: 10/30/06 7:56 AM ET
A walking foot might also do the job. Or, if it's that lame' that has a sticky, rubbery feel to it, maybe a teflon foot.
  
Member since 3/19/05
Posts: 4069
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Posted on: 10/30/06 9:10 AM ET
Try the narrowest zig zag stitch you can get on your machine. Hope these suggestions help - good luck!
  
Member since 6/15/04
Posts: 106
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Posted on: 10/30/06 9:28 AM ET
When I sewed color guard flags of tissue lame, I had the best luck with a combination of the taut sewing mentioned above and a size 11 microtex needle. Good luck.
-- Edited on 10/30/06 9:28 AM --
-- Edited on 10/30/06 9:28 AM --
  
Member since 6/15/04
Posts: 106
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Posted on: 10/30/06 9:31 AM ET
Somehow , I'm not editting my previous post correctly. I meant a size 11 needle.
  
Member since 8/23/04
Posts: 44
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Posted on: 10/30/06 11:02 AM ET
Thanks so much for all the suggestions! I will try these today!
  
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